Last Day in Silver City, New Mexico, then on to City of Rocks State Park

Whitewater Canyon Catwalk National Recreation Trail

A scenic drive to Whitewater Canyon Catwalk National Recreation seemed the perfect diversion on our last day in Silver City. An hour and a half on US 180 dropped us into a narrow canyon where Geronimo and his band of Apache warriors hid from Army soldiers in the 1800s. Butch Cassidy also found the canyon as a good hiding place from Pinkerton detectives and miners tried their luck digging for silver and gold. Today visitors come to the canyon to escape the heat, swim in the creek, and hike along the catwalk.

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Whitewater Canyon Catwalk National Recreation Trail Picnic Area

When John T. Graham constructed a mill at the mouth of the Whitewater Canyon in 1893 to serve the silver and gold mines further up the canyon, a town was born. Water in the creek did not always provide a constant supply for the mill and the town.

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Graham Mill Remnants

This need spurred the construction of a 4-inch water pipeline attached to the canyon walls above Whitewater Creek and stretching three miles into the canyon. Four years later an 18-inch pipeline was installed to provide more water, but required constant repair. The pipeline earned its name as the Catwalk due to repairmen, loaded down with tools, performing balancing acts atop the pipeline as they navigated their way to repair a breach.

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Start of Catwalk Trail

After the mill closed in 1913, the brick, wood, and metal used in constructing the buildings were removed and scrapped, and the residents left town, leaving only remnants of the mill’s foundation.

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Metal Walking Trail Attached to the Cliffs

The area returned to a natural state until 1930 when the Civilian Conservation Corps rebuilt the catwalk, which hikers used until 1961. At that time, the Forest Service constructed the steel walkways. Fires, floods, and landslides have caused damage through the years requiring extensive repairs.

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Look Below at Whitewater Creek

The structure currently runs a span of .5 miles where a bridge once stood allowing hikers to continue up the canyon. Always wanting to know what is beyond the next bend or over the next rise, we stood on one side of Whitewater Creek looking for a way across to the other side. It wasn’t happening without getting wet, so we gave it a pass.

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Not Quite the End of the Line if you Don’t Mind Wet Feet
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A Look Under the Metal Structure
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A Cleat From the Original Water Pipe

We admired the tall sycamores that lined the creek as we made our way back to the picnic area where we enjoyed our lunch in the shade. The creek gurgled a few feet away, squirrels scurried from bush to bush and climbed into the trees, and several types of birds called out to each other. Crowds can grow thick during the summer and on weekends, but we encountered little traffic while there. Rocks and leaves in Whitewater Creek produced a colorful scene to play with abstract photography.

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My Attempt at Abstract Photography

On our drive to and from Whitewater, we passed through another town with the same name as one in the Bay Area. Pleasanton, New Mexico, with a current population of around 100, was founded in 1882 by Mormons.

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Pleasanton, New Mexico

Anglers might want to take a cutoff to Bill Evans Dam where they can try their luck. The Dodge Corporation constructed the dam in 1969 to capture water for use in their mining operation near Tyrone, New Mexico.

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Bill Evans Dam Reservoir

Be sure to make a stop at the Aldo Leopold Vista. It is a great place to take in the wide open expanse of the Gila National Forest. Leopold is considered by some as the father of wildlife conservation in the United States and a proponent for the American wilderness movement of the early 1900s.

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Gila National Forest

City of Rocks

We had one last stop to make before leaving New Mexico and entering Arizona. The short 45-minute drive from Silver City to City of Rocks afforded us an opportunity to grab a spot for the night in the State Park.

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Jon with the City Of Rocks Sign
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City of Rock Visitor Center, Restrooms, and Showers

Obviously, all of the full hookup sites were either occupied or reserved, but we managed to find a space for our rig nestled among the boulders.

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Campsite at City of Rocks

Volcanic eruption and erosion during the past 34.9 million years sculpted the rock columns that reach a height of 40 feet and the paths and lanes that resemble city streets. The unique formations of the “city” reminded me of the Jumbo Rocks in Joshua Tree National Park.

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View from Hydra Trail

The park contains a total of 7.5 miles of hiking and biking trails. Besides camping and hiking, rock climbing, horseback riding, birding, and of course photography opportunities make this park a great place to spend a day or a few nights. Campers will find 64 campsites to choose from, some are reserve only while others are first to come gets to camp. Restrooms and showers are available at the visitor center for campers. Vault toilets are also located throughout the campground.

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Parking Area Near Visitor Center

The botanical garden includes information signs with the names of the different cactus plants. We took the Hydra Trail nearby then cut off on the vault 3 spur trail back to our campground.

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Nice Barrel Cactus Specimen

Like naming clouds in the sky we entertained ourselves by making up names for the rock formations as we scrambled over and through the boulders on the Planet Walk Trail.

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Bear Rock Formation
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Heart Rock
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Split Rock
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Balance Rock

We had seen signs for an observatory that is located in the group camping area. Unfortunately, they weren’t offering any night time sky programs during our stay.

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Gene and Elizabeth Simon Observatory at City of Rocks

I tried making some nighttime photos. Obviously, I didn’t get the settings right because none of the photos turned out. The next morning, though, dawned with a beautiful sunrise.

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Sunrise at City of Rocks

With my shoes on my feet, a jacket over my pajamas, beanie on my head, and camera in hand I was ready to greet the light.

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City of Rocks Visitor Center and Windmill at Sunrise
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City of Rocks on Planet Walk Trail

After a quick breakfast, we stretched our legs on the Hydra trail on the east side of the campground looping around Pegasus campground before hopping in the truck for our four-hour drive to Tucson, Arizona.

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Site 16 Spur Trail
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Hardpack under the Creekbed Gravel was Like Concrete
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On one of the Streets through the City
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Close Up of the Beautiful Colors in the Rock

It is always nice when a bird is kind enough to pose for a wildlife photo.

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One Little Birdy Sitting in a Tree

Even though the campground filled up for the night, it didn’t feel crowded or noisy. We’ll consider stopping at City of Rocks State Park the next time we are driving through New Mexico on Interstate 10. The half-hour drive north of Deming will be worth it to spend time among the boulders and away from the freeway noise.

We’ll be taking a digital holiday for a week or so, but we plan to be back with our next post on June 21, 2018.

Safe Travels

 

Silver City, New Mexico

We left the Texas Hill Country on March 14, 2018, the 45th day of our 2018 Winter Tour, headed west toward Silver City, New Mexico. With no reservations, our mantra for the day turned into, “Where oh where will we stop?”

Crossing West Texas

Windmills and oil derricks dotted the miles and miles of groomed cotton fields along Interstate 20. In the larger towns, like Midland and Odessa, energy-related businesses lined the highway with “Now Hiring” banners hung from their walls. Many of the roadside billboards also advertised for energy jobs, claiming their company was the best place for employees. Pickup trucks filled the parking lots we passed, not a Tesla, BMW, or Volkswagen in sight. We had never seen pop-up RV parks. Tucked in behind or beside commercial buildings trailers, fifth wheels, and motorhomes filled the spaces behind temporary fencing and lighting towers. Need a job? Head for West Texas and join the modern-day gold rush with your pickup truck and RV.

We continued on to Pecos, Texas, finding a spot at Tra-Park RV. Then we had another one-night stay at the Las Cruces KOA before arriving at the Silver City KOA in New Mexico for four nights. Visiting the Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument was our goal during our stay.

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Silver City Gateway Bridge Crosses The Big Ditch

Silver City, New Mexico

First, a little bit about Silver City that occupies land once used as an Apache campsite. Spaniards also mined copper nearby and archeological evidence indicates the Membres Mogollon Indians lived in the area between 200 and 1140-50 AD.

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Near the Visitor Center is a 1870s Style Log Cabin Gifted to the City by Director Ron Howard. A Set Piece from the Movie “The Missing,” the Cabin is Placed at the Location Where Billy the Kid (AKA Henry McCarty and William H. Bonney) Lived from 1873 – 1875.

Founded in 1870 after prospectors discovered silver ore deposits at Chloride Flat, the city is now home to Western New Mexico University and two mining operations that generate approximately $73 million in wages.

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Downtown Silver City

One of the main features of the town is the Big Ditch. After twenty-five years of population growth, the loss of trees to construction and plant life to cattle grazing caused rainfall to rush through the downtown area destroying most of the businesses in its path during a major flood on July 21, 1895.

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Impressive Greek Inspired Architecture for the Town Offices

The solution was a ditch 55-feet lower than the original main street. Residents and visitors can enjoy the tree-lined walking paths at Big Ditch Park.

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Sidewalk Art
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A Space Studio Art Gallery

Silver City boasts a vibrant arts district in the downtown area with musicians and artists, newly renovated Silco Theater, and the Southwest Festival of the Written Word.

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Silco Theater Built in 1912. Renovated and re-opened on February 26, 2016, as Community Movie House
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Copper Quail Gallery Dressed in a Southwest Adobe Style

As usual, the historic buildings had me raising my camera to capture the colorful buildings, detail architecture, and murals.

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The Murray Hotel Chooses an Art Deco Theme
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Murray Hotel Lobby
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The Conway House
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Diane’s Restaurant, Parlor, Bakery, and Deli
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Intricate Detailed Painting
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One of the Murals in Town
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A Building in Need of Tender Care
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Grant County Courthouse

We enjoyed wandering around the town of Silver City and wouldn’t mind visiting there again. The March weather was comfortable, the people friendly, and best of all it wasn’t very crowded. Although I’m sure at times during the year visitors flock to the area.

Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument

The Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument is only 45 miles from Silver City, but it took us 2 hours. New Mexico Highway 15 (NM-15) twists and turns to the right and then to the left with hairpins that prevent driving more than 30 or 40 mph in many places. A long stretch of the road was narrow with no centerline and many blind curves making the way even slower. Be prepared for oncoming traffic. Some drivers cutting corners on those blind curves almost caused an accident. The road travels from desert to mountain pines increasing and decreasing in elevation until arriving at about 5,700 to 6,000 feet, the same elevation as where it began.

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View Across Gila National Forest

At the end of the road are a small visitor center, restrooms, and docents and rangers on hand to answer questions and direct visitors to the 1-mile loop trail to the dwellings. The well-maintained rustic trail skirted the Gila River and made me feel like I was walking in the footsteps of the people who built and lived in the dwellings.

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Visitor Center and Parking Lot with Bridge to the Trail

At the first view of the dwellings, I wondered what it was like seeing home after a long day working in the fields. Images of pottery filled with water, grain, berries, and other foodstuffs and baskets holding blankets and clothing popped up. Also, fresh baked bread or tortillas and the aroma of vegetables and meat stewing over smoldering coals. I could almost see two little boys running up and down the path in a game of chase.

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Approaching the Gila Cliff Dwellings
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Cave One Depicts Storage Areas, Hearth, Ash Pit, and Cooking Support

Through dendrochronology, (the study of tree ring growth patterns) archeologists dated the timbers used as headers in construction to the 1280s AD.

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About 80% of the Structure is Original. Others are Recreations.

I felt honored to have the opportunity to climb up and roam around the dwellings where the Mogollon Indians lived so many millenniums ago. The docents inside explained the different rooms and the prevailing or differing opinions of how they were used, creating an impression of life in the village.

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Evidence in Subterranean Rooms Suggest Their Use as Either Residences or Kivas
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View From Inside a Cave
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On to Another Cave
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The person in the middle of the photo gives a perspective of the cave’s size
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A Climb Down the Ladder is Included in Tour

On our way back to Silver City, we took NM-35, then US-180 back to our RV site. This made our excursion a loop around the Gila National Forest allowing us to see more of the terrain. This route adds 23 miles to the odometer, but the road is less windy and wider with a centerline the whole way. Perfect conditions that reduce the risk of a motion sickness flare up.

I’m so glad we were able to finally make it to the Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument. Now we are planning a trip to Colorado during the summer to see the cliff dwellings at Mesa Verde National Park.

Safe Travels

 

Abilene, Texas

We had originally planned on only one night in Abilene but decided to spend an extra day exploring. After paring our list of 10 adventures down to three, we started off by driving south 15 miles to the Buffalo Gap Historic Village, stopped at the Abilene State Park for a picnic lunch, and finished up the day at the 12th Armored ‘Hellcats’ Division Memorial Museum.

Buffalo Gap Historic Village

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Buffalo Gap Historic Village

Buffalo Gap Historic Village, a stop within the Texas Forts Trail Region, contains a grouping of 15 structures that depict life from the 1800s to the 1920s. The village began taking shape when Ernie Wilson purchased the original 1879 Taylor County Courthouse in 1956 to display his collection of artifacts and called it the “Ernie Wilson Museum of the Wild West.”

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1879 Brick Courthouse and Knight-Sayles Cabin

After adding other structures to the property over several decades, a couple of ownership changes, and a new name, Taylor County took ownership of the village grounds, buildings, and artifacts in February 2017, and the Taylor County History Center was formed to operate the museum and continue its mission.

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Entrance to the 1879 Taylor County Courthouse and Jail

The 1879 Taylor County Courthouse and Jail, opened in March 1880, to serve as the county seat of Taylor County. The brick construction includes cannonballs between the bricks to increase stability. Once Abilene became the county seat, the county sold the courthouse to a private party who turned it into a two-story home.

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Come Inside the 1879 Courthouse
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Recreated Courtroom

The Hill House is one of the first structures we entered on our tour through the decades. Tom Hill, Abilene’s first marshal at the age of 27, built the house in 1882 for $400. He and his wife Mollie lived there with their two children.

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Front Entrance to the Hill House

It seems there is a dispute about the details surrounding Hill’s death. Abilenescene.com describes a scuffle with an intoxicated saloon owner that caused the accidental shooting of Hill’s foot. They also report that Hill’s daughter told them he died of lockjaw a day later after the amputation of his big toe. An article in the Abilene Reporter-News on 08 April 1956 says Hill died in 1886 of gangrene after he was accidentally shot in the foot while on a hunting trip.

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Caution: Slanted Wall May Cause Dizziness

The village conducts ghost tours in October and the Hill House is reported to generate the most paranormal activity.

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The Hill House Kitchen
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Back Entrance to the Hill House

Knight-Sayles Cabin – Wilson reconstructed the cabin in 1964. James Malcolm Callaway Knight and his wife Susannah built the original cabin in 1875 where Lake Abilene is today. They raised six of their fifteen children in the cabin, cooking on an open fire outdoors. The fireplace and stove were used for warming the cabin.

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Inside the Knight-Sayles Cabin
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Construction Details of the Knight-Sayles Cabin

Buffalo Gap Post Office – built in 1950 by postmaster Charlie McDonald in his front yard when the postal service required post offices to be located in a freestanding building.

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First Free-Standing Buffalo Gap Post Office
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Inside First Free-Standing Buffalo Gap Post Office
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Postal Boxes in First Free-Standing Buffalo Gap Post Office

Clyde Train Depot, built in Clyde, Texas, cost $40,000 in 1905. The train shortened travel to another town from months to days. The ticket and waiting room portion of the original depot is in one location on the property while the baggage compartment portion is now the general store where the tour begins.

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Clyde Train Depot
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Ticket Counter Inside the Clyde Train Depot
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Segregated Waiting Rooms Inside the Clyde Train Depot

Cottonwood Flat School, originally located in Scurry County, cost $900 in 1930. Grades one through seven attended the school, while older students transferred to the high school in Snyder. After 1938, its use as a school terminated and the community used it to hold office elections and events. Moved to the cemetery for funerals in the 1950s, the building found its way to the village when it was donated in January 1989.

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Cottonwood Flat Two Room School Building

Buffalo Gap Chapel The Nazarene Church, built in 1906, is the oldest church in Taylor County that is still used today. After bees used the back wall as their home, parishioners named it The Sweet Church.

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Buffalo Gap Chapel
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Inside the Buffalo Gap Chapel
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Stain Glass Window Inside the Buffalo Gap Chapel
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Buffalo Gap Chapel Bell

Besides the Bourn Texaco Service Station (originally constructed in Winters), other buildings include a doctor’s office, barbershop, a wagon barn filled with historic vehicles, a bank, print shop, an art gallery, and a blacksmith shop.

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Dr. Pepper is Everywhere in Texas

With picnic tables, restrooms and a playground for children available, visitors have plenty to see and do as they experience life through the decades at Buffalo Gap Historic Village.

Abilene State Park

Having emerged from the 1920s to present day, we headed to the Abilene State Park to find a nice picnic spot. The 1930s Civilian Conservation Corps project includes a stone water tower and a swimming pool complex. Under a shady tree with a view of the complex was a great place to eat our lunch.

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Civilian Conservation Corp Swimming Pool Complex

With shore and boat ramp access to Lake Abilene, anglers can fish for catfish, largemouth bass, and crappie. Campers can find space for their tents or RVs and during the summer, visitors can splash around in the pool.

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Civilian Conservation Corp Swimming Pool Complex
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Detail of Brick Construction on the Civilian Conservation Corp Swimming Pool Complex

12th Armored Division Memorial Museum

The 12th Armored ‘Hellcats’ Division Memorial Museum, located at 1289 N. 2nd Street in Abilene, includes World War II artifacts, photos, weapons, uniforms, vehicles, dioramas, and a Holocaust memorial.

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12th Armored Division Memorial Museum

Much of the museum honors the soldiers attached to the 12th Armored ‘Hellcats’ Division who trained at Camp Barkeley, Texas, which was located 11 miles from Abilene. Construction on the training installation began in December 1940 and completed seven months later. Approximately 840 German prisoners of war were held at the location during 1944 and 1945. The base was then closed and the land reverted to the original landowners.

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One of the Armored Vehicles at the 12th Armored Division Memorial Museum
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Jeeps are but One Type of Vehicle at the 12th Armored Division Memorial Museum
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Track Road Wheels Waiting for Restoration
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One of the Exhibits at the 12th Armored Division Memorial Museum
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Field Office Tent and Radio Operator Exhibit
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One of the Model Depictions of a WW II Battle
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Model Depiction of a Battle Aftermath

We enjoyed our day exploring the outskirts of Abilene and the 12th Armored Division Memorial Museum in town. If we ever make our way through Abilene again, we’ll stay awhile, maybe find a spot at the State Park, scout around the historic buildings in town, and stop in at a restaurant or two. I’m sure we can find enough to keep us busy for a couple of days, or three, or four.

Safe Travels

 

The Space between Waco and Abilene, Texas

The Space between Waco and Abilene, Texas

A gothic building rose out of the landscape as we headed northwest from Waco to Abilene on Highway 6. Was it someone’s mansion? A government building? Or the façade of a movie set? We had to investigate.

Bosque County Courthouse

We wound our way through the streets of Meridian, Texas, to the building’s location. It wasn’t hard. No other buildings were close to its height. The downtown area was quiet and offered plenty of parking on Monday, March 12, 2018.

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Bosque County Courthouse

Not satisfied with clicking one photo of the building and moving on, I had to walk around the structure to catch its image from as many sides as possible given the position of the sun.

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Bosque County Courthouse

Oh, and I couldn’t forget to pick up the detail in the clocktower.

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Bosque County Courthouse Clock Tower

Now, we had to see the inside. We entered the Bosque County Courthouse from a back door expecting to see bailiffs staffing a security checkpoint complete with a scanning machine, the usual protocol for government buildings since 9/11.

Creeping along the dark hallway was like entering the early 1900s. The ceiling towered above us, wainscot the color of chocolate milk covered the lower part of the walls, pumpkin-colored paint on the upper portion. An ornate iron staircase loomed ahead. We turned a corner and finally arrived at a desk in the middle of the first floor.

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Staircase Original to the Building

“May I help you?” the bailiff asked. After explaining what we were doing there, the uniformed man proceeded to tell us the history of the building, told us to go see the courtroom upstairs, and gave us a little tour downstairs.

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Stairs to the Courtroom

I commented on the security difference from what we were used to seeing. He pointed to the four monitors at his desk where he watches people coming and going. He had seen us enter the back door. “It’s usually pretty quiet around here, not like in the larger counties,” he said.

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Hinges on the Doors

The town of Meridian has a population of less than 1,500 and less than 20,000 people call the agricultural county home.

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Once a Vault, Now a Restroom

Bosque County would be a great place to get away from congestion and crowds. Visitors can roam around the little country towns exploring museums, galleries, and historic buildings, or enjoy the fishing and other water activities at the Bosque or Brazos rivers, or Lake Whitney.

 Building Facts

Source: The Texas Historic Commission

  • Designed by Ft. Worth architect J.J. Kane
  • Oldest Texas courthouse building in continuous use
  • Three-story limestone in the Victorian Gothic Revival style
  • Two major renovations:
    • The 1934 WPA project replaced the entire roof structure with a flat concrete roof. The clock tower was removed replaced with a single clock face, and steel windows replaced the wood ones. Within the forty years after the WPA project, additional work had lowered ceilings to hide mechanical and electrical installations.
    • The rededication of the building on September 22, 2007, showcased the 2005-2007 restoration, which included reconstruction of the original clock tower and the four corner roof turrets, replacement of windows and doors with historic wood reproductions, restoring the ceilings to their original height in the courtroom, halls, and public spaces, and the reconstruction of wood wainscot paneling.

Dublin, Texas

It’s always serendipitous when we find a town with the same name as one in California. It turned out that our stomachs were growling when we arrived at the city limits of Dublin, Texas. We live near Dublin, California. Finding a spot to park posed no problem. The library was closed on Mondays.

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Dublin Public Library

The W.M. Wright Historical Park across the street provided a place to take a walk after lunch.

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W. M. Wright Historical Park
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Log Cabin Built by Early Settlers
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William T. Miller Gristmill Originally Built in 1882
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Rear of Gristmill Originally Powered by Steam then Converted by Crude Oil Engine
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Grass Always Tastes Better on the Other Side of the Fence

Spring break must have cleared most everyone out of town. There wasn’t much activity in the business district during the hour we were there.

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Dublin Rodeo Heritage Museum and Dublin Historical Museum

I wish we hadn’t been anxious to continue on to the  RV park in Abilene. It would have been nice to visit the Dublin Bottling Works that has been in business since 1891. They still bottle sodas made with pure cane sugar. No high fructose corn syrup for them. Poking around in the three museums—Ben Hogan (the golfer), Dublin Historical, and Dublin Rodeo Heritage—also would have been interesting.

RV Trouble

We arrived in Abilene around 4:00 p.m. and commenced our set up routine. After Jon had hooked up the sewer, water, and electricity, it was time to extend the living area slide. I heard a whirring sound, but the slide did not move. Uh-oh!

The good folks in the Whistle Stop RV Park office gave me a card for Young’s RV and Trailer Repair. Jon called at about 4:50 p.m. Yes, Rick could come out in about an hour. “Tomorrow morning would be okay.” “No, I’ll be there,” Rick said. Fortunately, it was a quick fix. A bolt had wiggled loose, which prevented the gear from engaging. Rick found the bolt, put it back in with some bailing wire so it wouldn’t back out again, and we had a freshly lubed and working slide. Thanks go out to Young’s RV and Trailer Repair in Abilene, Texas, for the best service ever. Find them on Facebook at Young’s RV Repair.

Next up we visit Buffalo Gap Historic Village, Abilene State Park, and the 12th Armored Division Memorial Museum.

Safe Travels