2023 Fall Adventure Part I: Travel to Marshfield, Missouri

The first destination on our 2023 Fall Adventure was Marshfield, Missouri, where our daughter, Laura, and her family had settled into their new home. Her hope chest didn’t fit in their moving pod when her husband, Chris, loaded up their belongings, so we volunteered to deliver it. We’d figure out where to go and what to see after the delivery once we made the 7-day trek.

We hit the road on Friday, September 8, 2023. After our awful experience with Interstate 40 during the spring, we opted for highways 50 and 70, also referred to as the Loneliest Road in America.

First stop Fallon Nevada. Thank goodness we missed the deluge that disrupted the Burning Man event 120 miles to the north of us. Then on to Ely Nevada. The wide shoulder outside Austin, Nevada, was a perfect place to take a break. I would have preferred to walk over and explore the gravesites and monuments at the nearby Austin Cemetery. Instead, I snapped a shot from afar. The cemetery earned distinction on the National Register of Historic Places in 2003.

Jon bundled the hope chest inside blankets, covered it with a tarp,
and secured it to the rear hitch rack.
Austin Cemetery

We stopped in Eureka, Nevada, and ate delicious giant burgers at the Owl Club Bar and Steakhouse for lunch. I noticed a recurring theme of red paint with white trim on buildings around town. I imagined a group of people with ladders, brushes, and rollers roaming around, painting the town red.

Owl Club Bar and Steakhouse
Eureka historic buildings
Closed sign on the tourist information door.
1879 Court House

The beautiful canyon we drove through from Ely to Green River nearly made me cry. The painted cliffs in rust and orange and yellow were every bit as majestic from the passenger seat as it would have been up close.

On the way to our next stop, we encountered a contrast to the terrain from what we saw in Utah. The Utah rock gave way to cliffs clothed in grasses, bushes, and trees.

And then we gawked at the architectural genius that skirted the cliff like a tutu. Was it really westbound Interstate 70 up there?

Whoa, is that the interstate?

On paper, Denver West/City Center KOA seemed an easy side trip to avoid afternoon traffic in the big city. If I’d only known about the altitude, I might have chosen another location. While Denver sits at an elevation of 5,280 feet, the KOA is nearly 8,500 feet. Although we both had trouble navigating the hill from and to the fifth wheel and the store, it was the hot steamy shower that did me in. The combination of the steam and altitude had me gasping for breath. Note to self, don’t take a steamy hot shower in high altitude.

The hill to the store was steeper than it looks here

On September 12, 2023, we selected Wakeeney, Kansas, for our next stop, halfway between Denver and Kansas City.

We cut it close—I was driving, so I should say I cut it close—the next day when we (I) pulled into the fuel station with only 1.12 gallons of diesel left in the tank. Yikes!

While eating a late breakfast, at Cracker Barrel of course, we discussed finding a spot to stay the night or continue on to Marshfield, Missouri. The back-to-back long drives had worn me down, so I voted to press forward and make our trip six days instead of seven. Jon preferred to park and start off early in the morning. Trading off driving duty made it possible for us to make it all the way through. We won’t do that again soon. Seven hours on the map usually means eight or nine hours after stopping for food and fuel.

As the sun dropped below the horizon, we pulled into C&L Homestead and placed the trailer beside Chris’ workshop. I was so thankful we pushed through because we had two weeks ahead of us without packing and moving down the highway.

Finally, C & L Homestead

Up Next: A look around the homestead and the local area.

Safe Travels

2023 Summer Solstice Adventure La Paz California Sur – Part 4

We come to the final part of the La Paz series. This one might make you hungry. One of the most enjoyable parts of traveling to a new destination is the abundance of food available to sample and taste. And we had plenty to choose from during our stay.

Restaurants

Draft House at the Oakland Airport is our go to eatery when leaving town in the wee hours of the morning. They have made to order egg dishes and other offerings which taste like real food, unlike the preprepared cellophane wrapped grab and go collections.

Our first meal in La Paz consisted of tacos and beer at Restaurantes Bizmark. Seafood is their specialty.

While we feasted on more tacos and beer at La Parrilla Esterito Grill & Beer Taqueria, the mosquitos feasted on my legs. When in La Paz, eat tacos, drink beer, and fight off mosquitos. Instead of, “where’s the beef,” I had to ask, “where’s the veggies?”

There was only one stall at the Farmer’s Market with veges and fruit, so we shared a few empanadas. Perhaps we arrived too late.

The Aramburo Supermercado was where we bought most everything we needed to prepare and cook meals at the house. We might not have found what we needed the first time we walked the aisles, but success was ours on the second or third time around the store.

We passed Las Chascas de Maria Elotes several times on our walks. They often had a long line out the door late in the evening. We thought they sold ice cream or yogurt. Instead, they offered savory corn and fries and chips topped with bacon, grasshoppers, or other unique crunchy things.

At La Peregrina Restaurantes I was hankering for something refreshing to drink so I tried a mojito. Mojito is now my go-to drink. Even the virgin version is cooling and satisfying. They also served up delicious food and deserts to die for.

Arriving early for our dinner at Casamarte we felt special sitting on the porch as we looked out onto the ocean and sunset beyond the malecon.

The service at Los 32 Sabores was superbly attentive, and the food held its own with the competition.

One late afternoon, we clamored to leave the house for an early dinner even though the heat and humidity had not yet dissipated. We found El Zarape’s with advertised air conditioning and an open sign on the door. We ducked inside to cool off and enjoyed a pleasant meal and great service.

It was a battle picking between La Mentita and El Azteca for breakfast. El Azteca won the debate. We’ll have to visit La Mentita next time.

Chilaquiles, omelets, baguettes, hot cakes, juices, and blended drinks and plenty more gave us plenty to choose from. I enjoyed the fruit plate.

For a group of foodies like us, La Paz offered plenty of places to choose from. We didn’t eat all our meals out, though. Jon, Bailey, and Kevin took turns showing off their culinary skills and supplementing our restaurant meals while I washed dishes.

Captain’s Sunset Sail

Our 2-1/2 hour catamaran tour of the bay on July 4 took off from the Marina Palmira in front of Captains’ Sunset Bar. Included were Margaritas, rum punch, and other drinks along with plenty of fruit and tasty appetizer bites prepared onboard to enjoy with our drinks, while lively music played through the speakers.

The best part was meeting the other guests. Many of them were expats from the US who are spending their retirement days in the city or part timers with a plan to do the same.

One woman told us about the different developments on shore. One such story was of a structure that looked half finished. Apparently, construction stopped midway when the building conflicted with the design of the road. So, there it sits. A hunk of concrete. Sullying the view of the beach.

The quiet, relaxing atmosphere grew in excitement when dolphins came to play around the catamaran.

At the end of the cruise, the crew invited us back to Captain’s Sunset Bar where they served dinner for free to all in attendance. Drinks were extra, of course. The celebration was in honor of the United States Independence Day. A classic rock band played live and a whole lot of dancing ensued. It was an event they do every year as a thank you to the locals, yachties, and expats.

And that concludes our time in La Paz. We braved the heat and made the best of it by staying cool in the pool in the afternoon, joining the festivities on the Malecon in the evenings, or relaxing in the air-conditioned house we rented. And of course, filling ourselves with wonderful Mexican food and deserts. If we return in the future, I think a spring or fall adventure would be in order.

Up Next: Our Fall 2023 Adventure back to Missouri in our new trailer.

Safe Travels

2023 Summer Solstice Adventure La Paz California Sur – Part 3

In this post we visit an art museum, a history museum, and meet up with a guide who took us on an art walk.

Museo de Arte de Baja California Sur

Inaugurated in November 2020 in coordination with the Museum of Modern Art of Mexico City. The building is the first space in the south Baja Californian territory dedicated and equipped to receive, mount, and show modern and contemporary art. Included is a room dedicated to South Baja Californian art.

Museo de Arte de Baja California Sur

The exhibit room upstairs was in the process of installation, so we missed out seeing more of what the museum had to offer. One area of the museum depicted local and indigenous life.

Another exhibit presented art by Ander and Ferlun honoring the Mexican equivalent of America’s World Wrestling Entertainment.

Lucheria Nacional El Arte De La Lucha Libre Mexicana
Ander +Ferlun Exhibit
“Basados en las obras pictoricas Demon, La Leyenda de Plata y El Mil” by Ferlun
“La Lucha Sufrida” by Ander
“Cyber Man” by Ferlun
“La Lucharia National” by Ander

The character’s eyes in this painting seemed to follow me wherever I was in the room. Even through the mask, I detected an innocence that belied the costume. Those who draw him as a foe, must stay alert to foil any attacks.

El Mil

And then there were the interactive, colorful, and inspirational paintings by Ivan Guarderrama Torres which lifted my spirits as I examined each one. Scanning the image to the right of the painting combined technology with another perspective of the art on the wall. It was fun seeing how the painting came to life.

Messages of Love, Faith, and Hope by Ivan Guarderrama Torres

Below is the side of the art museum’s building lit up bright with street lamps, attracting photographers documenting such milestones as quinceaneras.

Regional Museum of Anthropology and History of Baja California Sur (Museo de Antropologia e Historia de Baja California Sur)

The peninsula history from ancient times to the start of 20th century is documented within four rooms of the museum through artifacts, murals, dioramas, and narratives. Originally founded in March 1981, the newly renovated space reopened on December 10, 2018.

Welcome

We wound our way through the exhibit space starting with the first room that discussed the ancient peoples who lived on the land and continued learning about the first European contact and the development of the Jesuit missionaries.

Ancient peoples celebrating?
Flora and fauna of the territory
Dioramas gave a sense of how the people lived in their environment
Burial grounds
Pictographs
Arrival of the Spanish

The Spanish encountered four main ethnic groups upon their arrival. The Pericues between Cabo San Lucas and La Paz, the Guaycuras north of the Pricu to Loreto, the Monquis near Loreto and Cochimi in the middle of the peninsula. All were hunter gatherers without agriculture or metal working, but they did produce pottery. They also fished, but only the Pericues had rafts.

Missionary objects
These columns are from the 1700s and thought to be part of an altarpiece
of a missionary church
Detail of altarpiece
Sextant and rifle
Diorama of a mission

The Baja California Sur covers the southern portion of Baja California. La Paz is the state’s capitol. It became the 31st state of Mexico in October 1974. It was previously the south territory of lower California.

Life sized diorama depicting a ranch hand
On the opposite side of the walkway is the rancher’s home
Intricate details in the saddle
Mining era

The last room depicts the great social movements: Mexico’s independence from the Spanish Empire, the interventions, the Mexican-American War (1846-1848), resulting in the US capturing Mexico City in September 1847 and subsequent Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo in 1848. La Reforma (1850s and 1860s, resulting in a new constitution of 1857), the dictatorial rule of Porfiriato (1884-1911), and events of the 20th century are also discussed.

Although I was able to comprehend the meaning of the displays through translation, I felt I missed out on more detailed information printed in Spanish on the many posters. Knowing how to read Spanish would have been a big help.

Art Walk Tour Cut Short

Early one morning before breakfast and before the heat of the day began in earnest, we joined Amélie Padioleau for an art walk. Amélie is a French anthropologist, journalist, and sailor who has lived in La Paz for the past 10 years. Her bio states, “She collects mythological stories, sea legends, but also true facts about fishermen and local heroes with the courage to rethink their life around sustainability and conservation.”

We met Amélie in front of the Peach Bakery and Coffee Shop. We had hoped to grab a pastry and drink before our tour started. Sadly, it was closed.

We were excited to learn the stories behind some of the many murals we saw around the city center. Her talk focused on murals painted in 2013 and those murals created under the Cuidad Mural project in 2017 initiated by Colectivo Tomate. For this project, 25 artists were invited to “paint stories of the community on the walls of the city.”

Her passion for La Paz, the murals, the artists, and the stories the murals represent came through in her presentation and I enjoyed hearing about the murals and their creators.

We started out in the shade created between the multi-story commercial buildings. At one point, we stood in full sun for several minutes admiring a series of paintings, then moved on to find shade while we admired another mural.

By then the heat an humidity was becoming oppressive and Jon was finding it necessary to find a place to sit down. When I saw Jon nod off while he sat on a concrete block, I rushed to keep him from falling. With him slumped over, clammy skin, and eyes rolled back in his head, we couldn’t rouse him from his slumber.

Amélie, said get a wet towel. We didn’t have one. Bailey stripped off her T-shirt, wet it with her water bottle, and draped it over his shoulders. Still no response. Amélie uncapped her water bottle and poured it over Jon’s head.

Finally, Jon stirred awake, a smile on his face. A young-boy smile all proud of himself. He had no idea he’d passed out.

We apologized to Amélie and thanked her for the tour, then called a Didi to take us to the house. Walking back wasn’t a good idea. A cool dip in the pool, a plate of breakfast, and a few hours of rest, chased the heat exhaustion away and returned our big guy to normal. Well, at least his normal.

As I look at the photos today, I can appreciate how the artists incorporated the La Paz history and themes into their creations with the sea and desert playing a large part in the stories the art reveals. If we make it back to La Paz someday, I’d like to take the tour again.

Next up: A sunset sail and restaurants that enticed us in for a meal.

Safe Travels

2023 Summer Solstice Adventure La Paz, California Sur – Part 2

We continue our visit to La Paz with a look at the sights we saw around town, plus a guided hike, breakfast, and beach time.

Sights Seen About Town

Murals and architecture, both new and old, gave us a glimpse into the history and lives of the locals. Walking, as our main mode of transportation around town, allowed us an up-close view of the newly renovated or constructed buildings and structures in their last days of decay and everything in between. Each building—some enhanced with painted murals—provided unique personalities my camera lens could not ignore.

Desert, sea, and land
Roadrunner house
I see you and you see me
Pajaro
Hoo, hooo, hoooot
Watch out for the fangs
Abandoned shoes . . . broken strap?
These shoes look perfectly fine.

The contrast between daylight and nighttime tells a whole different story about the the building.

Day into . . .
Night
Oh, the music and dance and stories told here over the past century
No activities this night
Our Lady of Peace Cathedral
Moon over cathedral
Day . . .
and Night
Tattoo anyone?
Museo de Arte de la Ciudad de La Paz at night
Quinceanera pose
Moon over hacienda
Did I mention the metal basket on the left is where trash goes for pickup?
How did the stone mason make those cutouts?
Loved these colors together
Silly Bailey
The peeling paint and sidewalk debris of long-closed businesses often contrasted with the brightly colored storefronts and swept sidewalks.

This was an interesting little park and a great place to stop and cool off in the shade near the water feature. Coro en Armonia (Choir in Harmony) was created by Benito Ortega Vargas. Each mask appears to sing a different note of the musical scale.

Piedras y Pajaros
Do, re, mi, fa, sol, la, ti, do.
Jon and Kevin enjoy the coolness of Piedras y Pajaros
Smile, You’re on Candid Camera.

If we stood long enough under one of these cameras, we could see the face rotate. I pictured someone in a basement somewhere watching a bank of monitors for any trouble that might pop up.
A house squished between two commercial buildings.
The news stand was closed when we walked by
It looked like this building was under renovation.
A private room in Villa Lorena is listed as an Airbnb property
Looks like this house has a courtyard off the sidewalk
Art meets decay

If it hadn’t been so hot, I could have walked for hours taking photos of unique and interesting sites.

Rancho San Lorenzo Guided Hike and Organic Breakfast

We got up early for our Rancho San Lorenzo Guided Hike and Organic Breakfast at a working ranch. A rental car—picked up the night before—was required for us to make the trip to the tip of the peninsula north of La Paz. At 9:00 am, we piled out of the car to meet our guide Eduardo (Lalo) Mendez, from Guadalajara.

View of ranch house from the trail

The 1,000-acre desert ranch and preserve are populated with wild and tamed animals alike. Siting between the Coyote Mountains and the Sea of Cortez, there’s plenty of diverse terrain for the animals to roam. Rabbits, foxes, deer, and the occasional mountain lion have the run of the place, while goats, donkeys, horses, chickens, and ostriches are safe, cozy, and well-fed in their respective pens or corrals.

Vultures cooling their jets

Lalo, gave us an option for a strenuous hike or one less strenuous. We agreed the less strenuous would be best, since I was still nursing my broken wrist and wearing the brace just in case I might fall. Along the trail, Lalo would stop to point out rock formations in the mountains and hills, small caves, and the local flora and fauna, or talk about the history.

Desert flora is tricky. From far away it looks dead.
Up close its leafing and budding out
Even delicate florals survive in the desert
Steer clear of the cholla. It’s everywhere and known to jump and hang on.

We spied a variety of birds in the sky or resting on desert cactus. The vultures were most interesting as they found their perch atop the spikey Mexican cardón, or elephant cactus. Lalo was quick to tell us these saguaro look-alikes are another species entirely. The cardón can grow double the height and weight compared to their cousins to the north and live nearly twice as long.

Paper bark

We stopped to rest and hydrate at a mesa that overlooked the sea before turning back to the ranch house where breakfast waited for us.

There’s a cave up there
A sign the ocean is nearby
Palo Adán perhaps?
Donkeys eating breakfast
Barrel cactus
The cardóns are ready to bloom. Not sure what the orange flowers are.
“See how the nurse bush protects the cardón?”
The pads may look soft and fuzzy, they are not.

On the outdoor patio, fresh squeezed orange and guava juice and plates of fresh fruit (pineapple, papaya, mango, plantains, grapes, cantaloupe) was the first course of our colossal breakfast. Then came the creamy beans, eggs, machaca, toast, and handmade tortillas. It was the best breakfast ever after a hike. Oh, and to top it all off, they brought Jon a giant slice of chocolate cake for his birthday. We all helped him eat it.

Anyone ready for a hammock?
Beach storage palapa
View from our breakfast table
Owl face hill

One would think the guided hike and the breakfast were enough for the day. But no, there was more. Included with the hike was a trip to the beach. Two rancheros loaded up a trailer with a cabana, chairs, kayak, paddle board, and drove us along a dirt back road to the beach. We stayed a few hours sinking our toes in the sand, wading and swimming in the warm water, and watching the pelicans patrol above us.

Playa El Tecolote
Row, Kevin. Row.

Hikes and breakfast are not all Rancho San Lorenzo offers its guests. How about a morning horseback ride and breakfast, or a sunset horseback ride and dinner? There’s also a house that accommodates 12 people, or select the smaller one that accommodates 4.

Lalo and the gang

Up next: We have two more parts to wrap up our La Paz adventure. We’ll look at the art and history museums, an art walk, restaurants, and a sunset sail.

Safe Travels