2023 Fall Adventure Part 4: William J. Clinton Presidential Library and Museum in Little Rock, Arkansas

What’s a measly four drive after taking several days to travel from California to Missouri? It seemed like a breeze in comparison. Our objective? To visit the William J. Clinton Presidential Center & Park where the Presidential Library and Museum are located.

We left Marshfield on Wednesday, September 20, 2023, and returned on Friday. The Wyndham Riverfront Little Rock hotel turned out to be a convenient place to stay, since it was across the Arkansas River from the museum.

The hotel shuttle driver took us on a short, guided tour of Little Rock on our way to the museum. He pointed out various historical locations like the Little Rock Central High School National Historic Site. This is where the first nine African American teenagers attempted to attend school in September 1957. The National Guard, as ordered by Governor Orval Faubus, turned the students away. President Dwight D. Eisenhower intervened, and the students later returned to attend classes. These individuals, known as the Little Rock Nine, persevered despite ongoing harassment from the students and the community. I admire their courage and determination to endure each day.

A steel and glass structure loomed ahead as our driver pulled up in front of the five-story building. The structure stretched 420 feet and was supported by 90-foot cantilevers. It looked more like a giant freight container than a presidential museum. I wondered if we made a mistake in telling the driver where to drop us off.

William J. Clinton Presidential Library and Museum. The art installation Cool Globes: Hot Ideas for a Cooler Planet dotted the grounds with twenty-six globes—each created by different artists—designed to raise awareness about climate change.

There was no mistake. Apparently, the architecture symbolically ties in with Clinton’s theme of building a bridge to the 21st century during his reelection campaign in 1996. In some respects, the building does resemble a bridge.

Inside, visitors will find the typical exhibits common in most presidential libraries and museums. They present a timeline of the president’s life from birth through the end of his presidency and even post presidency. The obligatory oval office and cabinet room are present as are gifts received and the first lady’s accomplishments.

Oval office as decorated during Clinton’s terms
The cabinet room. Note the middle chair on the right. It’s taller than the rest and is where the president sits.

What I found most impressive and different from other presidential library and museums is the exhibit and display areas. Two-story cherry bookcases stuffed with blue binders appear to support the third floor. Inside the blue binders are records generated during Clinton’s presidency. They only cover a small percentage of the approximately 78 million pages of paper documents and approximately 20 million e-mails. The archive library contains the remaining documents along with various artifact collections. As one who loves scurrying down rabbit holes when researching, I’m sure if I were to enter the archives I’d never come out.

View from the third floor

The inspiration for the bookcases was inspired by The Long Room in Trinity college Dublin, Ireland. Now I want to go to Dublin to see the Long Room in person. I checked. Tours of the room are included in the Book of Kells Experience. “Hey, Jon. Let’s book a trip to Ireland.”

Do you see the similarities?

Okay, back to Clinton and the museum. Here is but a smidgen of the photos I took. The glass walls created such a glare, I couldn’t capture all that caught my attention.

Fourteen of these alcoves run along either side of the timeline that runs the length of the second floor exhibit space.
Clinton oversaw a booming economy during his time in the White House
Hillary as first lady
Hillary Rodham and Bill Clinton at Yale Law School
All those young men in their class and Bill is the one that captured Hillary’s heart.
“My Future,” an essay by Hillary Rodham
Letter from Elton John to Mr. President
Edits made by Clinton to a speech
Aha! So this is when the current political nastiness began. Same old playbook repeating through the decades.

And yes, the museum does not shy away from Clinton’s dalliance with Ms. Lewinsky, or the impeachment. This is true of embarrassing events or criticisms experienced by other presidents in their respective museums. It’s all part of history and should not be hidden from future generations.

The third floor contained the collection of gifts received while Clinton was in office. This is one of my favorite exhibits in all of the presidential museums.

I wonder if Bill and Hillary ever rode the bikes.
Several Christmas decorations were displayed
I thought this piece of art was cute
Chihuly glass tree topper
Close up detail of glass tree topper
Of course, saxophones would hold a prominent space
Place setting used during a White House dinner

In August of 2023, the Clinton Foundation announced plans to expand the center to include an institute to house “personal archives and papers of Hillary Rodham Clinton and ‘serve as a hub’ for her charity and advocacy work.” Further details or more current information regarding the expansion did not pop up in a quick online search.

A walkway through the park led us to the Sturgis/Choctaw Railway Station where the University of Arkansas Clinton School of Public Service and the Center on Community Philanthropy are housed.

Historic Sturgis/Choctaw Railroad Station

Famished from our tour, we ducked into 42 bar and table, a restaurant on the ground floor. Bill Clinton was the 42nd President of The United States, hence the name of the restaurant. They serve lunch during the week and brunch on Saturday and Sunday.

Patio area of 42 bar and table
View of 42 bar and table from the Arkansas River Trail

With our bellies full, time had arrived for a walk along The Riverfront Trail and Park. We heard we might see sculptures, statues, and other art along the way.

Memorial to Cindy Coates Miller designed by Dale Enoch
Clinton Presidential Park Pedestrian Bridge crosses the Arkansas River. It was built in 1899 and previously known as the Rock Island Railroad Bridge. It reopened in 2011 after a renovation project turned it into a pedestrian pathway.

The park is 33-acres and spans the length of eleven blocks on the south bank of the Arkansas River and contains over 100 pieces of art. Here are but a few.

Belvedere Structure provides space for instrumental music performances. Constructed in 1986 to commemorate the sesquicentennial of Arkansas statehood.
Hula Hoop by Jane DeDecker
Patty Cake by Jane DeDecker
Margaret Clark Tree House designed for preschool-aged children
Twisted Circle by Kevin Trobaugh

While we waited for the streetcar for our trip back to the hotel, I thought the H. U. Lee International Gate and Garden might provide us with a respite from the heat. Unfortunately, the gates were closed, so we stewed in the heat and humidity instead.

H. U. Lee International Gate and Garden is a gift from South Korea to America as a symbol of friendship between the two countries.

It was definitely worth the drive to tick off the Clinton library and museum from our list. We have two more presidential libraries and museums coming up in our 2023 Fall Adventure: Gerald Ford and Herbert Hoover.

Next up: The state capitol of Missouri in Jefferson City

Safe Travels

2023 Fall Adventure Part 3: Wonders of Wildlife National Museum & Aquarium and Wild Animal Safari

 It’s all about the animals in part 3 of our 2023 Fall Adventure as we visit the Wonders of Wildlife National Museum & Aquarium and Wild Animal Safari.

 Johnny Morris’ Wonders of Wildlife National Museum & Aquarium

A popular outing in Springfield, Missouri, is the Wonders of Wildlife National Museum & Aquarium. Johnny Morris is the man behind the museum and aquarium. As majority owner of Great American Outdoors Group, he owns Bass Pro Shops and Cabela’s sporting goods and outdoor stores.

Located adjacent to the Bass Pro Shops National headquarters and store, Wonders of Wildlife operates as a not-for-profit educational conservation-themed attraction. It definitely should be at the top of any what-to-do-in-Springfield, Missouri list.

Wait a minute. Is that boat Ernest Hemingway’s Pilar? Can’t be. The original resides at the Museo Ernest Hemingway in Finca Vigia, Cuba. And I believe the Pilar sister boat is in the Bass Pro Shops in Islamorada, Florida. The boat in Springfield, Missouri, is a replica.

Massive murals throughout the facility depict various background scenery. It took six years and a dozen artists to paint all the murals.

One of the many hand-painted murals that add context to the displays

The current wildlife museum and aquarium opened to the public on September 22, 2017, after an $80 million expansion to 350,000 square foot facility. The project took a decade to complete.

The wildlife museum includes a Louisiana swamp, an Ozark forest, and an Amazon rainforest. The aquarium holds 1.5 million gallons (5.7 million liters) of water, and 35,000 individual fish, amphibians, reptiles, birds, and mammals call the museum and aquarium home.

Fishing gear and trophies

Throughout the aquarium are tunnels where kids and kids at heart can pop up and see what it’s like to have fish swimming around their heads.

Looks like fun
There’s Nemo

For guests craving a safe way to have a shark encounter, they can opt for the shark dive or shark dive feeding frenzy for ages 10 and up. There’s also a penguin encounter for ages four and up.

Shark dive pool
The turtles were fun to watch
Brightly-colored fish attract the eye
Graceful movements of jellyfish mesmerize
Sea anemones are always a hit
Sea stars (starfish) cling tight
Japanese spider crab has skinny legs

The Shipwreck Reef exhibit depicts how artificial reefs protect coral and boost tourism for diving and fishing. The Johnny Morris Offshore Angler Reef off the coast of Florida is such a reef. It contains the Sucre, a 237-foot vessel. A placard discusses the benefits the reefs provide to marine life and research opportunities.

Artificial reef exhibit
Albino Aligator sleeps all day

A sign outside the replica of the original Bass Pro Shops Store says the “original doors, cabinetry, lighting, fixtures, roof, ceiling, and aquarium” were used to create the replica. Morris began his bass fishing business at the back of his father’s liquor store in Springfield, Missouri.

Jackson imitates Uncle Buck, who made bass flies from sow bellies to sell in the original Bass Pros Store
Hall of artifact collections
I’d hate to meet up with one of these giants on a hike
Glimpsing Freedom: York’s Journey with the Corps of Discovery by Charles Fritz
One of many quotes throughout the museum
My, what big tusks you have

One section of the museum is dedicated to the various presidents who showed off their trout and bass fish catches.

Bass Pro Shops got its start within 8-square feet inside a liquor store for the first 13 years. For more history about Bass Pro Shops and Johnny Morris, visit https://about.basspro.com/our-founder. As of this writing, there are around 200 Bass Pro Shops in North America, each reflecting the community in which they were built, along with a commitment to community and conservation.

Taxidermy animals stand in for the live animals in the dioramas that depict their natural habitat.

Plan spending an hour or more to see the all the exhibits and displays. Our whole family enjoyed wandering around. And if hunger strikes, take a break and grab a bite to eat.

Wild Animal Safari Springfield/Strafford

Board a bus for a tour of the park and learn about the animals and their habits, or drive your vehicle through the park. Food is available for purchase to feed the animals. But watch out for the camels. They have no qualms about sticking their big heads in the window and stealing bags of food from the passengers. They are fast, as Jackson can attest to, as he was a victim of one of their attacks.

Our driver and guide regaled us with stories about the various animals

The safari contains sixty-five animal species along a five-mile trail within 350 acres of land. The animals have learned that food is on the way whenever the bus comes through. Some of them come running as if they hadn’t eaten for days, while others take their time ambling along to reach the bus. The bus driver always accommodated the slow pokes.

Don’t those eyes say, “please, feed me.”

For an additional fee, guests can arrange for an up close encounter with the animals, under the watchful supervision of a zookeeper, of course. These encounters allow small groups to learn about the animal’s habitat, feeding, and conservation efforts.

Animals taking their time to reach the bus. Note the drive-through vehicles. We thought it best to leave the driving to the bus driver.
Nice rack you got there

Be sure to read the safety considerations listed on the website to avoid any situations that might put the animals or people in danger.

Showing off the antlers
Don’t forget me.
I’ll have some, too.
Move along. I don’t want any of those little pellets.
Don’t mind me. I’ll just nibble on this fine grass here.
Too hot and tired to eat
We’ll take a pass and enjoy this here grass.
Mr. Stripey knows who butters his toast
Ponds keep the animals hydrated
Watch out for those teeth
Those are some long horns you’ve got there.
I’m a comin’

The safari also included a walkabout zoo. It was hard to take photos through the cages.

What did I do to deserve this?
Jackson and Maya say hello to the giraffe.

As we compared our experience at Wild Animal Safari to Safari West in Santa Rosa, California (see the Safari West post), we much preferred the one in California. Safari West comes out on top for its larger acreage, safari-like vehicles, and knowledgeable guides. They also had a better walk-around portion with more animals, birds, and vegetation. Although we still had fun at Wild Animal Safari.

Up Next: From Marshfield, Missouri, we take a side trip to Little Rock, Arkansas, and check out the Clinton Museum.

Safe Travels

2023 Fall Adventure Part 2: Around the Homestead and Local Area

Continuing with our travels in the fall of 2023, we shine a spotlight on Laura, our daughter, her family, and their homestead.

Jackson, Laura, Chris, Maya, and the chicks

Around the homestead

Their land is home to a variety of animals, from deer to frogs, mountain lions to turtles, various snakes, and other critters too many to mention. Other than hearing the frogs at night and seeing armadillo roadkill on the roadside, we saw a turtle outside our kitchen window one morning and waking up to chirping birds was also a treat.

Come out, little turtle.

During our visit, we could find Laura making bread, driving the tractor, shoveling dirt in her garden, tending to the chicks, or engaged in other household chores. She even removed a tick from my neck. I guess the beauty and the benefits of living off the land have chased away her fear of spiders, which once induced blood-curdling screams when she was a child. We’re proud of what she’s accomplished and how she’s carved out her space in the world.

Is the bread ready yet?
Seedlings are planted. Now we wait.
Beep, beep
Chris does most of the mowing
Waiting for birdies to make a home

The baby chicks not only fascinated us, they entertained us. We laughed as the baby chicks scratched around in the dirt, climbed over each other, ate their meals, and flicked dirt on themselves when taking dust baths.

Maya bonds with the chicks
Laura does her own bonding
Chicks in their brooder

Chris was under pressure to complete the chicken coop on wheels in time for the brood to move in. Fortunately, he made it on time.

Chicken coop frame
Ahh! More room in their new home.
Natty just wanted to nap
Jackson and Maya taking a break in the shade

We also enjoyed goofing around while grabbing a meal at Cafe Cusco on C-Street in Springfield, Missouri.

Great lunch at The Little Clay House Tea Room

Although there was plenty of work to do around the house, we managed to take time to explore a few sights while there.

Hidden Waters Nature Park

Nearby is Hidden Waters Nature Park, a segment of the Trail of Tears. Through journals, it was determined that in 1837 the B. B. Cannon group, composed of Cherokee Nation people, passed through the Hidden Waters acreage and used the spring to replenish their water supply.

The 11.3-acre park includes walking trails, ponds, gardens, and plenty more. The Callaway Cabin survived the devastating 1880 tornado and 170 years of development. The cabin stands as a reminder of the modest living pioneers carved out for themselves as they settled in Missouri.

The park is where fourteen springs provide a constant flow of water to the headwaters of the West Fork of the Niangua. After combining with several rivers and tributaries, the water flows into the Gulf of Mexico.

Planning for the park began in 1998 when Dan and Zoann Beckner purchased three acres of land in the center of Marshfield. The couple had something besides a planned housing development in mind for the property. They added a trail, built three bridges to cross the streams, and enlarged three of the natural ponds. Jack Watters, a city alderman, persuaded the city to establish the acreage as a park in 2003.

Come armed to repel mosquitoes. I was not prepared, and the pesky mosquitoes feasted on my legs and arms.

Downtown Marshfield

Our visit coincided with Marshfield’s Harvest Festival, which gave us a chance to check out the town square surrounding the Webster County courthouse. The town of approximately 7,600 had a good turnout, with vendors lining the sidewalk selling their wares, along with food and drink trucks offering refreshments. The music and singing added a lively energy to the atmosphere.

The entertainment

Memorials for those who lost lives during war times are a common site in any town, and Marshfield is not an exception.

War memorial

What’s that? The Hubble Space Telescope? How is it related to Marshfield, Missouri? A quick search revealed the telescope was named after Edwin Hubble who was born in Marshfield, Missouri, in 1889. It was his discovery and study of the Andromeda Nebula that led to the knowledge that the galaxy in which we live is but one galaxy among millions in the universe. Hubble also has a road named after him in Marshfield.

This Replica of the Hubble Telescope honors Edwin Hubble who was born in Marshfield, Missouri and is 1/4 the size of the actual Hubble still in space

And here are a couple shots of the downtown buildings.

Round Hay Bales

On our way back from the harvest festival, I saw something I’ve waited years to learn more about: round hay bales. I know, it’s silly, but all I ever saw were the cylinder-shaped boulders of hay in fields. I wanted to know how the farmers created those huge round bales. So we drove back to the farm where we saw the men and equipment working.

This piece of equipment rakes the cut hay into a long row.

Then another piece of equipment comes by and vacuums up the hay until it’s full. The equipment wraps a netting around the bale and . . .

Tractor pulling a round hay baler

Voila! Out pops a round hay bale.

Tractor pulling a hay baler

The bales can range from 1.2 to 1.8 meters wide and weigh up to 2,200 pounds (1,000 kg). One large round bale is equivalent to 10 – 15 square bales. Finally, my curiosity satisfied.

Beyond Marshfield

Fair Grove Heritage Reunion

A trip to Fair Grove Heritage Days sounded like a fun outing. The exhibits featured a demonstration of a McCormick threshing machine, a lineup of historic tractors, and another tractor with a pulley that might be a log splitter. I’m not sure.

Jon lends a hand

As with most community celebrations, vendors displayed their items for sale under canopies while others sold food or drinks. And the few stores that occupied the buildings had their doors open for business.

Something for everyone
Tractor row

The Duke School is named after the first teacher, Chatham Duke, who was known to use the rod a time or two during his tenure. The original schoolhouse was built in 1846.

Replica Duke School

The replica school building was reconstructed in 1979 from a log building once owned by Mr. Duke.

A peek inside the schoolhouse

I think the antique tractor with the pulley in the photo below had something to do with wood, perhaps log splitting? I noticed a bunch of split wood piled up in stacks.

Log splitter?

The heat finally got the best of us, so we didn’t stay too long. A few days later, Laura and I returned to Fair Grove to pick up a dresser she saw, and I spent a few minutes taking photos of the place without the crowds.

Old Mill Flea Market
Historical Society Museum
Womack Mill
Side view of the Womack Mill
Historic bank building

I wish the museum would have been open. I can only imagine what treasures hide behind the barn doors.

Askinosie Chocolate Candy Factory

It doesn’t matter how large or small a factory is; we are suckers for a tour of the facilities. The Askinosie Chocolate micro factory did not disappoint. They’re on the famous Commercial Street (also known as C Street) in Springfield, Missouri.

Chocolate time

Our guide led the way to where the cocoa beans arrive from around the world. They only use beans from small cocoa farmers who prioritize sustainability, following a Direct Trade approach.

Our guide explained the different types of chocolate and beans

We donned our hair nets before entering the processing section, where our guide detailed the purpose of each machine’s role.

We look mavalous!

On to the lab, where all the magic happens.

Guide explains the process
Magician at work
Waiting to taste samples

Although I had fun during the tour and found the information interesting, I don’t remember much about the process and that’s okay. I do remember how the chocolate felt on my tongue as it melted in my mouth. Oh, no. Now I have a craving. I better take a break from typing and order a supply of Askinosie chocolate bars.

After our tour, we checked out a couple of buildings nearby on C Street where visitors will find galleries, shops, dining, and regular events to explore.

Culture C-Street and Eurasia Coffee Co.
Cafe Cusco

Up Next: Wonders of Wildlife Museum & Aquarium, Wild Animal Safari, then a trip to the Clinton Presidential Library in Little Rock, Arkansas

Safe Travels

2023 Fall Adventure Part I: Travel to Marshfield, Missouri

The first destination on our 2023 Fall Adventure was Marshfield, Missouri, where our daughter, Laura, and her family had settled into their new home. Her hope chest didn’t fit in their moving pod when her husband, Chris, loaded up their belongings, so we volunteered to deliver it. We’d figure out where to go and what to see after the delivery once we made the 7-day trek.

We hit the road on Friday, September 8, 2023. After our awful experience with Interstate 40 during the spring, we opted for highways 50 and 70, also referred to as the Loneliest Road in America.

First stop Fallon Nevada. Thank goodness we missed the deluge that disrupted the Burning Man event 120 miles to the north of us. Then on to Ely Nevada. The wide shoulder outside Austin, Nevada, was a perfect place to take a break. I would have preferred to walk over and explore the gravesites and monuments at the nearby Austin Cemetery. Instead, I snapped a shot from afar. The cemetery earned distinction on the National Register of Historic Places in 2003.

Jon bundled the hope chest inside blankets, covered it with a tarp,
and secured it to the rear hitch rack.
Austin Cemetery

We stopped in Eureka, Nevada, and ate delicious giant burgers at the Owl Club Bar and Steakhouse for lunch. I noticed a recurring theme of red paint with white trim on buildings around town. I imagined a group of people with ladders, brushes, and rollers roaming around, painting the town red.

Owl Club Bar and Steakhouse
Eureka historic buildings
Closed sign on the tourist information door.
1879 Court House

The beautiful canyon we drove through from Ely to Green River nearly made me cry. The painted cliffs in rust and orange and yellow were every bit as majestic from the passenger seat as it would have been up close.

On the way to our next stop, we encountered a contrast to the terrain from what we saw in Utah. The Utah rock gave way to cliffs clothed in grasses, bushes, and trees.

And then we gawked at the architectural genius that skirted the cliff like a tutu. Was it really westbound Interstate 70 up there?

Whoa, is that the interstate?

On paper, Denver West/City Center KOA seemed an easy side trip to avoid afternoon traffic in the big city. If I’d only known about the altitude, I might have chosen another location. While Denver sits at an elevation of 5,280 feet, the KOA is nearly 8,500 feet. Although we both had trouble navigating the hill from and to the fifth wheel and the store, it was the hot steamy shower that did me in. The combination of the steam and altitude had me gasping for breath. Note to self, don’t take a steamy hot shower in high altitude.

The hill to the store was steeper than it looks here

On September 12, 2023, we selected Wakeeney, Kansas, for our next stop, halfway between Denver and Kansas City.

We cut it close—I was driving, so I should say I cut it close—the next day when we (I) pulled into the fuel station with only 1.12 gallons of diesel left in the tank. Yikes!

While eating a late breakfast, at Cracker Barrel of course, we discussed finding a spot to stay the night or continue on to Marshfield, Missouri. The back-to-back long drives had worn me down, so I voted to press forward and make our trip six days instead of seven. Jon preferred to park and start off early in the morning. Trading off driving duty made it possible for us to make it all the way through. We won’t do that again soon. Seven hours on the map usually means eight or nine hours after stopping for food and fuel.

As the sun dropped below the horizon, we pulled into C&L Homestead and placed the trailer beside Chris’ workshop. I was so thankful we pushed through because we had two weeks ahead of us without packing and moving down the highway.

Finally, C & L Homestead

Up Next: A look around the homestead and the local area.

Safe Travels