2023 Summer Solstice Adventure La Paz California Sur – Part 4

On June 6, 2024May 28, 2024 By LToddIn La Paz, Mexico, Travel2 Comments

We come to the final part of the La Paz series. This one might make you hungry. One of the most enjoyable parts of traveling to a new destination is the abundance of food available to sample and taste. And we had plenty to choose from during our stay.

Restaurants

Draft House at the Oakland Airport is our go to eatery when leaving town in the wee hours of the morning. They have made to order egg dishes and other offerings which taste like real food, unlike the preprepared cellophane wrapped grab and go collections.

Our first meal in La Paz consisted of tacos and beer at Restaurantes Bizmark. Seafood is their specialty.

While we feasted on more tacos and beer at La Parrilla Esterito Grill & Beer Taqueria, the mosquitos feasted on my legs. When in La Paz, eat tacos, drink beer, and fight off mosquitos. Instead of, “where’s the beef,” I had to ask, “where’s the veggies?”

There was only one stall at the Farmer’s Market with veges and fruit, so we shared a few empanadas. Perhaps we arrived too late.

The Aramburo Supermercado was where we bought most everything we needed to prepare and cook meals at the house. We might not have found what we needed the first time we walked the aisles, but success was ours on the second or third time around the store.

We passed Las Chascas de Maria Elotes several times on our walks. They often had a long line out the door late in the evening. We thought they sold ice cream or yogurt. Instead, they offered savory corn and fries and chips topped with bacon, grasshoppers, or other unique crunchy things.

At La Peregrina Restaurantes I was hankering for something refreshing to drink so I tried a mojito. Mojito is now my go-to drink. Even the virgin version is cooling and satisfying. They also served up delicious food and deserts to die for.

Arriving early for our dinner at Casamarte we felt special sitting on the porch as we looked out onto the ocean and sunset beyond the malecon.

The service at Los 32 Sabores was superbly attentive, and the food held its own with the competition.

One late afternoon, we clamored to leave the house for an early dinner even though the heat and humidity had not yet dissipated. We found El Zarape’s with advertised air conditioning and an open sign on the door. We ducked inside to cool off and enjoyed a pleasant meal and great service.

It was a battle picking between La Mentita and El Azteca for breakfast. El Azteca won the debate. We’ll have to visit La Mentita next time.

Chilaquiles, omelets, baguettes, hot cakes, juices, and blended drinks and plenty more gave us plenty to choose from. I enjoyed the fruit plate.

For a group of foodies like us, La Paz offered plenty of places to choose from. We didn’t eat all our meals out, though. Jon, Bailey, and Kevin took turns showing off their culinary skills and supplementing our restaurant meals while I washed dishes.

Captain’s Sunset Sail

Our 2-1/2 hour catamaran tour of the bay on July 4 took off from the Marina Palmira in front of Captains’ Sunset Bar. Included were Margaritas, rum punch, and other drinks along with plenty of fruit and tasty appetizer bites prepared onboard to enjoy with our drinks, while lively music played through the speakers.

The best part was meeting the other guests. Many of them were expats from the US who are spending their retirement days in the city or part timers with a plan to do the same.

One woman told us about the different developments on shore. One such story was of a structure that looked half finished. Apparently, construction stopped midway when the building conflicted with the design of the road. So, there it sits. A hunk of concrete. Sullying the view of the beach.

The quiet, relaxing atmosphere grew in excitement when dolphins came to play around the catamaran.

At the end of the cruise, the crew invited us back to Captain’s Sunset Bar where they served dinner for free to all in attendance. Drinks were extra, of course. The celebration was in honor of the United States Independence Day. A classic rock band played live and a whole lot of dancing ensued. It was an event they do every year as a thank you to the locals, yachties, and expats.

And that concludes our time in La Paz. We braved the heat and made the best of it by staying cool in the pool in the afternoon, joining the festivities on the Malecon in the evenings, or relaxing in the air-conditioned house we rented. And of course, filling ourselves with wonderful Mexican food and deserts. If we return in the future, I think a spring or fall adventure would be in order.

Up Next: Our Fall 2023 Adventure back to Missouri in our new trailer.

Safe Travels

2023 Summer Solstice Adventure La Paz California Sur – Part 3

On May 30, 2024May 27, 2024 By LToddIn TravelLeave a comment

In this post we visit an art museum, a history museum, and meet up with a guide who took us on an art walk.

Museo de Arte de Baja California Sur

Inaugurated in November 2020 in coordination with the Museum of Modern Art of Mexico City. The building is the first space in the south Baja Californian territory dedicated and equipped to receive, mount, and show modern and contemporary art. Included is a room dedicated to South Baja Californian art.

The exhibit room upstairs was in the process of installation, so we missed out seeing more of what the museum had to offer. One area of the museum depicted local and indigenous life.

Another exhibit presented art by Ander and Ferlun honoring the Mexican equivalent of America’s World Wrestling Entertainment.

Lucheria Nacional El Arte De La Lucha Libre Mexicana
Ander +Ferlun Exhibit

“Basados en las obras pictoricas Demon, La Leyenda de Plata y El Mil” by Ferlun

The character’s eyes in this painting seemed to follow me wherever I was in the room. Even through the mask, I detected an innocence that belied the costume. Those who draw him as a foe, must stay alert to foil any attacks.

And then there were the interactive, colorful, and inspirational paintings by Ivan Guarderrama Torres which lifted my spirits as I examined each one. Scanning the image to the right of the painting combined technology with another perspective of the art on the wall. It was fun seeing how the painting came to life.

Messages of Love, Faith, and Hope by Ivan Guarderrama Torres

Below is the side of the art museum’s building lit up bright with street lamps, attracting photographers documenting such milestones as quinceaneras.

Regional Museum of Anthropology and History of Baja California Sur (Museo de Antropologia e Historia de Baja California Sur)

The peninsula history from ancient times to the start of 20^th century is documented within four rooms of the museum through artifacts, murals, dioramas, and narratives. Originally founded in March 1981, the newly renovated space reopened on December 10, 2018.

We wound our way through the exhibit space starting with the first room that discussed the ancient peoples who lived on the land and continued learning about the first European contact and the development of the Jesuit missionaries.

Dioramas gave a sense of how the people lived in their environment

The Spanish encountered four main ethnic groups upon their arrival. The Pericues between Cabo San Lucas and La Paz, the Guaycuras north of the Pricu to Loreto, the Monquis near Loreto and Cochimi in the middle of the peninsula. All were hunter gatherers without agriculture or metal working, but they did produce pottery. They also fished, but only the Pericues had rafts.

These columns are from the 1700s and thought to be part of an altarpiece
of a missionary church

The Baja California Sur covers the southern portion of Baja California. La Paz is the state’s capitol. It became the 31st state of Mexico in October 1974. It was previously the south territory of lower California.

Life sized diorama depicting a ranch hand

On the opposite side of the walkway is the rancher’s home

The last room depicts the great social movements: Mexico’s independence from the Spanish Empire, the interventions, the Mexican-American War (1846-1848), resulting in the US capturing Mexico City in September 1847 and subsequent Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo in 1848. La Reforma (1850s and 1860s, resulting in a new constitution of 1857), the dictatorial rule of Porfiriato (1884-1911), and events of the 20th century are also discussed.

Although I was able to comprehend the meaning of the displays through translation, I felt I missed out on more detailed information printed in Spanish on the many posters. Knowing how to read Spanish would have been a big help.

Art Walk Tour Cut Short

Early one morning before breakfast and before the heat of the day began in earnest, we joined Amélie Padioleau for an art walk. Amélie is a French anthropologist, journalist, and sailor who has lived in La Paz for the past 10 years. Her bio states, “She collects mythological stories, sea legends, but also true facts about fishermen and local heroes with the courage to rethink their life around sustainability and conservation.”

We met Amélie in front of the Peach Bakery and Coffee Shop. We had hoped to grab a pastry and drink before our tour started. Sadly, it was closed.

We were excited to learn the stories behind some of the many murals we saw around the city center. Her talk focused on murals painted in 2013 and those murals created under the Cuidad Mural project in 2017 initiated by Colectivo Tomate. For this project, 25 artists were invited to “paint stories of the community on the walls of the city.”

Her passion for La Paz, the murals, the artists, and the stories the murals represent came through in her presentation and I enjoyed hearing about the murals and their creators.

We started out in the shade created between the multi-story commercial buildings. At one point, we stood in full sun for several minutes admiring a series of paintings, then moved on to find shade while we admired another mural.

By then the heat an humidity was becoming oppressive and Jon was finding it necessary to find a place to sit down. When I saw Jon nod off while he sat on a concrete block, I rushed to keep him from falling. With him slumped over, clammy skin, and eyes rolled back in his head, we couldn’t rouse him from his slumber.

Amélie, said get a wet towel. We didn’t have one. Bailey stripped off her T-shirt, wet it with her water bottle, and draped it over his shoulders. Still no response. Amélie uncapped her water bottle and poured it over Jon’s head.

Finally, Jon stirred awake, a smile on his face. A young-boy smile all proud of himself. He had no idea he’d passed out.

We apologized to Amélie and thanked her for the tour, then called a Didi to take us to the house. Walking back wasn’t a good idea. A cool dip in the pool, a plate of breakfast, and a few hours of rest, chased the heat exhaustion away and returned our big guy to normal. Well, at least his normal.

As I look at the photos today, I can appreciate how the artists incorporated the La Paz history and themes into their creations with the sea and desert playing a large part in the stories the art reveals. If we make it back to La Paz someday, I’d like to take the tour again.

Next up: A sunset sail and restaurants that enticed us in for a meal.

Safe Travels

2023 Summer Solstice Adventure La Paz, California Sur – Part 2

On May 16, 2024May 15, 2024 By LToddIn La Paz, Mexico, Photography, Travel2 Comments

We continue our visit to La Paz with a look at the sights we saw around town, plus a guided hike, breakfast, and beach time.

Sights Seen About Town

Murals and architecture, both new and old, gave us a glimpse into the history and lives of the locals. Walking, as our main mode of transportation around town, allowed us an up-close view of the newly renovated or constructed buildings and structures in their last days of decay and everything in between. Each building—some enhanced with painted murals—provided unique personalities my camera lens could not ignore.

The contrast between daylight and nighttime tells a whole different story about the the building.

Oh, the music and dance and stories told here over the past century

Museo de Arte de la Ciudad de La Paz at night

Did I mention the metal basket on the left is where trash goes for pickup?

How did the stone mason make those cutouts?

The peeling paint and sidewalk debris of long-closed businesses often contrasted with the brightly colored storefronts and swept sidewalks.

This was an interesting little park and a great place to stop and cool off in the shade near the water feature. Coro en Armonia (Choir in Harmony) was created by Benito Ortega Vargas. Each mask appears to sing a different note of the musical scale.

Jon and Kevin enjoy the coolness of Piedras y Pajaros

Smile, You’re on Candid Camera.

If we stood long enough under one of these cameras, we could see the face rotate. I pictured someone in a basement somewhere watching a bank of monitors for any trouble that might pop up.

A house squished between two commercial buildings.

The news stand was closed when we walked by

It looked like this building was under renovation.

A private room in Villa Lorena is listed as an Airbnb property

Looks like this house has a courtyard off the sidewalk

If it hadn’t been so hot, I could have walked for hours taking photos of unique and interesting sites.

Rancho San Lorenzo Guided Hike and Organic Breakfast

We got up early for our Rancho San Lorenzo Guided Hike and Organic Breakfast at a working ranch. A rental car—picked up the night before—was required for us to make the trip to the tip of the peninsula north of La Paz. At 9:00 am, we piled out of the car to meet our guide Eduardo (Lalo) Mendez, from Guadalajara.

The 1,000-acre desert ranch and preserve are populated with wild and tamed animals alike. Siting between the Coyote Mountains and the Sea of Cortez, there’s plenty of diverse terrain for the animals to roam. Rabbits, foxes, deer, and the occasional mountain lion have the run of the place, while goats, donkeys, horses, chickens, and ostriches are safe, cozy, and well-fed in their respective pens or corrals.

Lalo, gave us an option for a strenuous hike or one less strenuous. We agreed the less strenuous would be best, since I was still nursing my broken wrist and wearing the brace just in case I might fall. Along the trail, Lalo would stop to point out rock formations in the mountains and hills, small caves, and the local flora and fauna, or talk about the history.

Desert flora is tricky. From far away it looks dead.

Even delicate florals survive in the desert

Steer clear of the cholla. It’s everywhere and known to jump and hang on.

We spied a variety of birds in the sky or resting on desert cactus. The vultures were most interesting as they found their perch atop the spikey Mexican cardón, or elephant cactus. Lalo was quick to tell us these saguaro look-alikes are another species entirely. The cardón can grow double the height and weight compared to their cousins to the north and live nearly twice as long.

We stopped to rest and hydrate at a mesa that overlooked the sea before turning back to the ranch house where breakfast waited for us.

The cardóns are ready to bloom. Not sure what the orange flowers are.

“See how the nurse bush protects the cardón?”

The pads may look soft and fuzzy, they are not.

On the outdoor patio, fresh squeezed orange and guava juice and plates of fresh fruit (pineapple, papaya, mango, plantains, grapes, cantaloupe) was the first course of our colossal breakfast. Then came the creamy beans, eggs, machaca, toast, and handmade tortillas. It was the best breakfast ever after a hike. Oh, and to top it all off, they brought Jon a giant slice of chocolate cake for his birthday. We all helped him eat it.

One would think the guided hike and the breakfast were enough for the day. But no, there was more. Included with the hike was a trip to the beach. Two rancheros loaded up a trailer with a cabana, chairs, kayak, paddle board, and drove us along a dirt back road to the beach. We stayed a few hours sinking our toes in the sand, wading and swimming in the warm water, and watching the pelicans patrol above us.

Hikes and breakfast are not all Rancho San Lorenzo offers its guests. How about a morning horseback ride and breakfast, or a sunset horseback ride and dinner? There’s also a house that accommodates 12 people, or select the smaller one that accommodates 4.

Up next: We have two more parts to wrap up our La Paz adventure. We’ll look at the art and history museums, an art walk, restaurants, and a sunset sail.

Safe Travels

2023 Summer Solstice Adventure La Paz, Baja California Sur – Part 1

On April 19, 2024April 18, 2024 By LToddIn La Paz, Mexico, Photography, Travel3 Comments

A 13-day trip to La Paz, Baja California Sur? During the 2023 summer solstice? Were we crazy?

The promise of super-hot days could not deter us from accepting an invitation from our son, Kevin, and his partner, Bailey.

Waiting at Dublin/Pleasanton BART Station on our way to Oakland Airport for a flight to San Diego

The Flight

On June 22, 2023, we breezed through Cross Boarder Express (CBX) and Aeropuerto Internacional de Tijuana with Spanish-speaking Bailey leading the way and telling us what to do and when. Had Jon and I been traveling on our own, we might have ended up in La Paz, Bolivia, instead of Mexico.

A recording delivered safety instructions and announcements over the speakers in both Spanish and English during the nearly two-hour Volaris Airline flight. The flight attendants served us snacks and drinks and made us feel welcome. Be forewarned, Uber, or DiDi as it’s called in La Paz, can’t pick up arriving passengers at the airport. It’s either rent a car, take a taxi, or public transportation. We took a taxi because our accommodations were in a central location so we could walk most places.

The House

Turning on the air conditioning was the first order of business when we arrived at the house. The two-bedroom, two-bath home included a functioning kitchen, living and dining area. A courtyard in the back provided a pool, desert landscaping, mood lighting and gecko plaques on the brick wall. This was going to suit us just fine.

Dining – kitchen to the left – bedroom entrances at the back

Don’t drink water from the tap – bottled water is for cooking and drinking.

The kitchen contained all the essentials for meal preparation and eating

The sounds of cooing doves serenaded us in the morning and throughout the day. While out by the pool we’d watch groups of female frigates with their white throats and males sporting a patch of red on their chest fly around in circles above us in the sky. Lizards popped out every once in a while, and Bailey saw a little gecko.

While in La Paz, we learned pretty quick to do as the locals do. Mornings are for working or exploring, afternoons are for resting and staying calm and cool. Reading while submerged in the pool became a daily favorite pastime.

The Malecon

On our first visit to the Malecon we found a sleepy and quiet atmosphere in the late afternoon. The ocean water lapped ashore in a lazy fashion. Few automobiles or trucks drove past. And it seemed like we had the street all to ourselves. We found a restaurant open with only a few other tables occupied and most of the staff standing around talking among themselves.

Plenty of seating to dine al fresco in the afternoon heat

Art aficionados will enjoy walking along the waterfront boardwalk where many of the city’s sculptures live. I tried my best to restrain my camera from capturing them all, which was my intent when I found the first one.

La Paz was so enamored with Jacque Cousteau, who led expeditions in the area, the government renamed an island after him, much to the displeasure of some. There are also at least two sculptures of him and other references made that honor him. In 2009, Isla Cerralvo became Isla Jacques Cousteau. He’s noted as calling the sea surrounding La Paz, “the world’s aquarium.”

When the sun goes down, the breeze comes up, and the heat of the day subsides. This is when the Malecon comes alive no matter the day of the week. Patrons crowd into restaurants where the aroma of spiced grilled meat and other tasty bites waft from kitchens. Music blares from cars cruising along the road, causing a traffic jam, which the drivers seem to relish.

Kids and adults pedal rented carts or ride bicycles between the yellow bumpers and the curb. Families, teens, and grandparents, some with dogs, walk or jog along the concrete boardwalk, or find a bench to sit awhile. The temperature drops a few feet out on the pier, cooling our skin. And a few feet up on the top the kiosco we gain a different perspective of the scene.

Restaurant where we ate our first meal the day we arrived

On one night, music blared from the Kiosco del Malecon. It was a “rap off” contest and some of the performers were quite talented.

The sculpture below commemorates when Queen Elizabeth and Prince Phillip visited La Paz as part of their official visit to Mexico on February 22, 1983. Apparently, the pearl in the queen’s crown came from La Paz, which had a thriving pearl industry until commercial divers depleted the oyster beds. And then by 1941, there were none.

On another night, a game of rollerblade broomball was in progress. The players expressed their joy with lots of laughter and smiles.

On our last night in La Paz, we searched for something fun to do. So we rented two bikes and two carts and rode up and down most of the 3.5 miles of the Malecon. I felt like a little kid. With the warm wind in my face I pedaled along, dodging bicyclists and joggers, and stopping for pedestrians in crosswalks.

Can you tell we had fun? The Malecon was one big family party for tourists and locals alike that energized me every night we joined the chaos.

Next up: A guided hike, breakfast, and beach time; a sunset sail; art and anthropology museums; sights seen about town; and restaurants. This will take two or three more parts.

Safe Travels

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