2023 Fall Adventure Part I: Travel to Marshfield, Missouri

The first destination on our 2023 Fall Adventure was Marshfield, Missouri, where our daughter, Laura, and her family had settled into their new home. Her hope chest didn’t fit in their moving pod when her husband, Chris, loaded up their belongings, so we volunteered to deliver it. We’d figure out where to go and what to see after the delivery once we made the 7-day trek.

We hit the road on Friday, September 8, 2023. After our awful experience with Interstate 40 during the spring, we opted for highways 50 and 70, also referred to as the Loneliest Road in America.

First stop Fallon Nevada. Thank goodness we missed the deluge that disrupted the Burning Man event 120 miles to the north of us. Then on to Ely Nevada. The wide shoulder outside Austin, Nevada, was a perfect place to take a break. I would have preferred to walk over and explore the gravesites and monuments at the nearby Austin Cemetery. Instead, I snapped a shot from afar. The cemetery earned distinction on the National Register of Historic Places in 2003.

Jon bundled the hope chest inside blankets, covered it with a tarp,
and secured it to the rear hitch rack.
Austin Cemetery

We stopped in Eureka, Nevada, and ate delicious giant burgers at the Owl Club Bar and Steakhouse for lunch. I noticed a recurring theme of red paint with white trim on buildings around town. I imagined a group of people with ladders, brushes, and rollers roaming around, painting the town red.

Owl Club Bar and Steakhouse
Eureka historic buildings
Closed sign on the tourist information door.
1879 Court House

The beautiful canyon we drove through from Ely to Green River nearly made me cry. The painted cliffs in rust and orange and yellow were every bit as majestic from the passenger seat as it would have been up close.

On the way to our next stop, we encountered a contrast to the terrain from what we saw in Utah. The Utah rock gave way to cliffs clothed in grasses, bushes, and trees.

And then we gawked at the architectural genius that skirted the cliff like a tutu. Was it really westbound Interstate 70 up there?

Whoa, is that the interstate?

On paper, Denver West/City Center KOA seemed an easy side trip to avoid afternoon traffic in the big city. If I’d only known about the altitude, I might have chosen another location. While Denver sits at an elevation of 5,280 feet, the KOA is nearly 8,500 feet. Although we both had trouble navigating the hill from and to the fifth wheel and the store, it was the hot steamy shower that did me in. The combination of the steam and altitude had me gasping for breath. Note to self, don’t take a steamy hot shower in high altitude.

The hill to the store was steeper than it looks here

On September 12, 2023, we selected Wakeeney, Kansas, for our next stop, halfway between Denver and Kansas City.

We cut it close—I was driving, so I should say I cut it close—the next day when we (I) pulled into the fuel station with only 1.12 gallons of diesel left in the tank. Yikes!

While eating a late breakfast, at Cracker Barrel of course, we discussed finding a spot to stay the night or continue on to Marshfield, Missouri. The back-to-back long drives had worn me down, so I voted to press forward and make our trip six days instead of seven. Jon preferred to park and start off early in the morning. Trading off driving duty made it possible for us to make it all the way through. We won’t do that again soon. Seven hours on the map usually means eight or nine hours after stopping for food and fuel.

As the sun dropped below the horizon, we pulled into C&L Homestead and placed the trailer beside Chris’ workshop. I was so thankful we pushed through because we had two weeks ahead of us without packing and moving down the highway.

Finally, C & L Homestead

Up Next: A look around the homestead and the local area.

Safe Travels

Spring 2023 Adventure Episode 17: Arches National Park in Moab, Utah

Arches National Park had been on our must-see list for at least six years. Each time we were near Moab, we either didn’t have time to stop or we couldn’t get reservations near enough to make it worthwhile. I braced for disappointment again when I called the first RV park on my list. When I heard the words, “Yes, we can accommodate you on those dates,” I felt like I won a jackpot and jumped for joy around the fifth wheel until I made myself dizzy.

Wilson’s Arch: drive-by photo taken June 4, 2019

But first we had one more stop. On May 5, 2023, we continued traveling west on Highway 50, noticing the difference between prairie and high deserts as we passed through the continental divide. The awe-inspiring scenery captured my attention as the landscape zipped along outside the windshield. Through Canon City and Royal Gorges, advertisements flashed by for helicopter rides and river rafting and historic towns to explore. Budding trees rose above dry grasses, yellow sage brush, and junipers served as the foreground to the distant snow-capped mountain ranges and peaks. Spring is a wonderful time to travel.

Gunnison KOA

We stopped at the Gunnison KOA in Gunnison, Colorado, for the night. Burros, a small horse, and other farm animals had the run of the place, grazed on the grass in between the RV sites, and provided entertainment for the campers. When walking around, we kept an eye out for road apples.

Nibble, nibble
This rig had all the toys

The next day we arrived at Sun Outdoors in North Moab, thankful we had finally made it, and in time to run a few loads of laundry through the washer and dryer. Laundry done, we ate dinner and retired early so we could make our 7:00 am reservation for park entrance. Timed reservations are required from April-October between 7:00 am and 4:00 pm. And even with reservations, the lines to enter the park can be long.

Arches National Park, boasting over 2,000 arches (the largest in the world), became a national park in 1971. Before congress named Arches as a national park it held the distinction as a national monument from April 12, 1929, the date Herbert Hoover designated it as such. Wow! Almost 100 years ago.

Balanced rock
Plenty of snow on them thar hills

We had only a short wait to pass through the Arches gate and begin our tour. After a stop at Balanced Rock, we headed to the top of the park and worked our way back down, stopping at various sites for short hikes to rock formations and views.

View on the trail
Jon holding up a tree
Walking the trail
Not sure what this formation is called. Looks like bales of wool to me.
Landscape Arch

Besides Herbert Hoover, two other people deserve our thanks for saving Arches from development: Loren “Bish” Taylor who editorialized the marvels of Moab in the Moab newspaper in 1911, and John “Doc” Williams who teamed up with Rio Grande Western Railroad in 1923 to bring visitors to the area by train and promote Arches as a national park.

Not sure of this Arch’s name
Posing with one fine juniper tree
Wooly Locoweed
Closer view with sunlight

Behind us in the photo below was a tight squeeze and slanted, sandy, shale. This was a year after breaking my wrist, so I wasn’t about to tempt fate and risk another slipper slope.

Scaredy Cats

A permit obtained through Recreaction.gov is required for a self-guided tour of Fiery Furnace.

Fiery Furnace Viewpoint 1
Fiery Furnace Viewpoint 2

Wolfe Ranch (also known as Turnbow) was a one-room, 17′ x 15′ wood-floored cabin built by John Wolfe in 1906 to house a family of six. A root cellar, irrigation dams, and a corral rounded out the ranch where the family grazed 1,000 head of cattle on the surrounding land.

Wolfe Ranch Cabin and Corral
Wolfe Ranch Root Cellar

The Zuni, Hopi, Ute, Paiute and other American tribes are known to have traveled through and camped in the area where they hunted and gathered plants and made their marks on the rock walls.

Petroglyph panel

Beyond the petroglyph panel was a 3-mile roundtrip strenuous trek to Delicate Arch. We opted for a view from Upper Delicate Arch Viewpoint.

We arrived at the same time as a small tour group, yet we all had plenty of room to spread out and enjoy the view. Some people took off across the sandstone to the Arch itself. Zoom in close and they look like ants crawling around the foot of castles.

Delicate Arch and Other Formations

Delicate Arch from the Upper Delicate Arch Viewpoint was my favorite view. The rock formations in a row reminded me of a caravan traveling along the ridge with Delicate Arch leading the way.

Closer view where specs of people at the foot provide perspective of the arch’s size
Close up of the nooks and crannies in this boulder
Desert Primrose

The rocks and formations in Arches were formed from volcanic ash containing iron. Mostly we see the red rocks, sand, and hills which were created in an oxygen rich environment. The green rocks and hills were formed in a low-oxygen environment typically under water during the Jurassic period.

View showing a mix of the red and green rocks

Claret cup or scarlet hedgehog cactus in bloom. I like the way they cuddle up to each other. The hedgehog cactus is native to the southwest from California to Texas.

Claret Cup Hedgehog

Although the reservations are timed, that doesn’t mean no lines. If the park is too congested, park officials will restrict access for up to to 3-5 hours. Come prepared with food, plenty of water, sunscreen, and don’t forget to use the restrooms before lining up and entering the park.

Whew! We enjoyed our visit to Arches and would love to return one day in the future if possible. For now, though, we are satisfied we finally made it.

Next Up: St. George, Utah, then on to California and home.

Safe Travels

Spring 2023 Adventure Episode 16: Manitou Springs and Pike’s Peak Railway

We missed riding the Broadmoor Manitou & Pikes Peak Cog Railway during our visit to Colorado Springs in September 2018 because it was closed for renovation. Instead, we made it to the top by driving about halfway up the mountain and taking a shuttle the rest of the way.

2018 Visit to Pikes Peak summit by truck and shuttle

So, on our way back to California in May 2023, we made a point to stop and ride the brand-new train and allow a couple days to acclimate to the higher altitude. We arrived at Pike’s Peak RV Park in Manitou Springs on May 2, 2023. Dinner at the Cliff House Hotel was a good idea after our long drive. The salmon and trout were delicious entrees accompanied by the tastiest rosemary bread I’ve eaten and the peach cobbler was the perfect choice for dessert.

Cliff House Hotel and Restaurant

We booked reservations at The Miramont Castle for the next day where we enjoyed high tea at the Queen’s Parlour Tea Room. They serve up mouthwatering sweet and savory bites that satisfy the taste buds, along with several varieties of teas.

Miramont Castle

City of Manitou

After stuffing ourselves, we needed a walk along the streets of Manitou. We hadn’t taken the time to wander the streets the last time and were surprised to find the colorful buildings, spring water fountains, and art pieces along the sidewalks.

A spring runs through it
Shops along the street

We stopped at the Stratton and Cheyenne Springs for photo opportunities. In all, there are eight carbonated springs that flow under the town.

Spring Maiden sculpture by Fred Darpino

For anyone wanting to take a tasting tour of the springs, stop by the Chamber of Commerce and Visitors Bureau to pick up a map and collapsible souvenir cups for $2.00.

Untitled sculpture by Paul Roger

In front of the Armadillo Ranch Bar, Restaurant, and Live Music Venue is where the guitar sculpture “Comforting Melody” by Flaminio Antonio was installed in September 2022 under a one-year contract.

Armadillo Ranch Bar, Restaurant, and Live Music

On January 30, 2024, Creative Alliance Manitou Springs began a campaign to raise $6,000 to purchase the scrap metal sculpture for a permanent installation. As of March 11, 2024, they have collected $4,525 toward the purchase. To learn more or to donate, visit Here.

“Comforting Melody” by Flaminio Antonio
Detail of guitar sculpture

Broadmoor Manitou and Pikes Peak Cog Railway

We have Zalmon G. Simmons to thank for the creation of the Pikes Peak Cog Railway. In 1888, after a two-day trip by mule up Pikes Peak while surveying Englemann Canyon for telegraph lines, Simmons wanted a mode of transportation that was a quicker and more comfortable ride to the summit. Fortunately he had the means and the will to fund the construction of a railway. Construction began in 1889, limited service opened in 1890, and by 1891, the trains reached the top of Pikes Peak.

Railway yard and barn
Depot
Cog railway tracks
Inside the railway car

We boarded the train, excited to see what changes had been made at the visitor center. In a word, it was ‘awesome’. Where the cramped shed-like building commanded the top spot, a sprawling multi-story building with glass walls took its place. The views from inside the building were as spectacular as those outside.

Come on everybody, here we go

Steam locomotives were the first workhorses, then diesel in 1938, followed by self-propelled railcars purchased from Swiss Locomotive and Machine Works in 1964.

Balancing rock
Aspen grove

To accommodate the increase in tourism in the 1970s, two passing sidings were built at Minnehaha and at Windy Point to allow trains to pass on the hill. This allowed the railway to operate eight trains per day instead of only three. And business boomed.

First passing siding
Second passing siding

While preparing for a major maintenance project in the fall of 2017, the work crew realized the maintenance project would not be sufficient. A complete overhaul was required. In March 2018, the railway was closed indefinitely.

The owners, Anschutz Corporation, and the City of Manitou Springs signed an agreement in November 2018 to fund the estimated $36 million renovation through tax breaks over a 50-year period. The project consisted of replacing the track infrastructure; rebuilding the visitor center, depot, other facilities, and older railcars; and purchasing three new trainsets. Work began in March 2019 and reopened on May 20, 2021.

We’re here

It’s interesting that the railway took three years to build initially, and 138 years later, it took a little over two years to completely rebuild the world’s highest and longest cog railroad in the Northern Hemisphere.

Pikes Peak Visitor Center

All interior and external areas surrounding the visitor center are ADA compliant. Inside, guests will find a snack bar, interactive and interpretive exhibits, and a gift shop. And the 1,500 pound donut machine has returned to the delight of previous travelers to the mountain.

Snow piled high
View from second floor of building

Although we enjoyed the ride up and down the mountain, we found that one day was not sufficient to acclimate to conditions at the peak. Within minutes, Jon’s altitude sickness attacked him so badly that he returned to the railcar.

View from top deck

I ignored the awful feeling the best I could and walked slowly on the ice and snow while taking photos. I wanted to enjoy the views as much as I could since I figured we’d never make it to the top again. The air is too thin at fourteen thousand feet for our bodies to function properly.

View from upper level
Time to go

We recommend riding the Broadmoor and Pikes Peak Cog Railway when traveling near Colorado Springs. Just be aware that altitude sickness is real, especially for those of us who live near sea level. More days of acclimating and staying hydrated can help reduce symptoms, but they may not eliminate them.

If interested in reading about our trip to Colorado Springs in 2018, go here.

Next Up: We continue west toward Arches National Park

Safe Travels

Week Four – A Drive to Silverton, Colorado, and the Murals of Cortez

We almost didn’t make the 2-hour drive to Silverton, Colorado, but I’m so glad we did. Mammoth Lakes in California has been a favorite mountain destination of mine for over forty years. Silverton, Colorado, comes in at a close second or maybe even a tie for the No. 1 spot.

San Juan County Courthouse

The San Juan Forest contains an assortment of trees ranging from gamble oak, rocky mountain juniper, and maple to pines and firs of all sorts. What I thought most impressive were the acres upon acres of quaking aspen. I’m not content with imagining the burst of golds, yellows, and orange that will paint the hills when the leaves turn. I need to experience it in person. Hmmm! I wonder if we can make it back there during the fall?

City Hall

After driving for miles through thick forest, a valley opened up below, revealing the little town laid out in grids like an oasis surrounded by tall snowcapped peaks.

Silverton, Colorado

Incorporated on November 15, 1883, Silverton serves as the county seat of San Juan County. It is one of the highest cities in the United States at an elevation of 9,318 feet.

Plenty of shops and restaurants in Silverton, Colorado

Although Silverton started out as a silver mining camp, it now draws tourists to the quaint town all year round. Winter brings in the skiers to swoosh down Kendall Mountain. Expert skiers can challenge their skill level on Silverton Mountain’s un-groomed terrain, or take a helicopter to a ski location.

Hungry Moose Bar & Grill

Durango and Silverton Train

One of the many restaurants ready to serve train passengers and other visitors

Hop on the stagecoach for a ride around town

The Wyman Hotel

Four-wheel enthusiasts descend on the town from spring through fall attracted by the numerous trails that traverse the San Juan Mountains. Even the hungry and thirsty passengers arriving on the Durango & Silverton train enjoy the restaurants and shops on Greene and Empire streets. Overnight accommodations are also available in the hotels, inns, and B&Bs.

American Legion Post 14 Building

Our last stop in Silverton was the hardware store. The colorful flowerpots out front invited us to take a peek while the owners sat in rockers on their front porch. They offered wood for campfires, lumber and pipe to build a house, and the usual products found in most hardware stores.

Silverton Hardware Store

We thoroughly enjoyed our short visit to Silverton, Colorado, and plan to make our way back someday. Maybe we’ll even rent a 4-wheeler and take it for a ride on one of the trails.

Molas Lake and Campground

At Molas Lake and Campground it looked like a late opening for the season. The lake was still frozen and the campground covered in snow.

Molas Lake and Campground

Pinkerton Hot Springs

When we saw the soft-served-ice-cream shaped rock off the side of the road, we had to stop and find out what it was all about. It turned out to be a spring that flows over the formation coloring the rock to look like it was dipped in butterscotch. Once a resort and tourist attraction, today it is merely a roadside attraction stop to marvel at the mineral-rich spring that continues to build upon itself.

Pinkerton Hot Springs

Cortez, Colorado, and the Building Murals

In the two weeks we spent in Cortez, Colorado, we came to know the town better than most places we have stayed. Formed in 1886, the town housed men working on the tunnels and irrigation ditches to divert water from the Dolores River to the Montezuma Valley. Farming and ranching is still a major economic driver for the region along with tourism.

The town had pretty much anything we needed. We found groceries at City Market, Safeway, or Walmart, filled a prescription at Walgreens, and Slavens True Value had the perfect thermometer for the fifth wheel. I found it refreshing that there were no malls and very few strip malls with major retailers.

The colorful and whimsical murals on the sides of historic buildings was a special bonus. The murals feature life and the cultural history of Cortez and the surrounding area.

Slavens True Value features “Four Seasons” by Kathleen King

Summer Blush – Exploration – Rain

Autumn Rush – Remembering – River

Spring Crush – Anticipation – Lake

Walking past “The Old Spanish Trail” by Mariah Kaminsky gave me the impression the man was looking right at me as his burros kicked up dust.

“The Old Spanish Trail” by Maria Kaminsky

“Harvest Time: McElmo Peaches” depicts the farming spirit in the region.

“Harvest Time: McElmo Peaches” by Brad Goodell

Gustavo’s Mexican Restaurant displays “The Rancher” by Kathleen King. The sizzling fajitas for two and warm tortillas were quite tasty. Beware of the freshly made margaritas, though. The large size and heavy alcohol content had us drinking large glasses of water to dilute the buzz.

“The Ranger” by Kathleen King

In search of a decaf mocha drink, we came across the building below with the buffalo sculpture out front. Unfortunately, the owner could not serve what we desired because she was waiting for equipment to arrive. We did find regular coffee, tasty pastry, a nice clock for our house, and good conversation. When passing through Cortez, be sure to stop at Cozy Cabin Living for a cup of coffee and a chat with Tenley Rees, the proprietress. Then take a look around the shop for unique gifts or decor items. Cozy Cabin Living is located at 90 North Mildred across the street from the Colorado Welcome Center.

Cozy Cabin Living

Jon made four visits to the Cortez Family Acupuncture office for his treatments. Although his sciatica did not go away completely, the sessions did ease the pain enough to get him home.

Cortez Family Acupuncture

The Historic Montezuma Valley National Bank building now houses KSJD Public Radio station and the Sunflower Theater. We enjoyed listening to the morning news on the station, and in the afternoon, jazz and other music programs entertained us.

KSJD and SunFlower Theater Building

Sleeping Ute Mountain

We encountered a view of Sleeping Ute Mountain just about everywhere we went in and around town. Although it was visible from the back window of our fifth wheel, I found the view below more pleasing without electrical wires and power poles to clutter the photo. Picture a Ute chief laying on his back with his arms crossed over his chest. That is the highest peak. To the right of the peak is the man’s head. To the left is his torso, knees, and toes at the far left.

Sleeping Ute Mountain Viewed from in front of the high school

That wraps up our time in Cortez, Colorado. It didn’t seem like we did a lot while there at the time, but putting together the blog posts I can see that we managed to explore plenty despite Jon’s impairment. We left Cortez on June 4, 2019, and headed back to California.

Next up: our drive through Moab, Utah, and a couple days in Sparks, Nevada, before making it home.

Safe Travels