San Antonio TX – Part One

On Saturday, January 28, our GPS led us to the sign for Hidden Valley RV Park where we had reservations. An arrow pointed down a dirt road. Reluctantly, we slowly drove along the grated road for 3/4 mile to the RV park while we wondered what we had gotten ourselves into. The wide gravel spots, trees, fishing lake, newly renovated showers, and quiet would make this place ideal for getting away from it all, not for taking in the sights. Fortunately, the owner refunded our money and we moved on finding the San Antonio KOA in town centrally located for what we wanted to do.

Gruene TX

Our first adventure was Gruene (pronounced Green) a historic town near San Antonio where Jon had visited several years ago while working in the area. Our goal was to eat at the Gristmill.

We walked around the town first visiting gift shops, antique stores, junk stores and an outdoor garden shop. The Fickle Pickle offered tastes of their product. One bite and addiction to the crunchy, sweet, and spicy chip of a pickle set in. We bought a jar and as soon as I get home, I’m ordering more online. They are the best pickles ever.

Many stores offer unique art and gift ideas.

We stopped in for a bit to listen to the music at the Gruene Hall, which is believed to be one of the oldest dance halls in the state of Texas.

The Gruene Mansion Inn, once H.D. Gruene’s historic victorian home and cotton plantation, is a bed and breakfast establishment that offers 33 rooms.

On Monday, we watched men, women, and robots, on the assembly line of the Toyota Motor Manufacturing of Texas plant, while truck bodies floated overhead. The tour explains the process of assembly, painting, inspecting, and preparing Toyota Tundras and Tacomas using a just-in-time method. Robots not only assemble or aid the workers in the assembly of the trucks they also deliver parts to the appropriate stations. The tour started out with a movie and safety precautions. Then we all loaded up in trams and donned the provided headphones for listening to the tour guide. The plant employs approximately 7,500 people, 4,000 are Toyota employees and the remainder were onsite vendors that provide parts and accessories and assist with any issues that arise.

No photos are available because purses, backpacks, camera phones, and cameras are not allowed on the tour.

Boerne TX

The historic town of Boerne (pronounced Bernie) was next on our list to explore. German immigrants established the community in the mid-1800s. Antique and gift shops line Haupstrasse (main street) along with plenty of choices for lodging, meals, and drinks in the area. We stopped in at The Dienger Trading Company. Established in 1884, the building has undergone a restoration to honor its original beauty. Inside we found a bakery and bistro, a bookstore, and a boutique. The white walls and subway tiles, wood floors, baseboards, and doorframes, carry through the entire building in a cohesive design. Even the ladies bathroom is a work of art. We took a break from our gawking to enjoy a cup of coffee and a delicious cherry cobbler in the bistro.

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The Dienger Trading Company

A mural on the wall opposite the bathroom doors depicts the history of the building and its owners. The old safe in the alcove gave the place authenticity.

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Original Dienger Safe

This work of art stands near a water feature in a parklike area of natural vegetation.

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Art Work in the Park

At the visitor’s center, we collected a variety of maps and information about other places to visit in the hill country. A short video tells the history of the town’s founding.

Armed with our map, we followed the road to Sister Creek Winery where we tasted their varieties and settled on a bottle of Chardonnay to take home.

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Sister Creek Winery

Next post? Part two of our time in San Antonio.

 

Las Cruces and Mesilla NM, and Alpine and Marfa TX

We hopped on Interstate 10 toward Las Cruces NM on Monday, January 23, 2017. With strong winds forecasted for the night and into the next day, we checked in at the KOA for two nights until we could safely travel. Braving the cold wind the next day, we ventured out to see Fort Selden Monument only to find a “Closed on Monday and Tuesday” sign on the gate. That will teach me to look up places online to check hours of operation.

Ace navigator here, I plotted a route to Peppers New Mexican Cafe & Bar on the Mesilla Plaza for lunch. Somehow the roads did not match the little map I held in my hand so we wound up driving in circles, in and out of historic neighborhoods, up one street, and down another before finally arriving at the plaza. The host at Peppers sat us in the colorful courtyard near the water fountain, giant palms, and ferns.

There are rumors the building is haunted and looking around the place it is easy to see why with the gold framed historic photos, mirrors, low lighting, lace, and red velvet curtains.

After our meal at Peppers, I wanted to walk around Mesilla Plaza to take more pictures, but one shot of the Basilica of San Albino and we ran for the truck to get out of the cold wind. Boy, we sure are a couple of wusses.

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The next morning, Wednesday, January 25,  we left for Alpine anxious to stay at the Lost Alaskan RV Park. We had wanted to stay there last year, but they were all booked up for the Cowboy Poetry event. On our way to Alpine, we stopped at the Prada store that stands alongside US 90 about 1.5 miles for the town of Valentine.

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Prada Marfa Art Installation

Why is a Prada store sitting out there in what seems like the middle of nowhere? It’s not a working store but a sculpture built in 2005 by artists Elmgreen and Dragset. The Department of Transportation designated the installation as a museum in 2014 after a Texas artist vandalized the building. I’m glad it stands as a curiosity on the highway. it would be a shame if it were destroyed or allowed to decay.

Last year I saw love locks attached to a fence behind the building and I was curious to see if they were still there. There weren’t as many as those seen in Lovelock NV behind the courthouse, but it looked like there were more than last year.

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Love Locks Behind Prada Store

A few miles down the road, we saw a white blob off in the distance. What was that big Snoopy looking balloon? Was it tethered to the ground? The wind was pretty fierce so it couldn’t fly. Finding a spot to park on the side of the road while pulling a thirty-foot trailer isn’t an easy task but eventually, we found a spot so I could zoom in to get a closer shot with my camera.

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Tethered Aerostat Radar System

It turns out the object was a tethered aerostat radar system. Having passed through a number of federal agencies over the years, the U.S. Customs and Border Protection assumed responsibility for its funding in 2014. The balloon provides low-level radar surveillance along the southwest border between Mexico and the United States.

The lady who checked us in at The Lost Alaskan RV park warned us about freezing temperatures overnight. We followed the instructions she gave us, but our water hose still froze along with our filter. Lesson learned: Make sure to remove all water from the filter and hose during an overnight freeze. Turning the water off is not sufficient. Duh!

Our son-in-law raved about Marfa TX and encouraged us to stop there. We couldn’t see what was so special when we drove through on our way to Alpine so we decided to give it a closer look the next day. On our way there, we stopped at the Marfa Lights Viewing area. Apparently, people have seen the lights since the 1880s and for years UFOs, ghosts, and other unexplained phenomena were thought to be the cause. Recent scientific research debunked those ideas and attributed the lights to atmospheric reflections of car headlights and campfires. The family of the first man to write about the lights during the 1880s donated the funds to build the viewing area. Around the property are brick kiosks with plaques that tell of the history of Marfa and the surrounding region, making this site an interesting educational stop during the day.

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Marfa Lights Viewing Area

Like most states, Texas offers plenty of plaques along the roadsides, which provide information on historical events that have occurred at that spot or nearby. We stopped at one that described the Paisano Pass, which emigrants used on their way to California. What we couldn’t figure out was why someone had cemented into the ground a ladder over the barbed wire fence. There was no evidence a trail existed there, but perhaps we didn’t look good enough. I wasn’t about to climb over and scout around.

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Ladder Near Paisano Pass Informational Plaque

Once we hit Marfa city limits, Jon slowed the truck and I scouted down each street until we found the one leading to the Presidio County Court House. Churches, hotels, motels, and businesses, including an NPR station, housed in historic buildings, also lined the roads. Art galleries and studios are scattered around Marfa and the town is home to a four-day Marfa Myths Music, Film and Art Fest held in March. I love that counties have preserved the historical character of their courthouses.

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Presidio County Courthouse

A sampling of churches clustered near the courthouse in Marfa TX.

The Hotel Paisano, built in 1930, was used by Warner Brothers during the filming of the movie Giant starring James Dean. The hotel includes a large gift shop where tourists won’t have trouble finding the perfect gift for friends and family.

A few of the buildings in Marfa TX.

We stopped in at Capri for a lunch of the best butternut squash soup we’ve ever tasted served with housemade hearty slices of bread. The restaurant offers many seating options, choose inside in the bar, in the garden, or on the patio.

Our short visit showed us why our son-in-law promotes Marfa with excitement. It is definitely a unique little town with a lot to offer the visitor. Fortunately, another trip is needed to take in the Chinati Foundation and the art galleries. More items to add to our must see list.

Back in Alpine, we walked down West Holland Ave. The Kiowa Gallery has a wide range of photos, paintings, jewelry, clothing, and other art objects for sale.

Looks like the occupants of this Tiny House have everything they need to live off the grid. The vehicle sported Alaska license plates. Were they visiting the Lost Alaskan?

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Tiny House

We could have stayed several more days but rainy weather was forecast so back on the road. Next stop, San Antonio after a night in Del Rio.

Safe Travels.

Benson and Bisbee AZ

Rain threatened while wind buffeted the truck and trailer as we made our way to Benson AZ on Friday, January 20. Fortunately, the rain waited for us to settle into our spot at Butterfield RV Resort and Observatory before the skies let loose a drenching. The rain continued through the night, and on and off the next day, sometimes spitting out hail. Butterfield, with its concrete pad sites and paved roads, was a good place to wait out the weather and catch up on clothes washing.

Last year when we stayed at Butterfield, their wifi did not work. This time my power cord had given out and my battery wasn’t going to last more than an hour or so. I didn’t hold out much hope for replacing the power cord in this rural town, but Keast’s Computer World had a cord that fit my power block. Hurrah! Thank you, Paul Keast, for getting me charged up and running again.

On Sunday, the weather cleared enough to do a little sightseeing in Bisbee AZ about an hour south from Benson. A visit to Bisbee is like going back in time as soon as you pop through the tunnel. Built in a canyon on hills and narrow streets with brick architecture dating from the early 1900s, modern day cars and trucks are out of place. Hand-carved and painted designs ornament the buildings in renaissance, neoclassical, gothic revival, Italianate, and Romanesque revival, some of which are restored to their beauty of an earlier time while others patiently await their transformation.

Street scenes of Bisbee.

Examples of medallions, some painted and some not yet restored.

The post office and Western Bank buildings are across the street from each other.

The old JC Penney store currently stands empty, other stores sport bright fresh colors, while others still need a little tender loving care.

Founded in 1880, the town serves as the county seat for the Cochise County and is a historic example of the old Southwest. Copper, gold, and silver attracted people to the area for mining opportunities and by 1910, the population rose to 9,019, but declined by 1950 to 6,000. Today, the population is estimated at 5,600.

Phelps Dodge Corporation stopped operations of its copper mine in 1975, mayor Chuck Eads and Phelps Dodge combined efforts to develop a mine tour and historic interpretation of a portion of the world-famous Copper Queen Mine to promote tourism as a base for the city’s economy. Thus, Bisbee moved from a mining town to a destination for tourists. For information on the Queen Mine Tour, click here.

After roaming in and out of galleries, an antique store, and a museum, we stopped in at Bisbee Olive Oil where we met Robert Kravitz, an avid rock and roll aficionado. Rock and roll music we remembered from our teens and early twenties played through the speakers, while we browsed through the shop sampling a few of the 60 flavors of olive oil, vinegar, and marinades. A visit to this store is worth the time just to see the framed album covers that decorate the red brick walls. Some of the covers were ones we owned once upon a time, and others were limited editions or U.S. banned covers with risqué themes. Don’t forget to taste the olive oil.

With more than 20 restaurants in town, it was difficult to decide where to have lunch. When in doubt, ask a local. Robert recommended Café Cornucopia and we couldn’t have been happier with our meal and the friendly service.

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Cafe Cornucopia

We stopped in at Optimo Hatworks where all the hats are handmade in the store or from suppliers. Have a hat that needs repair? Contact Optimo.

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Optimo Hatworks

St. Elmo has been in business since 1902, except for prohibition.

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St. Elmo Bar Since 1902

Bisbee is a place to throw off the effects of stress, stroll through town, partake in a beer or wine tasting, tour the Copper Queen Mine, take one of the Lavendar Jeep Tours, or just sit back, put your feet up, and rest.

With approximately 20 inns, hotels, and B & Bs, Bisbee has a bed to suit any type of traveler. Book a room at Audrey’s Inn, Bisbee Grand Hotel, Copper Queen Hotel, or check into The Shady Dell where you can sleep in a vintage aluminum trailer.

We will definitely visit Bisbee again if we make our way back to southern Arizona. On my to do list are the mine and jeep tours.

Next stop? Alpine TX after a night or two in Las Cruces.

Safe Travels.

Lake Havasu and Beyond

A visit with family and friends in Lake Havasu City AZ was the perfect place to kick-off our winter 2017 travel. With San Antonio TX selected as our ultimate destination, we only had to figure out which route to take and what we wanted to see on the way.

We selected Prospectors RV Resort as our home for four nights in Havasu. Prospectors offers paved streets, large graveled sites with room enough for off-road vehicles alongside the RVs, spotless bathrooms and all the amenities expected by the long-term winter visitor.

London Bridge is an icon in Havasu. The original bridge built in the 1830’s in London was dismantled and rebuilt in Havasu by Robert P. McCulloch as a tourist attraction for the town he founded in the mid-sixties. Today the city boasts a population of approximately 53,000. Havasu is a popular destination for RVers who live in colder climates (affectionately referred to as snowbirds), college students on spring break, and people who are passionate about watersports.

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As happened during the start of our spring and summer 2016 trips, truck trouble slapped us in the face when the check engine light illuminated. Visions of our two weeks stuck in Elko NV last summer came into view. The dealer got us in on Monday morning, and in the time it took us to eat breakfast at Rusty’s they had replaced a bad sensor, which was covered under warranty. Good thing we were back on the road so soon because Prospectors was booked solid and we would have had to leave whether we had a truck or not.

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Rusty’s Great Place for Breakfast

On January 17, we headed south on I95 and made a quick stop at Bill Williams River National Wildlife Refuge. Behind me on the hill is the Hillcrest Bay Development, which has fantastic views of the refuge.

Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument was our planned stop for a few nights, but when we neared Gila Bend, we opted to stay the night at the Gila Bend KOA. We didn’t want to arrive too late at the monument’s campground since the spots are first-come-first-served. We had stayed at the KOA last year and were pleased to see that they continued with their improvements by putting in a pool, a patio behind the activity building, tent sites, and soon to arrive a new building to house restrooms and showers.

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Abandoned Building Near Gila Bend KOA

The next morning the campsites that greeted us at Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument Alpine Campground included wide long spots with plenty of natural habitat between them giving us the feeling that we were camping in the wild. An added bonus was that we had no neighbors beside us or across the road.

We ate lunch after our quick set up (no water, electrical or sewer hookups to worry about), and took the 1.3-mile trail to the visitors center where border patrol folks gave a talk on their responsibilities. The monument’s property extends to the border with Mexico and the visitor’s center is about five miles from the nearest crossing.

Besides the checkpoints on major highways, the border agents grade roads and paths that illegal immigrants and drug runners cross to identify locations where recent activity has occurred. They also use technology such as night vision, infrared, dogs, aircraft, and drones. It was interesting to learn that this border patrol region was responsible for the seizure of about 50% of all drugs seized in the United States and exceeds the illegal immigrants crossing the border.

Ever since Trump promised to “build a wall,” I’ve been worried about the 1,254-mile border between Mexico and Texas, which is defined by the Rio Grande River. Learning that border patrol will work with other departments to find the best solution should a wall be mandated gave me hope that the natural habitat and view along the Rio Grande border between Mexico and Texas may escape disastrous consequences.

Sprinkles woke us Thursday morning along with a little wind, but by 11:30 a.m. the sun was shining bright. We opted for the Desert View hike through Saguaros, Ocotillo, Palo Verde and other plants and cactus and shrubs. A cabana covered table was a great place to eat our tuna sandwiches after the hike before heading to the visitor center.

We arrived in time for a ranger talk on the leaf-cutting ants, Atta mexicana. It’s amazing that new colonies of the ants have increased over the years since only five of the 500 queens that fly out of the nest to mate manage to establish a colony. These ants form fungus, which is their fuel. They discard the leftovers outside of their nests, which provides nutrients to the neighboring plants in a symbiotic relationship.

Afterward, we drove the north Puerto Blanco Road where numerous saguaros grow. Like snowflakes and fingerprints, each saguaro has its own personality and no two are alike. Some grow arms out their tops some grow them low to the ground. Many sport baby arms that look like little fluffy balls next to their brothers and sisters outstretched arms.

Back at our campsite, the sky was ablaze. Smoke from a fire beyond the left side of the photo’s frame made it look like the setting sun was the center of the conflagration.

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There were plenty more hikes and things to see at Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument that we have to save for another trip. We didn’t bring our generator on this tour and our batteries required a fresh charge, so it was time to move on. Next stop? Benson AZ.

Safe travels.