Columbia Falls, Montana

On September 7, 2017September 4, 2017 By LToddIn Montana, Photography, RV Travel, Travel4 Comments

Going-To-The-Sun Road (GTTSR) was first on our list of things to do in Glacier National Park. The fifty mile road includes several points of interest for fantastic views of the wildflowers, snow-capped mountain peaks, and valleys below.

Going-To-The-Sun Road

With speed limits ranging from 25 to 45 miles per hour, drivers can’t be in a hurry to reach the other end of the park. The park recommends an early start to avoid the traffic jams. This is fine if you don’t want to stop at Logan Pass Visitor Center or are only traveling one-way. For a round trip drive, however, plan on spending a full day and encountering significant traffic on the way back.

The road is an engineering marvel for the 1920s. Instead of creating a solid tunnel with no view, portholes were created so passengers can catch glimpses of the scenery as they drive through. This is an example of one of the tunnels.

Weeping wall is a remnant from construction of the GTTSR. Engineers created a cliff when they carved through the rock in this section. Water from springs and melting snow pour over and onto the road surface below.

It was a good thing we took photos on our way eastbound because on our return trip it felt like driving through downtown San Francisco during critical mass when all the bicyclists arrive to disrupt traffic flow. Wildlife traffic jams are a common occurrence in national parks. On our return trip later in the day, the wildlife turned out to be two young women. One woman posed on the wall side of the road with the water pouring down behind her while her friend stood on the other side taking a photo. The vehicles going in both directions inched their way between them. It always amazes me how people put their lives in jeopardy all for the sake of a photo.

Enjoy a few more renderings of the scenery along the Going-to-the-Sun Road.

We thought we had left early enough to make a stop at Logan’s Pass Visitor Center. Not so. We drove into the parking lot along with other cars circling around in search for a space. We spotted people getting into their car. Jon turned on his blinker and left room for other vehicles to pass. The car’s back up lights came on. A lady pulled up next to us. We thought she would drive on. No such luck. I got out and told her we were waiting for the car to leave, didn’t she see our blinker? Her reply, “I followed them from way over there. It’s my spot.” Really? Is that a thing? It wasn’t worth arguing about so we ended up taking turns driving around the parking lot so we could visit the restrooms. If we come back to Glacier, we’ll take the shuttle to Logan Pass Visitor Center.

Further down the road, only a few cars had parked along St. Mary Lake leaving plenty of opportunity to take pictures.

Many Glacier

We exited the park in St. Mary and headed toward Many Glacier. The road into Many Glaciers travels through the Blackfeet Indian Reservation. Although evidence of recent road work was visible, huge potholes and washboard areas made for a very slow and bumpy ride to the park entrance. A few yards from the gate, this cub was too busy foraging for his meal to raise his head for a photo op.

The Many Glacier Hotel in the Historic Swiss Chalet, looked like a great place to get a bite of lunch.

The rich wood paneling, high ceilings, gleaming floors, and stone fireplace created a sense of warmth that invited us into Ptarmigan Dining Room.

The view from our table could not be beat.

The food? Not the best part of our experience. My bison sloppy joe wasn’t the most enticing dish when the server placed it in front of me. Although it tasted okay, it was nothing special.

Unfortunately, after Jon took a spoonful of his bison chili, he wanted to ask the server, “Where’s the bison?” The chili was mostly beans. We found the reviews on Travelocity similarly mixed.

After our meal, we walked along the Swift Current Trail that wraps around the lake in a loop.

View of Many Glacier Hotel from Swift Current Creek Nature Trail

If we make our way back to Glacier National Park, I’d like to spend a few days on the east side and explore the numerous trails around Many Glaciers, maybe even take a boat ride, or try out a kayak or stand-up paddle board.

Good to Know Information about Going-To-The-Sun Road

An audio tour of the road is available to download on the NPS website here. Transcripts of each recording are also available.

Tours:

Sun Tours imparts information about the Blackfeet Indian culture and the importance of Glacier National Park to their heritage
Ride in a historic Red Bus and enjoy the scenery in a convertible vehicle
Going-to-the-Sun Road Shuttle System travels between Apgar and St. Mary visitor centers making stops along the way, including Logan’s Pass

A few precautions:

Vehicles longer than 21 feet, wider than 8 feet, and/or taller than 10 feet are restricted. Visit the website for more information about the road conditions here.
Don’t be in a hurry
Watch out for
- Construction zones
- Bicyclists on portions of the narrow road
- People walking into traffic at trailheads and points of interest stops
Cell and WiFi service is pretty much non-existent throughout the park
Pack snacks and/or a lunch

Stay tuned for more of Glacier National Park and a visit to Whitefish, Montana in next week’s post.

Safe Travels

Livingston, Montana

On August 31, 2017August 30, 2017 By LToddIn Montana, Photography, RV Travel, States, Travel7 Comments

Only July 4, 2017, we made progress toward Glacier National Park selecting Livingston, Montana, as a waypoint for a few days. Smoke streaked across the sky along Interstate 90, even though Inciweb indicated no fire in the area. A few miles east of Hardin, we drove under the stream of smoke leaving clear skies ahead. We continued through hills sporting their golden summer hue, saw a cornfield growing between the freeway and a train yard near Laurel, and experienced the finest rest area ever. Greycliff Rest Area Westbound didn’t have the usual dark and dank multi-stall facilities one finds when stopping along the freeway. Instead, we found two building wings—one for men and one for women—with individual ADA accessible rooms. The room couldn’t have been any cleaner or more comfortable. As we continued our route, the Crazy Mountains loomed ahead with the remnants of winter snow outlining the crevices and valleys.

Off Pine Creek Road (US-89 S) we found the Livingston Paradise Valley KOA nestled between tall cliffs of a canyon. I thought for sure the authorities had banned fireworks in this area of forest, farms, and ranchlands that border the Yellowstone River. Silly me, the explosions echoed in the canyon until at least midnight. Happy Birthday, USA.

The City of Livingston, Montana, is a historic railroad and ranching town and was the first gateway into Yellowstone National Park. Art galleries, bookstores, outfitters, breweries, restaurants, boutiques, and banks occupy several blocks of historic buildings.

Independent Stationery Stores Still Thrive

Step into Montana Watch Company for a custom-made timepiece. I’d love to own one of these gorgeous watches. Unfortunately, their price point is beyond my budget.

To escape the sweaty 100-degree weather, we stopped in at Katabatic Brewing for a pint of Hefeweizen and taco salads served by Fiesta En Jalisco, a Mexican restaurant next door. I received a meteorological lesson when I asked about the name Katabatic. The owners named the brewery after the ever-present winds in Livingston, which can equal or exceed 70 mph. The Santa Ana winds in Southern California are also of the katabatic variety where the wind carries high-density air from higher elevations down slope. With winds exceeding 30 mph on 246 average days a year, Livingston is the windiest city in Montana. What else would you call a brewery in the windiest city?

We recommend breakfast at Northern Pacific Beanery in Livingston. With vintage décor and a choice of counter seating or chairs at a table, you’ll feel like you stepped into the 1900s when the location served railroad workers, locals, and visitors who rode the train to Yellowstone, the world’s first national park.

Best Breakfast in Town at Northern Pacific Beanery

Historic Building of Northern Pacific Beanery

On the hunt for freshly baked bread, we headed to Bozeman. Our mouths watered when we walked into Great Harvest Bread Co. and smelled the yeasty goodness baking in the ovens. We enjoyed the aroma of a loaf of Honey Whole Wheat the rest of the day and until we returned to the KOA.

While in Bozeman, we visited the American Computer and Robotics Museum. Their displays range from stone tablets to an iPad, cyborgs and robots, early video games, an original Apple I signed by Steve Wozniak, and the first PC. They have filled each room with memorabilia for the theme be it robotics, computers, video games, or brains and thinking machines. Also included are pictures and biographies of the creators and scientists.

1945 Clifford E. Berry Analog Computer Reduced Calculations of Simultaneous Equations from 5 Hours to 44 Minutes.

Grace Hopper Conceptualized Programming Language That Led to Development of COBOL

From Stone Tablets to Apple iPad in 4,000 Years

The Tinsley Living History Farm at the Museum of the Rockies was our next stop. The volunteers stationed in each of the main rooms of the house wore period costumes, multiple petty coats under cotton dresses with long sleeves in 100-degree heat. Oh, my! I was glad I had on shorts and a sleeveless top. The docents detailed the history of the house and the people who lived in the home. In the kitchen, they took turns churning cream into butter. Tinsley descendants and other people donated many of the furnishings, decorations, and appliances, some of which could have been purchased from the Sears catalog in the day. Outside we found a wheat field, chickens, gardens, and a replica of the Tinsley’s original log cabin with a sod roof, in which they lived for 20 years before they built the house.

Blackbill Magpies Squawked at the Visitors

One of the Bedrooms in the Tinsley House

It looked like the walls were lined with a sail cloth fabric. We were told it was actually paper.

It’s the Little Details that Help Tell the Story

The Tinsley’s, along with their eight children, lived in a cabin similar to this one for twenty years before they built the big house. I can’t imagine living in that tiny space with more than one other person, much less eight children.

After each day of sightseeing while in Livingston, this golden eagle greeted us back to the campground. Always perched on the same electrical pole and scanning the field for dinner.

We waved goodbye to the golden eagle on July 7, 2017, and pointed the truck in the direction of Columbia Falls, Montana. On our way, we found a couple of gems worth mentioning.

In Missoula, Montana, we stopped for fuel and some lunch. What a surprise to bite into a generous serving of sandwich fillings between freshly baked bread from Wheat Montana Bakery and Deli. We were thankful for the fresh ingredients and tasty meal worthy of a gourmet restaurant. It was so unexpected at a fueling station where the usual offerings consist of pizza, soggy cellophane wrapped sandwiches if you’re lucky, or anything that is fried or spinning on a spit.

Bowman Orchard and Winery on Highway 35, which runs along the east side of Flathead Lake had ample parking for our rig. We munched on sweet cherries the rest of the way to Columbia Falls.

Visit Bowman Orchards & Winery for Sweet Cherries

Join us next week when we begin our tour of Glacier National Park from our base camp in Columbia Falls, Montana.

Safe Travels

Garryowen, Montana

On August 24, 2017August 19, 2017 By LToddIn Montana, Photography, RV Travel, States, Travel8 Comments

We left the Black Hills of South Dakota in our rearview mirror on June 30, 2017, and headed for 7th Ranch RV Camp in Garryowen, Montana. We were surprised to find that our campsite was at an actual working ranch with cows and horses.

7th Ranch RV Camp

The best part about 7th Ranch was the free huckleberry ice cream sandwich we received upon checking in. They made a perfect treat after setting up the trailer for our four-night stay. We enjoyed waking in the morning to the sounds of cows mooing and walking the property to see all the whimsical birdhouses that sat atop fence posts.

Oh, and I can’t forget the beautiful sunsets each night.

What’s in Garryowen, Montana? Not much other than a privately owned Custer Battlefield Museum, a Conoco gas station, and a trading post. However, one exit to the north is the Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument, also known as Custer’s Last Stand, and by the Lakota and Plains Indians as the Battle of the Greasy Grass.

Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument

We counted ourselves lucky to have arrived at the monument in time to hear a ranger talk on the two-day battle between the American Indians and the Cavalry.

Through his storytelling, I could see smoke rise from the American Indian camp near the river, and hear the thunder of horses, the cracks of rifles, and the shouting and whooping as the cavalry and Indians clashed. Mr. Abbot explained the impetus that culminated in the conflict, the strategy of each side, the skirmishes within a five-mile stretch of hilly land, and how it all ended. The National Park Service had a unique opportunity to perform painstaking research when a 1986 fire uncovered archeologically significant evidence. This discovery allowed them to corroborate the American Indian oral histories and written accounts by the troops who came upon the scene in the days after the conflict for a more accurate account.

View of Visitors Center from the Custer Monument

We drove the 4.5-mile trail pulling over at each information stop to listen to a recording on the cell phone of what happened in that location. White posts marked the spots where the cavalry troops fell during the battle, red posts marked places where the American Indians fell. Even the horses that died in the conflict have their own memorial at their burial site.

Jon, with his military background, was most interested in the skirmishes and determining what the cavalry did right and what they did wrong. The senseless death and destruction affected me more. While driving the battle route and walking the grounds of the national cemetery I wanted to whisper and walk softly to honor the sacred ground of both the white and red men who fought and died to protect their way of life.

Custer Monument and Field of Fallen Troops

The place calls out for solemnity, the same feeling I experienced when we visited the Arizona at Pearl Harbor in Hawaii where over 1,100 sailors are entombed in the ship.

Yellowtail Dam National Park

The picturesque drive to Yellowtail Dam National Park took us through the Crow Indian Reservation ranch and farmland along the Bighorn River. The river is a fly-fishing paradise with numerous cabins and camps along the banks.

No tours are offered of the dam, but the visitor center has nice displays depicting the building of the dam, the after bay, and river. They also show a movie that explains the surrounding area, recreation opportunities, and wildlife.

The dam regulates the flow of the Bighorn River for irrigation purposes and generates power to residences in the area.

Water Flows Into the After Bay Before Becoming Part of the River

Near the park headquarters, we found Ok-A-Beh Road and headed out to the marina on Bighorn Lake. We enjoyed the views of more green grassland, red canyon walls, and the river valley.

We pulled off at one point to look at a fenced off area. Posters inside the fence told the story of the vision quest and gave other information about the tribe.

About a half hour or so of driving, without seeing more than one or two vehicles along the way, all of a sudden cars, SUVs, and trucks, some with boat trailers, lined both sides of the road for about a quarter-mile. We gave up on the idea of eating our lunch at the marina. We dropped down into the main parking lot to turn around. Up one lane and down another.

Then, “Wait. Slow down. That guy is jingling his keys.” No one else vied for his spot. Score! We munched our tuna sandwiches and tortilla chips with salsa while boats and jet skis glided in and out of the marina. The red canyon walls and the lake enhanced our view under cloudy skies.

Big Horn County Historical Museum

With temperatures approaching 100 degrees, an inside activity seemed the smart choice for our sightseeing one day so we drove to Hardin, Montana, to wander among the artifacts and displays inside the air-conditioned Big Horn County Historical Museum.

As it turned out, most of our visit was outdoors exploring an early mid-1900 farmhouse, a schoolhouse, ranch cabins, a train depot, and two barns filled with vehicles including surreys with fringe on top, stagecoaches, mid-century fire trucks, and other conveyances.

The Fly Inn Gas Station and Corinth Store

And Then There Is Food

We had seen several Taco John’s locations for the past couple of weeks but never tried them out. We were surprised to find they had a large selection of tacos and other Mexican-style dishes, all made to order with fresh ingredients, chips, and a variety of salsa to choose from. It definitely was not Taco Bell. I’m sure we will visit them again when we are near one of their stores.

Next up? Glacier National Park after a few days in Livingston, Montana.

Safe Travels

Black Hills, South Dakota – Part V

On August 17, 2017August 13, 2017 By LToddIn Photography, RV Travel, South Dakota, States, Travel, Wyoming10 Comments

Finally, the last post for the Black Hills in South Dakota with Rapid City, Jewel Cave, Deadwood, Devils Tower, and a few more sights.

Rapid City

None of the jewelry stores near Custer could replace watch batteries so off to Rapid City we drove. With a new battery and refreshing drinks in hand, we explored the downtown area. John Adams looked thirsty so Jon gave him a sip from his Frappuccino

Bronze statues of 43 US Presidents stand on almost every corner of the downtown city blocks earning Rapid City the honor of the “Most Patriotic Best Small Town in the United States.” We had fun guessing who the statues portrayed before we read the plaques. Visit the City of Presidents visitors center for to see the original statues, information on the presidents, and a map.

The City Park was hopping while we were there. On stage groups of children performed while family, friends, and neighbors beat the heat by playing in the water feature or huddling under umbrellas.

Independent bookstores have a tough time these days keeping the doors open. Diversifying the business model to include jewelry, music, and T-shirts seems to help this store make ends meet.

The popularity of brewpubs has done wonders to revitalize run down buildings in older cities. Firehouse Brewery converted the old Rapid City Fire Department building, complete with a 9/11 tribute mural on the side.

I’ve seen other breweries housed in old firehouses during our travels. Buildings renovated by breweries throughout the country include banks, churches, factories, and old hotels. What would have happened to all those buildings without the popularity of craft beer?

One of the most interesting parts of the city was Art Alley. A one-block alley filled with art painted on the walls of buildings, staircases, and dumpsters. Some of the art expressed a message.

Others contained cartoon characters in contemplation.

As is often the case with any rules, not all artists obtained the required permit from participating businesses or honored the prohibition against painting stairwells and dumpsters.

Looks like the owner or tenant of this building gave up the idea of having a pristine canvas on the wall.

Is this considered art?

I liked the detail in this mural of a man.

Although we only stayed a couple of hours, we liked the feel of the town. We encountered friendly people, a thriving downtown scene, and other amenities a population of 73,000 might enjoy. I wouldn’t mind going back and spending more time.

Jewel Cave National Monument

Jewel Cave was the last place on our list to visit before leaving the southern end of the Black Hills. Tickets for the 80-minute scenic cave tour are distributed on a first come, first served basis. We arrived around 10 a.m. and the next available tickets were for the 12:40 p.m. tour. Jewel Cave is not as pretty as other caves we have toured. There aren’t as many stalactites or stalagmites. But the sparkling quartz gives Jewel its own unique beauty.

Great Example of Bacon Drapery Formation

Other tours are available: A 20-minute program, a historic lantern tour, and a wild caving tour, and internship for students. Jewel Cave is the third longest cave in the world, only about 3% of which has been explored. Some people believe it is possible that Jewel Cave and Wind Cave, 20-miles away, are connected.

Roubaix Lake

On Monday, June 26, we drove a short distance to Roubaix Lake Campground in the Black Hills National Forest hoping to snag a campsite for a few nights.

The campground host directed us to the unreserved sites and I think we managed to get the best site in the campground. The large space that overlooked the rest of the campground made it easy to maneuver the fifth wheel in place for a patio view of the forest and no close neighbors.

Upon viewing the lake and learning that the Game Fish and Parks Department had recently stocked trout, Jon found a place to purchase a three-day fishing license.

While Jon went fishing for two days, I enjoyed sticking around the trailer. Although cellular service, Wi-Fi, and electricity were non-existent, I kept busy writing with pen and paper and catching up on my reading backlist. Jon was thrilled to have reeled in one of the biggest trout he has ever caught.

Deadwood and Sturgis

One afternoon we took in the sights at Deadwood and Sturgis. Deadwood was a typical western town complete with gift shops, restaurants, bars and grills, and even a cigar bar below street level.

This Close to Sturgis a Motorcycle Shop is a Must

Below Street Level, End of Walkway is a Cigar Bar

Sturgis did not impress us. Then again, we arrived on a slow day. Motorcycles, Camaros, or Mustangs did not fill the streets. Perhaps it’s not the city itself that is the attraction, but the rallies that occur several weeks out of the year and the people who attend. Or, maybe we went to the wrong part of town. Only one lone photo to prove we had been there.

Spearfish Canyon Scenic Byway

Fall must be a magical time to drive through Spearfish Canyon. Ponderosa and spruce pines share the Spearfish Creek banks with aspen, birch, and oak trees. The damp rainy weather that accompanied us on our drive coated the leaves and branches with droplets of rain. Layers of limestone in beige or tan, mauve, pink or red hues, sit atop layers of brown sandstone.

I had picked out a couple hikes for us to try along the canyon. Unfortunately, the inclement weather kept us in our truck. That is until we came to Bridal Veil Falls where we had to make a stop long enough to dodge the plops of drops to snap a photo.

Sundance, Wyoming, and Longhorn Saloon

After driving through Spearfish Canyon, we drove out to Sundance, Wyoming. This small town is where Harry Longabaugh spent eighteen months in jail for stealing a gun, horse, and saddle from a nearby ranch. Longabaugh continued his criminal activity and later earned the nickname the Sundance Kid. We ate the best burgers and service ever at the Longhorn Saloon and Grill.

Devils Tower National Monument

Devils Tower National Monument was our next stop. The tower was visible for miles as we approached. Several vehicles stopped at this viewpoint to take pictures.

View of Devil’s Tower from Scenic Overlook

We were glad we hadn’t towed our trailer to the monument. Parking was limited at the visitor’s center and not suitable for a truck and trailer rig.

The 1.3-mile loop trail around the base of the formation delivers views of the surrounding area, spots to check out the progress of climbers, and a multitude of perspectives of the tower. Sacred to the Northern Plains Indians and other tribes, it is a place requiring reverence.

We made it back to the visitor center with only a few raindrops on our heads, but while I was in the restroom, a hailstorm let loose and bombarded me on my way back to the truck.

What caused the geological formation to rise from the landscape with such significance? Geologists agree on what formed the tower, but not how. Visit the National Park Service online for more information.

We had a great time in the Black Hills, but for now, it was time to move on. Next stop? Little Big Horn Battlefield.

Safe Travels

The Traveling Todds

Author: LTodd

Columbia Falls, Montana

Livingston, Montana

Garryowen, Montana

Black Hills, South Dakota – Part V

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