From Tucson, Arizona, to Anaheim, California

On Wednesday, March 21, 2018, we left New Mexico behind and began our trek back to California to meet up with family at Disneyland. First, the fifth wheel and truck needed a good bath after 52 days on the road, so we stopped in at Rincon West RV Resort in Tucson for four nights. Mid to late March seems to be a great time to travel in southern Arizona. The weather was great and the resort had plenty of sites available, unlike what we found in February the previous year.

Tucson, Arizona

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Tucson always feels like home. We need to spend more time there.
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Can’t beat the Tucson sunsets.

After our cleaning day, we rewarded ourselves with a trip to an RV show at the convention center and an early dinner downtown. At the RV show, we took a good look at motorhomes to compare to our rig. We didn’t see anything that would make us switch at this time. The thought of having to deal with maintenance on a motorhome plus a vehicle towed behind put the kibosh on a new rig. On the other hand, the walk around town and an early dinner was a hit.

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The chili pepper design is appropriate for a bus stop in Tucson.
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The Rialto Theater, named after Ponte de Rialto in Venice. I grew up in Rialto, California, where the town’s logo includes an image of the bridge.

Obon Sushi Bar Ramen served up a Salmon Poke and Tonkotsu Ramen that matched our taste and left us wanting more even though we were full. In between lunch and dinner is our favorite time to grab a meal at a restaurant because they usually are not too busy. With only a few customers, our server checked on us frequently to make sure our food tasted good and we had everything we needed. We topped off our meal with a scoop of the most flavorful green tea ice cream I ever tasted.

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Obon Sushi Bar Ramen

The next day’s forecast called for 80-degree weather and high winds in the afternoon, so we got up early for a hike on the Douglas Spring Trail that leads into the Saguaro Wilderness Area. Parking is limited so it’s a good idea to arrive early.

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As we walked up to the trailhead, we heard a coyote howl behind us. Then another coyote responded. I love it when nature comes out and lets us experience their lives. Several hikes ranging from .2 to 12.4 miles are accessible from the trailhead.

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Carillo Trail

We opted for the 1.5-mile Carrillo Trail cut-off and then returned thinking the strong winds would begin roaring through the canyons by early afternoon. We found a well maintained, easy to moderate trail with no signs of litter, which was remarkable given the number of hikers we met along the way.

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The trail starts out as a botanical garden of sorts with several specimens of the cactus such as this blooming ocotillo and saguaro.

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Blooming Ocotillo and Saguaro Against the Sky.
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Teddy-Bear Cholla
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View from Carrillo Trail
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Barrel Cactus
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The damaged saguaro lives on.

The trailhead is at the end of a road near the entrance to the Tanque Verde Ranch. Our curiosity about the ranch led us down the road to see what there was to see. Turns out Tanque Verde is a dude ranch/spa type place that goes for an all-inclusive $409 per night. At this price three meals per day and access to all of the activities are included. Only want to stay the night and eat breakfast in the morning? The price is $149.

Since finding a site in Tucson was easy peasy, we risked fast-forwarding the rest of our way to Anaheim without reservations. After a quick stop in Yuma at Carefree RV Resort, a night at Banning KOA, and a night in the Inland Empire on the street in front of Jon’s brother’s house, we arrived in Anaheim on Wednesday, March 28, 2018.

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Yuma also puts on a good sunset show.

Anaheim, California, and Disneyland

Anaheim RV Park was the perfect place to stay while exploring Disneyland. Not only are the sites spacious with concrete patios, the hibiscus, dwarf citrus, and cell towers disguised as palm trees were a pleasant change of pace from the desert scenery of City of Rocks, Tucson, and Yuma. Best of all a shuttle bus ran between Disneyland and the RV Park every 20 minutes for a small fee.

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Anaheim RV Park has wide sites and plenty of greenery.

When grandchildren have special moments in their lives, Papa and Nana must do what they can to be there. So it was when our granddaughter Maya’s middle school band and honor guard was invited to parade down Disney’s Main Street.

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My lovely family from the left: Jon, Laura, Jackson, and Chris. Maya was with her school group. We’ll get a glimpse of her later.

Jon thinks The Happiest Place on Earth is the most Frustrating Place on Earth because of the long lines and overcrowded conditions, so spending two days there wasn’t his idea of a good time.

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The Tiki Room is always fun.

During this trip, however, our daughter Laura served as our personal Disney guide, scheduling the rides to avoid the long lines and planning where to go for our meals.

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Disney is hard at work on the Star Wars: Galaxy Edge opening in 2019.

With the Disneyland App in hand, she had all the information she needed to make our visit as painless as possible.

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The Swiss Family Treehouse is now Tarzan’s home.
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Tarzan Treehouse
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Submarine ride and Matterhorn
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Tom Sawyer’s Island is still the best place for kids to get their wiggles out.
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This was the first time I saw this ship moving in the water.
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We paid extra for a spot on the concrete to see the Fantasmic Show. It was worth it.
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The Silvey’s waiting for the Peter Pan ride.

And here comes the band and color guard.

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Wells Middle School on Parade Route
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Maya in the middle.
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Wells Middle School parents and fans cheer the kids on.
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Jon’s favorite attraction at Disneyland is Great Moments with Mr. Lincoln, no line and a quiet cool place to rest. The fire truck looks like a fun ride, too.
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Stop in at the Emporium for gifts.
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Jon attended the flag retreat, which honors current and veteran military personnel.

We all had a great two days at Disneyland. Even though Jon said he had a good time, I’m sure he’ll say no the next time the opportunity arises.

Four more days in Anaheim. Hmm, what will we do?

Safe Travels

Willcox, Arizona

Day 15 of our 2018 Winter Tour took us to Willcox, Arizona. Our goal was to see Fort Bowie National Historic Site, another place we had seen while passing through the area on our way to somewhere else. It smelled like rain when we left Gila Bend, gusty winds and thick sandstorms pelted our rig through Casa Grande. The clouds finally cleared by the time we hit Tucson, but the wind stayed with us all the way to Willcox, finally dying down around 7:00 p.m.

The groves of pecan and pistachio trees in this part of Arizona always surprise me. After traveling miles with only the desert landscape to gaze at, acres of trees pop up like a mirage. We drove through Pistachio Alley on our way to and from Fort Bowie National Historic Site Trailhead. The trees with their bare limbs don’t look like much this time of year, but I bet they are majestic covered in leaves.

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Pistachio Alley

Fort Bowie was named in honor of Colonel George Washington Bowie commander of the 5th Regiment, California Volunteer Infantry, who first established the fort. The trailhead can be reached through either the town of Willcox or the town of Bowie. We selected the Bowie route to avoid what I gathered was a 10-mile drive on a graded dirt road over the Apache Pass. Going through Bowie, there is only about 1 mile of the dirt road.

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Fort Bowie Trailhead

Don’t expect to drive a car up to a visitor center at Fort Bowie. (Accessible travel can be arranged). A 1.5-mile hike to the ruins meanders up and down hills, through a valley, alongside a spring, and past a cemetery. Information signs reveal the historic significance of the ruins along the way.

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Creek Crossing at Start of Trail

We took our time stopping at the ruins, reading the information signs, taking pictures, and wondering how it must have been riding a stagecoach through the rugged land.

The rocks in the photo below outline the spot where a cabin once stood. A local prospector and well digger, Jesse L. Millsap, lived in the cabin, according to his nephew who visited his uncle in a Model-T Ford with his father.

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Millsap Cabin Ruin

It was a pleasure walking along with only the sounds of nature surrounding us. Without the noise of a freeway, trains, and airplanes, it was like experiencing what someone during the 1880s might have experienced. Standing near the ruins of the Stage Station brought the scene to life.

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Stage Station Ruin Where The Butterfield Overland Mail Stopped to Exchange Mules and Rest

Imagine 6 – 8 foot-high walls surrounding a kitchen-dining room where stagehands and passengers ate a meal of bread, coffee, meat, and beans for fifty cents and rooms where guests might rest while waiting for the stagecoach to continue its route. Also enclosed within the walls was a storage room for feed and weapons and a corral for mules.

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Stage Station Ruin

One of the biggest events that occurred in the area was the Bascom Affair. On February 4, 1861, Lt. George Bascom gathered with 54 of his men on a mission to find Cochise, the principal chief of the Chokonen band of the Chiricahua Apache. Bascom believed Cochise and his band kidnapped a boy and stole livestock and he was intent to recover both the boy and the livestock. The problem was Cochise and his band did not take the boy or the livestock and was insulted over the accusation.

The conflict lasted for sixteen days with both Indians and soldiers capturing hostages and executing them in retaliation. For twelve years tensions between the two groups continued until President U.S. Grant sent General Oliver O. Howard to join army scout Thomas Jeffords to make peace with Cochise.

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Location Where Bascom Unsuccessfully Pressed Cochise to Return a Kidnapped Boy and Livestock

The Post Cemetery predates Fort Bowie when soldiers of the California Column were interred there in 1862. Other graves include military dependents, civilian employees, emigrants, mail carriers, and three Apache children including one of Geronimo’s sons.

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Little Robe Possibly Died from Dysentery While in Custody of Soldiers Along with Other Geronimo Family Members

The ruin in the photo below is of a late 19th-century adobe building, which housed the Chiricahua Apache Indian Agency in 1873-77. Based on an archeology study conducted in 1984,  the building contained fireplaces, three rooms, and a wooden floor. A porch may have occupied the front of the building along with corrals at the back of the building for holding agency livestock. Adobe plaster covers and stabilizes the walls exposed by the archeologists.

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When Cochise died in 1874, he left a band divided in leadership and conduct. Some Apaches lingered on the reservation while others left to plunder Mexican Settlements.  U.S. Indian Agent Thomas Jeffords governed the remaining 900 Chiricahua Apaches at the Chiricahua Apache Indian Agency in 1875-76.

In June 1876, the government removed Jeffords and moved 325 Apaches northward to the San Carlos Reservation. Many escaped and fled to distant sanctuaries to renew hostilities for another decade.

Imagine a camp of several thatched wickiups like the one in the photo below. Clustered together but hidden for safety, camp life continued as it had for hundreds of years.  Men rode off to hunt for game while women harvested crops, prepared food, and cared for the children. The freshwater spring and other resources in the surrounding area supported hundreds of Chiricahua during the winter and spring seasons.

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Wikiup Hut and Ramada

A unique feature located in Apache Pass, and a cause of many conflicts, is a freshwater spring that flows from a geological fault. Native Americans relied on the water long before the emigrants and soldiers arrived on the scene. Eventually, the Chiricahua were driven away from their home.

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Apache Spring

The walk to the ruins was not strenuous, but we were glad to have plenty of water and a snack with us. It is also a good idea to take along a sweater or light jacket, depending on the time of year, in case the weather conditions shift.

The steps up to the big porch at the visitor center and a comfortable bench where I could rest for a few minutes was a welcome sight. Inside the building, are a small museum and the typical national park T-shirts, hats, books, and junior ranger paraphernalia offered for sale.

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Long View of Fort Bowie Ruins
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Fort Bowie Ruins
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Non-commissioned Staff Officer’s Quarters

We followed the docent advice and took the return trail back to the parking lot. Although the steep incline up a hill behind the visitor center was intimidating, switchbacks and flat stretches made the descent easier.

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Return Trail to Parking Lot

The best part was the spectacular views of not only the fort ruins but also the agricultural zones, valleys, and cities off in the distance.

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Views from Atop the Hill

We enjoyed our hike to the Fort Bowie ruins and wouldn’t mind returning some day during a prettier time of year. I’d like to see the pistachio and pecan trees dressed in their leaves and the ocotillo in bloom. Next time we’ll carry a full lunch in our backpack instead of the measly snacks we had packed.

Keeping with our 250 – 400 miles a day, Van Horn seemed like the next logical place to stop as we headed into Texas.

Joshua Tree National Park

From Prescott we headed toward Twenty-nine Palms, California, to explore Joshua Tree National Park, a place we had wanted to return to for many years. We checked in at Twenty-nine Palms RV Resort on October 19, 2017, for four nights.

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Joshua Tree National Park Visitor Center

This desert area became a national park in 1994 after being set aside as a monument in 1936 by President Roosevelt. Jon and I had driven by the park several times going to and from other places and often commented that we needed to go back and spend some time. I was curious about what had changed since I camped at Jumbo Rocks with a group of friends while still in high school. Finally, I’d find out.

Oasis Visitor Center

We started our exploration at the Oasis Visitor Center where we picked up a pamphlet and a map of the 794,000-acre park. We also walked around the Oasis Trail with a volunteer ranger. She had a grade school teacher’s personality that roused our interest as she pointed out features of the palms, the different plants, and the animals that visited the pond. She explained that they do not trim the dead palm fronds from the trees because they serve as homes and protection for birds, owls, and other critters.

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Oasis Trail at Visitor Center

The main highway traffic ebbed into white noise leaving only the sounds of wind whistling through the palm fronds, the trickling spring, birds trilling their songs, and scampering lizards and mice rustling in the brush.

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There’s a Spring Under All that Greenery

Along the path is a series of signposts that tell the story of what happens when a seventeen-year-old girl of the Chemehuevi falls in love with a white man. The story gave me a glimpse into the people who visited the oasis in the early 1900s.

Cholla Cactus Garden

Be sure to wear closed-toe shoes while navigating the quarter-mile loop trail in the Cholla Cactus Garden.

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Cholla Gardens
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Cholla Garden

Although the branches appear as if they are covered with something soft and fluffy, don’t touch. The prickly barbs will latch onto shoes and clothing and you’ll have a jolly time trying to remove them. The cone shapes tipped with yellow are what is left from the flowers that bloom from March through May.

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Cholla Close Up

Split Rock Loop Trail

Take the Split Rock short loop trail to see rocks and cactus up close, or extend the hike to a full 2.5 miles by taking the extension to Face Rock.

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JT Waving at Split Rock
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My, What a Big Toe You Have
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Sleeping Baby Elephant?
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Yucca Plant Cuddles With a Prickly Pear
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Stone Steps Mark the Trail
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Yucca Plants Hanging on to the Last of Their Bloom Stalks
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Balancing Rocks Are A Common Sight
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The Olympic Flame Just Like in Bryce Canyon

Joshua Trees

Joshua Tree National Park is unique in that it encompasses portions of both the Mojave Desert on the western half of the park and the Colorado Desert on the eastern half. The Joshua Trees, a species of yucca rather than a true tree, are most prevalent on the western side where elevations are greater than 3,000 feet.

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Acres and Acres of Joshua Trees
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Joshua Tree Forest

Skull Rock Trail

This is another loop trail and quite popular with cars and trucks parked on both sides of the road for about a quarter mile on either side. Start at Jumbo Rocks Campground, or at Skull Rock. There are trails on both sides of the highway and plenty to see.

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View from Atop The Jumbo Rocks

A sampling of plants seen on the trails.

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Or, is This a Baby Elephant?
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Skull Rock Crawling with People

Hidden Valley Trail

I think Hidden Valley Trail was one of my favorites. It’s such a surprise to break through the tight boulder formations and encounter a rock enclosed valley that cattle rustlers may have used to hide out.

 

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Yucca and Other Plants Find Cracks and Crevices to Grow
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Climbers Have Plenty of Spots to Navigate The Steep Rock Faces in Hidden Valley
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Look Ma, I’m King of the Hill
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Stairs Make the Trek Easier

 

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Hershey Kiss?

Keys View (5,183 feet)

Keys View overlooks Highway 10 and across the valley stands the Indio Hills.

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San Gorgonio Peak
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San Gorgonio Pass Looking West
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Coachella Valley In the Haze

 29 Palms Inn and Restaurant

 We didn’t expect much in the way of a decent restaurant in town since the main drag was where most of the fast-food chains set up shop. We were surprised, however, when we drove to the end of a road, skirted the pool, and walked into the restaurant at the 29 Palms Inn on the Oasis of Mara. They have been dishing up tasty food since 1928.

 

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29 Palms Inn Restaurant

 

 

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Dining room at 29 Palms Inn Restaurant

 

The inn includes several adobe bungalows, suites, wood frame cabins, and other accommodations guests wanting a quirky place to stay. Oh, the stories those bungalows could tell if only given a chance.

 

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29 Palms Inn Lobby

 

Camping at Joshua Tree National Monument

Camping is available year round. No reservations are needed during the summer when the temperatures rise to 100 degrees or more. October through May is the busiest time and mid-February to mid-May and holidays are the busiest. Two of the campgrounds accept reservations and six are first come, first served. By Friday morning, October 20, 2017, the campgrounds were already full. I’m glad we had arranged for accommodations outside of the park, although it would have been fun to look up at the pitch black sky and watch the Orionid meteor shower without ambient light getting in the way. Oh, about what has changed at Jumbo Rock Campground? Although I noticed a definite upgrade in the amenities, the crowded sites turned me off. Maybe Sunday through Wednesday wouldn’t be so bad.

Another Restaurant Recommendation

On our way from Prescott, Arizona, to Twenty-nine Palms, California, we passed through Wickenburg, Arizona, at lunchtime. The Tastee Freez looked to be the best bet in town, and we weren’t disappointed. Expecting only grilled hamburgers and French fries, this Tastee Freez, along with Sundance Pizza, has a large menu to satisfy any guest, including deli sandwiches and salads. If you are traveling through Wickenburg and it’s time to eat, don’t be shy about giving this Tastee Freez a try.

If the timing is right the next time we roll through Twenty-nine Palms, we’ll have to stop and explore more of Joshua Tree National Park. Plenty of trails still remain for us to take.

Coming up is the Borax Visitor Center in Boron, California, and then on to Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks.

Safe Travels

Prescott, Arizona

We headed south on Highway 17 on Sunday, October 15, 2017, the 22nd day of our fall tour. We transitioned onto scenic Highway 89A through Sedona and on toward Prescott, Arizona. We wanted to stop in Sedona and see what the town had to offer, but there was too much traffic, vehicles and pedestrians, and no place to park.

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Welcome to Sedona if You Can Find a Spot to Park

Along the way we saw signs advertising Montezuma Castle National Monument, so we detoured east on Highway 260 to Camp Verde, Arizona, to take a look.

Montezuma Castle National Monument

Montezuma Castle is one of three national monuments in the Verde Valley that protect and interpret the legacy of the Sinagua culture. Although it is a small monument, it contains well-preserved cliff-dwellings. A paved trail meanders through a forest of Arizona Sycamore and Walnut trees with an undergrowth of creosote bush, velvet mesquite, catclaw mimosa, and soaptree yucca, to name a few.

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Montezuma Castle Cliff Dwelling

Along with Montezuma Castle, Montezuma Well—a natural oasis—and Tuzigoot—an excavated ancestral village—depicts a farming life in the valley some 1,000 years ago. Unfortunately, we were only able to see Montezuma Castle and had to add the well and Tuzigoot to our list of places to visit during a future trip.

Highway 17 would have taken us to Prescott, but we wanted to go through Jerome, Arizona. Jon remembered steep cliffs without safety railings along the road through Jerome, so I braced for a white-knuckle ride. I’ve seen cities built on hills before, but nothing to the degree of how Jerome is situated. Billboards mentioned RV parking, but with so many vehicles around, it was clear there was no spot for our truck and 30’ fifth wheel. We continued on along the narrow street, navigating hairpin turn after hairpin turn until we stopped at a vista point to calm our nerves.

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Whew! This View was Our Reward for Making it Safely Through Jerome.

Point of Rocks RV Park and Watson Lake

As advertised, Point of Rocks RV Park in Prescott, Arizona, was a short walk to Watson Lake where we had our first views of the Granite Dells.

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Watson Lake and Granite Dells
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Memorial to Lost Hiker?

The lake, one of two, was created by the Chino Valley Irrigation District in the early 1900s. Today the City of Prescott owns the lake and has preserved it and the surrounding area for recreational purposes. Visitors enjoy fishing and kayaking at the lake and birding, hiking, and rock climbing along the 4.6-mile trail that surrounds the water.

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Watson Lake
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Kayaking on Watson Lake
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Go Ducks, Go
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Trail Around Watson Lake

Besides the available outdoor activities around Prescott, we found the preservation of historic buildings and the Sharlot Hall Museum of interest.

Historic Downtown Prescott and Whiskey Row

We stopped in at the Tourist Center and grabbed a pamphlet that detailed the location of the buildings built over 100 years ago.

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Bandstand Predates the County Courthouse

The Yavapai County Courthouse Plaza is at the center of the historic district which encompasses a 17-acre area that includes 26 contributing buildings in its designation on the National Registry of Historic Places.

 

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Yavapai County Courthouse

 

Whiskey Row, across from the courthouse, is where a total of 40 saloons once occupied the commercial space when the street was rebuilt after the 1900 fire destroyed four blocks of businesses.

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Whiskey Row Across the Street From Courthouse Plaza

The Palace Restaurant and Saloon, originally established in 1877, is considered the oldest frontier saloon in Arizona. The Palace lists Wyatt Earp, Virgil Earp, and Doc Holliday as patrons in the late 1870s. The 1880s Brunswick Bar is still in use, having been carried to safety across the street by patrons before the 1900 fire destroyed the building.

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Palace Restaurant and Saloon

A gentleman costumed in old western attire greets customers as they enter the bar and escorts them to a dining table. After we enjoyed our meal and an Arizona Sunrise Margarita, we took time to walk around the restaurant to check out the memorabilia and photos that line the walls.

Here’s a sample of other buildings around the square.

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Dedicated to Lilly Langtry, Jersey Lilly Saloon has a Balcony that Overlooks Courthouse Plaza Square for a Birdseye View of All the Activity
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One of the Galleries
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Several Businesses Occupy this Art Deco Building
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Prescott National Bank Building on the Corner and the Masonic Temple Next Door

Sharlot Hall Museum

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Sharlot Hall Museum Entrance

 

I never heard of Sharlot Hall before, but I’m glad I met her while visiting the Sharlot Hall Museum. She is truly a woman to admire.

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Restored Arizona Territorial Governor’s Mansion Once Housed Sharlot’s Collections

Sharlot moved to the Prescott area with her parents and brother in 1882 at the age of 12. She saw the need to collect and protect Native American and pioneer artifacts early on and planned to develop a museum for her collections.

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Bedroom in Old Governor’s Mansion

She lived at her father’s Orchard Ranch until 1927 when she moved her collection of artifacts and documents into the Old Governor’s Mansion. She opened the museum one year later. A journalist, poet, and essayist, she served as the territorial historian from September 1909 to February 1912 and lobbied against a bill that would have combined New Mexico and Arizona territories into one state.

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1875 Fremont House Shows Period Construction and Furnishings. Used as Residence for 5th Territorial Governor John Charles Fremont

Working with the Civil Works Administration during the 1930s, the Sharlot Hall Museum building was built. After her death in 1943, the entire complex officially became The Sharlot Hall Museum. In 1981 she became one of the first women elected to the Arizona Women’s Hall of Fame. Today the museum consists of ten exhibit buildings, four of which have been historically restored.

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Constructed in 1934 This Building Houses Many of the Items Collected by Sharlot Hall
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Pottery Display
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Diorama Exhibit of Native Americans

The museum operates daily from October through May, conducts four annual festivals, and offers living history events. We enjoyed our visit to the museum and highly recommend it for anyone interested in Native American and pioneer history of the old west.

 

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Memorial Rose Garden Honors More Than 200 Territorial Women
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Ranch House Built in the 1930s to Represent the Ranch Homes in the Area

Of all the places we have visited over the past two years, Prescott has to be one of my favorites. With plenty of outdoor activities, museums, and dedication to historical preservation, it is a place I would like to stay for more than three or four nights. I’m sure we will return soon.

Coming up next are a few stops in California.

Safe Travels

Flagstaff, Arizona – Part Two

Flagstaff Part Two

We managed to fit into our schedule a couple more Flagstaff sights while in town: the Lowell Observatory, founded in 1894 by Percival Lowell, and the Walnut Creek National Monument, where a civilization once lived and farmed 1,000 years ago.

Lowell Observatory

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Lowell Observatory Visitor Center

Percival Lowell had a theory about life on Mars, mainly, that water flowed through what he thought were canals. Although controversial, Percival was undeterred. Using a 24-inch Alvan Clark refracting telescope installed in 1896, Lowell spent fifteen years mapping Mars and creating hand-drawn globes of the planet that showed details of the canals.

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Clark Refractor

Later, he was devoted to searching for Planet X, a planet located beyond Neptune having a gravitational impact on Uranus and Neptune. The Pluto Discovery Telescope, currently under renovation, was built in 1928-1929. The year before Lowell’s death in 1916, astronomers at the observatory photographed what would later be identified as Pluto, which was reclassified as a dwarf planet in 2006. The scope is an astrograph with three 13 inch diameter lenses and designed to take photos of the night sky for survey purposes and to detect objects, such as meteors. Today, I understand astronomers are searching for Planet Nine which could be ten times the mass of Earth. Mauna Kea Observatory in Hawaii and its Subaru Telescope is one such tool being used to find the elusive planet.

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John Vickers McAllister Public Observatory

Other discoveries made at the Lowell Observatory include V. M. Slipher’s observations that lead to the theory of an expanding universe and the measurement of motions and properties of stars, some of which were used in the 1960s to create maps of the moon.

While at the observatory, we had an opportunity to view the sun through a solar telescope. After a lifetime of being told not to look directly at the sun, I had a strange feeling as my eye focused on the orange ball for a minute or so. Although the sun was quiet that day with no solar flares evident, it was still an awesome sight to see.

Other buildings of interest include the Rotunda Museum where the public can view the first telescope Percival Lowell received when he was 15 years old, his hand-drawn Mars globes, instruments built by Lowell scientists, and classic scientific books.

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Rotunda Museum

The Putnam Collection includes Percival Lowell’s state-of-the-art horseless carriage, a 1911 Stevens-Duryea still in working order.

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Putnam Collection Building
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1911 Stevens-Duryea

And don’t forget Percival Lowells Mausoleum, a perfect resting place for the astronomer.

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Percival Lowell’s Mausoleum

Daytime guided tours, films, and evening programs will please the amateur and professional astronomer alike.

I admire Percival Lowell for embarking on his pursuit of water on Mars and a new planet. His theory of water on Mars may not have panned out, but his persistence led to further searches for objects in the night sky beyond what we can see with our naked eyes.

Walnut Creek National Monument

Walnut Creek National Monument, established in 1915, is accessed a few miles east of Flagstaff off Highway 40.

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Walnut Canyon Visitor Center

The Island Trail takes visitors into the canyon 185 vertical feet on 273 stair steps. The reward for this effort is to walk among the 25 cliff dwelling rooms where the Sinagua people made their home among the cliffs 1,000 years ago.

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Bottom of Stairs on the Island Trail
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On the Island Trail
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Inside one of the Cliff Dwellings
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Doorways Led Into Adjoining Rooms
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Imagine the Work Required to Build the Stonewalls

Views of other structures etched into the surrounding cliffs are also visible. Were these rooms used only for storage, or did the people make their homes in the small structures? I tried to imagine how the people accessed the caches. Did they use ropes? Or maybe they constructed ladders? Either way, it must have been treacherous.

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View from Across the Canyon

The self-guided Rim Trail follows the canyon rim to two overlooks, and loops around to a pit house and pueblos set back from the rim. This is the area where the Sinagua grew their crops. Signposts along the way describe the vegetation and other information about the people who lived there.

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Claret Cup Hedgehog Cactus
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Blue Grama Grass

I think I would have felt more comfortable living in a pueblo like the two-room structure below, but I’m sure there were other dangers there as well.

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Excavated Pueblo Along the Rim Trail

Across the path stands a pit room where, presumably, the people stored their food and other possessions. Or, perhaps this was someone’s home.

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Excavated Pit House

I tried to imagine the sounds and smells of life when the Sinagua lived on this land: the squawk of birds overhead, the echo of children laughing, men joking while they work, meat cooking over an open fire. How would I have managed along the cliffs with a baby swaddled to my body or toddlers underfoot and in constant fear of a child falling into the canyon abyss? Not very well, I guess.

Flagstaff has so much more to offer visitors than what we were able to see during our short stay. When the desert valleys turn hot, head to Flagstaff to beat the heat, go on a hike, or explore the downtown. Or visit in winter to shuush down slopes, cross-country ski, or set out with snowshoes strapped to your feet. Any time of year would be a great time to visit Flagstaff.

Next stop? Prescott, Arizona.

Safe Travels

Spending Time in Flagstaff, Arizona – Part One

U.S. Route 89 heading south of The Gap Trading Post in Cameron, Arizona, was like driving over asphalt moguls. With the fifth wheel chugging behind the truck, we rocked side to side, up and down, and forward and backward as we rolled over the recently paved road. Motion sickness set in for the duration. I can’t imagine why Arizona DOT would intentionally pave over bumps and hills.

The AAA tour book listed a few places to explore in Flagstaff, so as we rolled into town we scanned the signs for places to park the rig. J and H looked promising with its pull-through sites and thick gravel roads. We checked in for three nights on October 12, 2017. We would have gone for four or maybe even five nights, but the park closed on the 15th.

Although they are an RV park with a number of restrictions—no kids, no smoking, no campfires, no motorcycles, no rig washing—we would stay there again for the quiet and the mature trees. We don’t have kids or motorcycles, don’t smoke, can do without campfires, and can wait to wash the rig in another location.

Historic Downtown Flagstaff and Railroad District

Thomas F. McMillan established the first permanent settlement in 1876 when he built a cabin at the base of Mars Hill before the city’s establishment in 1882. By 1886, the surrounding area had grown into the largest city on the railroad line between Albuquerque and the West Coast of the United States. In a 1900s journal entry, Sharlot Hall described the town as a “third-rate mining camp.” A description, I believe, accurate for a lot of towns in the west during that time.

 

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Coconino County Superior Courthouse

 

Timothy and Michael Riordan moved to the Arizona Territory in 1880 and formed the Arizona Lumber and Timber Company shortly after. They later married women from Cincinnati who were sisters and built a home in 1904 (see Riordan Mansion State Park below). The brothers were instrumental in bringing electricity to the city, building a dam to create a lake and water source, and medical care for not only their employees but visitors and members of the community. They also founded a normal school, or teacher’s college, which eventually became Northern Arizona University (NAU).

 

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Historic Weatherford Hotel

 

The city prospered through the 1960s but experienced an exodus of businesses during the 1970s and 1980s when the companies either closed down or relocated to the new mall. In 1983, the railroad was added to the historic district and in the 1990s a downtown revitalization attracted new businesses and restaurants to set up shop. The historic district is now a vibrant business and commercial destination.

 

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Independent Book Store

 

 

At an elevation of 7,000 feet, Flagstaff sits at the foot of Mount Elden, which is a large lava dome. The mountain offers plenty of trails to hike and explore. Unfortunately, we did not have time to pull on our hiking shoes and wander in the forest.

Restaurants

 With our limited time in Flagstaff, we opted to try out a couple of restaurants instead of spending our time cooking and cleaning dishes.

We loved the casual atmosphere, bright colors, and Day of the Dead décor of MartAnne’s Burrito Palace where we ordered a tostada plate with chips and salsa to eat while we sipped our margaritas. We’ll definitely try other menu items the next time we are in Flagstaff.

 

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MartAnne’s Burrito Palace

 

Beaver Street Brewery, located in the Halstead Lumberyard Building,  was the place to go for pizza and beer. The menu includes a full bar and beer on tap, along with an assortment of appetizers, fondues, hearty salads, sandwiches, and dinner selections. Diners are sure to find something to suit their palates.

 

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Flagstaff’s First Brewpub Opened in 1994

 

Riordan Mansion State Historic Park

Located in the Historic Downtown near NAU, is the Riordan Mansion State Historic Park. In 1904, Michael and Timothy Riordan built the Arts and Crafts style duplex for their families. Built by Charles Whittlesey, the 13,000 square foot home is similar in style and architecture to the Grand Canyon’s El Tovar Hotel, which was also built by Whittlesey. Ponderosa pine slab siding and volcanic stone arches adorn the exterior of the home. The wood siding was milled at the brother’s Arizona Lumber and Timber  Company.

 

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Riordan Mansion Rear 

 

Timothy’s family occupied the east wing (on the right), and Michael’s family occupied the west wing (on the left). They shared the common area in between. Docents conduct 60-minute interpretive tours daily (except Christmas day) of the east wing, which is furnished with Edison, Stickley, Ellis, and Steinway family heirlooms.

No photos are allowed in the east wing where the tours are, so I only managed shots of the exterior and the west wing, which primarily housed information on the construction of the house and of the families and included a few roped off areas on the first floor.

 

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Kitchen in West Wing
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Fireplace Made From Local Resources 
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Stain Glass Window
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Entrance to East Wing
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Entry Gate to Patio and Middle Portion of the House
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Kachina Tile Embedded in Archway. For good luck?

 

Next up we continue our Flagstaff visit, take a tour of the Lowell Observatory, and learn about the cliff dwellers who made Walnut Canyon there home.

Safe Travels

Kanab, Utah

Kanab, Utah

With no reservations or idea where we would stop, we left Zion on October 9, 2017, taking Highway 89 south from Mt. Carmel Junction. Kanab looked like a nice little city as we drove into town, and it would be a good jumping off point for North Rim Grand Canyon. All we had to do was find a place to set up the fifth wheel.

The first park we tried was booked solid for the month. Back toward town, we passed Hitch-N-Post. Although a sign on the street said they had no RV sites, we stopped and asked anyway. Good luck was shining on us that day. A cancellation had come through a few minutes before.

 Coral Pink Sand Dunes

After situating the rig beside one of the cabins, a short drive to Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park was in order. The Dunes became a state park in 1963 providing off-road enthusiasts a place to play. On the look out for the dunes, we drove through areas where juniper, pinyon pine, and Gambel oak were rooted in a soil of beige to pink sand. At an elevation of nearly 6,000 feet, even ponderosa pines are found within the park boundaries.

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Pink Coral Dunes

The dunes, formed by wind carrying away eroded Navajo sandstone, are believed to be 10,000 to 15,000 years old. The grains of sand have to be the right size to travel the distance from the mountains or plateaus, not too large and not too small.

We walked out onto the observation boardwalk near the visitor center and watched hikers trekking across the ridge and ATVs roaming around with their whip flags flying. It looked like fun, if not a bit dangerous. I would sure hate to see an ATV crest a dune ridge and encounter one of the hikers.

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Coral Pink Sand Dunes
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Footsteps Across Ripples

The park includes a campground with 22 spaces, each with a loop drive to provide plenty of parking for RVs and trailers loaded with off-highway vehicles (OHVs). With the convenience of trails leading from the campsites to the dunes and restrooms and showers for the campers to rinse sand off after a day of riding, this campground has it all for avid off-road adventurers.

North Rim – Grand Canyon

The next day we drove 80 miles south of Kanab to North Rim Grand Canyon National Park. We were lucky to have arrived when we did because the lodge and campground were set to close for the winter in four days.

We drove through beautiful forests and meadows noting the aspen had already lost their leaves.

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One of the Meadows on the Drive to North Rim

Although North Rim is advertised as the quieter side of the canyon, a campground-full sign sat outside the check-in kiosk and the visitor center and the lodge was teeming with tourists.

We walked around the visitor center and lodge gawking at the view through the panes of glass. On the patio, visitors gathered around a ranger who gave a talk about the Grand Canyon geology.

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Grand Canyon Lodge Patio
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Dining Room at the Lodge
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Lobby Area

Then we ventured out along Bright Angel Point Trail for some spectacular views.

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Are you coming?

I squinted to see if I could make out any of the facilities along the south rim. Even with my 300 mm zoom lens, I could not see anything. I guess the 11.5-mile distance from rim to rim was too far to see such details.

The skies were clear enough, however, to see the San Francisco Peaks popping their heads up across the canyon 64 miles away.

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Looking South Toward San Francisco Peaks

Sitting on the ledge with feet dangling seemed to be a favorite pastime for some visitors. I guess they wanted some alone time.

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Couple on a Ledge
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Canyon Foothills
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Southwest View
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View Toward the East from Bright Angel Point

It seemed as though I could see the depth of the canyon better from the north vantage point. The views from the South Rim are also spectacular, but I think I like the views from the North rim better. They seemed more dramatic somehow. Perhaps the angle of the light created a sense of depth that I never experienced from the perspective of the South Rim.

The North Rim is a place I would like to return to someday to spend more time, assuming we could manage to obtain a reservation.  I’d like to hike down into the canyon on the North Kaibab Trail.

On our way back to Kanab, the Vermillion Cliffs came into view. Another place we will need to return to. There are several photos on the internet of swirling rock formations at the monument I’d love to see in person.

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Vermillion Cliffs

Join us next week as we hang out in Flagstaff, Arizona, for a few days.

Safe Travels