Cody Wyoming

Like the chicken that crossed the road, we traveled on August 5 through Yellowstone, fifth-wheel in tow, to see what was on the eastern side of the park. The steep road heading out the East Gate and beyond for miles was a sharp contrast to the West Gate, which stood mere yards from the town of West Yellowstone.

We had seen signs along the roads the past three days in Yellowstone warning of forest fires, but the only smoke we saw or smelled was from campfires in the evening. As we moved further east, the blue sky turned gray and when we arrived at Yellowstone Valley Inn & RV, smoke boiled up mixing with puffy white clouds above the hills behind the campground.

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Fires Burning in Hills Behind Yellowstone Valley Inn and RV Park

The lady who checked us in assured us the fire was worse a couple of days before and was now concentrated behind the hills with the wind blowing in that direction so neither the smoke or fire should be a concern.

We set up our trailer and tried to relax while vigilantly watching helicopters and planes fly in to pick up water from nearby Shoshone River and Buffalo Bill Reservoir then fly out through the smoke over the hills to douse the flames we could not see. Later in the day hot spots flared up on our side of the hills that the helicopters and planes ignored until just before dark.

The next morning, the clouds and smoke made for magnificent photo opportunities for a short time before the sun hid behind the clouds.

Our first stop the next day was the Buffalo Bill Dam. The dam is puny compared to Hoover Dam but the depth of the canyon still amazed. Jon’s panoramic photo gives a sense of height from the top. It looked like no one had bothered to clear the tree debris from the reservoir side of the dam for some time. Logs and limbs piled up against the back wall of the dam.

Our next stop was Cody WY, named after William Buffalo Bill Cody who, with his Wild West show partner and other men, was instrumental in founding and developing the city in 1895. The town still has the old Western flavor with mostly 19th and early 20th century buildings and a smattering of newer construction. The Irma Hotel and Restaurant, a centerpiece of the city, was named after one of Cody’s daughters and bills itself as Cody’s Finest Restaurant. A local person warned us that what is advertised is not always what you get. We didn’t get a chance to confirm or dispute her claim.

The Old Trail Town at the west end of town was an interesting place to visit. I usually expect something cheesy at these kinds of stops.

Instead, we saw actual buildings that Butch Cassidy, the Sundance Kid, and other historical figures occupied at one point in their lives. The owner researches all the buildings to ensure their historical value before he moves them to the museum for restoration.

The Lincoln log-type construction peaked my fascination and I wondered how airtight the walls might have been against the frigid winters. Imagine sitting at one of the desks in the school wearing a thin shift of a dress or tattered pants and shirt while snow piled up outside. These little shacks made me appreciate indoor plumbing, heating, and air conditioning, not to mention my phone and computer.

Piles of antlers popped up around West Yellowstone and Cody. At first, I was horrified to think of all the slain animals to accumulate such stacks of antlers. Alas, no animals were harmed in the creation of the antler arches, mounds, or pyramids. Elk shed their antlers each spring and they regrow during the summer.

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On to Yellowstone Regional Airport on the east side of Cody for an open house and free lunch. The main attraction was a C130 brought in by the Air National Guard of Wyoming. We also saw the planes (red and white) that scooped up the water to drop on the fires. The dump doors are shown in the close-up photo.

This little blue plane took off while we were there. It had trouble starting and sputtered as it taxied down the runway, but managed to take off with no problems. I hope he made it to his destination.

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Always skeptical of free offerings I was pleasantly surprised to bite down on a freshly grilled burger and bun. We had a nice talk with the manager of the local REACH Medical unit and one of the paramedics. I never want to have to use their services but it gives me comfort to know they are around just in case.

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Our last stop for the day was the Buffalo Bill Center of the West, a massive building of 91,480 square feet housing not one museum but five. For the price of admission, you get two consecutive days to explore the Buffalo Bill MuseumCody Firearms MuseumDraper Natural History MuseumPlains Indian Museum, and the Whitney Western Art Museum plus several special exhibits. I enjoyed wandering around the place, getting lost and finding new and exciting things to look at and learn about but a few hours each day was not enough to see everything. We’ll have to go back some day, or perhaps a week, to see the rest.

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The Bob’s Big Boy statue stands in the middle of a rancher’s field. What the heck was it doing out there?

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We took a very long drive on our last day in Cody. We stopped at Heart Mountain Relocation Center, one of ten concentration camps used for the internment of Japanese Americans during WWII. The prejudice and treatment of the internees were appalling. May our country never resort to such tactics in the future.

How could the government take away the rights of its citizens and then have the gall to draft them into the military? From Heart Mountain, eight hundred volunteers and draftees served in the military while 92 young men were imprisoned for selective service act violations due to their protests.

We continued our journey through PowellByron, and Lovell, cute little idyllic farm towns. Then we crossed Big Horn River into the Big Horn Forest Mountains that offered an overlook of the Big Horn Basin. The photos cannot display the awesome feeling one experiences from the sight of the vast valley below (although shrouded in smoke) and the massive peaks showing off the colors of their geological history. They are something one must see in person to benefit from their magnificence.

A stop at Medicine Wheel National Historic Landmark and a short hike was in order after such a long drive. Contrasted with the ancient medicine wheel was a FAA radar dome on top of a hill. Native Americans still use the medicine wheel for ceremonies and leave offerings tied to the ropes.

We continued our journey to Shell Falls about half way down Shell Canyon. From the valley floor, up the mountains and down again, every twist and turn of the road gave us something new to admire from colorful cliffs to thick forests, ranches, and farmlands. Wildlife came out late in the day. We saw pikas (so cute with their little circle ears and round bodies), a marmot, deer and bunnies, and even a coyote. Unfortunately, the critters scurried so fast we weren’t able to capture their images.

We entered Greybull as the sun was setting and we still had more than an hour before we arrived at the campground. We found Lisa’s Western Cuisine a fine place to stop for dinner. We were surprised how good a cob salad could taste in such a remote location. The menu stated the salad was topped with a shoestring potato nest. What came to mind were the ones that come in a can. No sir, these freshly made, piping hot, potato nests were quite tasty along with the lettuce and other vegetables.

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Lisa’s Western Cuisine

Then it was decision time. Should we continue on to South Dakota to see Mt. Rushmore, or work our way home? The two-week delay in Elko caused our planned trip to South Dakota to bump up against Sturgis, a weeklong event that brings up to 500,000 motorcycle-loving people to the area. We decided not to fight the crowds and headed down to the Grand Tetons instead. We will have to include Mt. Rushmore on another trip.

Yellowstone

Yellowstone Day 1

We arrived at Yellowstone KOA Mountainside on August 2, quickly sped through our set-up procedures, and headed to Old Faithful. Our first wild animal encounter was a chipmunk eating a potato chip. He, or she, served as the entertainment for those of us waiting on benches for Old Faithful in Yellowstone National Park to erupt at its predictable time.

After a number of teases that excited the crowd for over twenty minutes, water and steam finally bubbled up and towered in the air.

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Old Faithful

When the show concluded, we followed the crowd on a loop trail back to the parking lot then hit the road to explore more of this unique geological wonder. Next stop, Grand Prismatic Spring, the largest hot spring in America and third largest in the world. We had seen pictures taken from a distance that were more spectacular than the ones we were able to create.

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Prismatic Spring

I did manage to capture images of several ball caps that had blown off the heads of spectators. It’s not a good idea to step off the wooden ramp to retrieve the wind-blown caps unless death by boiling is the aim.

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Ball Caps in Prismatic Spring

It’s amazing how trees can grow in such a hostile environment.

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Prismatic Spring Boardwalk

We ended our first day at Great Fountain Geyser and surrounding springs during a stunning sunset.

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Great Fountain Geyser At Sunset

Yellowstone Day 2

Back at the Visitor Education Center near Old Faithful, we watched a movie that told the history of Yellowstone and explained the geological events that create all the gurgling, bubbling, and spouting from deep within Earth. To see all of this in action, we walked a longer loop trail from Old Faithful and viewed more holes in the ground. The wind tugged on my hat and a geyser sprayed sulfur water on me while I snapped pictures of each of the holes and mounds.

I thought once I saw one geyser or spring, I’d seen them all. What I found instead were their unique personalities. Some mud pools bubbled at a slow boil, geysers spewed their white mud and built up mounds, while certain springs displayed colorful arrays of orange and yellow reflective of the bacteria that grew around the edges of the blue algae-laden pool.

I recognized the telltale death by geothermal activity in the ghost trees with white bark. I’d seen it before in Mammoth Lakes when Horseshoe Lake was closed for swimming because of the dangerous levels of volcanic activity.

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Ghost Trees

My treat, after one of the geysers sprayed me with sulfur water, was a butterfly that posed for a picture and then followed me a few feet along the path.

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Monarch on Fading Thistle

The forest continues its recovery from the 1988 Yellowstone fire, but there are still reminders of the devastation. On the West end of the park, a spattering of lodgepole pines tower over newly grown forest. The East and parts of the South ends of the park still have plenty of dead pines standing, but new growth in the form of tiny trees cluster around their base.

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Forest Recovering Slowly

Yellowstone Lake was a big surprise. I had never heard that Yellowstone had a lake so when we came around a bend in the road and saw the expanse of clear blue water peek through the tree branches I knew there was no way I could capture its breadth in one photo. Like Lake Tahoe, the water is clear and a vivid blue. We’ll have to rent a boat and take a spin around the lake if we venture this way again.

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Clear Blue Water of Yellowstone Lake

Our next stop was the rapids where cutthroat trout migrate to their spawning grounds. Had we not been detained in Elko NV for two weeks, we may have been able to see the fish struggle up the rapids.

Our next encounter with wildlife was bison. We pulled in to see Dragon’s Mouth Geyser and soon a herd of bison came toward the boardwalk to distract us from the geology. When a large bull powered down the hill toward where we stood, I headed for the parking lot not wanting a close encounter with the wooly kind. Other hardy souls stood their ground to snap pictures and endanger their lives.

Artists Paint Pots, Lower and Upper Falls, and the Grand Canyon along the way followed by a sighting of mule deer in the distance and our day ended.

Buckaroo Bills was a great place for dinner after a long day in the park. Youngsters as well as oldsters like the covered wagon tables in the back room.

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Buckaroo Bill’s in West Yellowstone

Yellowstone Day 3

Having spent the previous days bouncing from one stop-off site after another like Tasmanian devils, we took it a little slower visiting only the Mammoth Hot Springs area and catching Gibbon Falls on our way out of the park.

One thing to know about visiting Yellowstone is the traffic jams caused by wildlife sightings. People in their cars, motorhomes, and trucks park where ever on and off the road, grab their favorite picture taking device, and forgetting there is traffic trying to get through, walk out in front of vehicles all for the sake of that one great photo. We spent about forty-five minutes our last morning creeping along the road because of an Elk sighting. There was no room for us to stop but we did manage to catch a glimpse of Elk crossing the river a short distance from the road as we drove by. Fortunately, no tourists ended up on the grill of our truck.

We would have loved to stay at least another night, if not all month, but our reservation was up and it was time to move on to explore the east side of the park.

Idaho Falls, Idaho

On Friday, July 29 as we followed the emigrant trail headed east on Interstate 86, we were channeling our inner Willie Nelson and singing “On the Road Again.” So far, the truck troubles we encountered in Sparks and Elko no longer conspired against us.

We stopped at Massacre Rocks State Park and Register Rock to eat our lunch and have a quick look around. Panels outside of the visitor center, tell the story of Massacre Rocks, a narrow passage along the Oregon Trail (now Interstate 86) where emigrants often stopped to camp. The boulders, also known as “Gate of Death,” or “Devil’s Gate,” were so named because emigrants feared attacks by the Native Americans. Documented accounts of massacres and attacks took place east and west of the rocks during the 1850s and 1860s. Register Rock, protected by fencing and a shelter against the elements and persons intent on destruction, contains the names and dates of many emigrants who passed through the area.

As Jon and I guessed, we found Idaho Falls similar to Twin Falls with an abundance of water and farmland. Once we had settled in at the Snake River RV Park and Campground, we headed downtown where we found a park alongside the Snake River. We marveled at the smooth, calm waters on one side of the river, which flowed over the side onto rocks and boulders creating the falls. It definitely looked man made, but for what purpose?

We continued along the river walk where tall trees provided shade along a path lined with benches. We passed families with strollers, couples holding hands, and a father and son with fishing poles wagging over their shoulders. Then we came across the Idaho Falls Hydroelectric Bulb Turbine Project sign. I had never heard of this kind of power plant, could we possibly take a tour? We would have to wait until Monday to find out.

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Mr. Moose at the Greenbelt

Needing to replenish our fresh fruit and vegetable bins, we checked out the Saturday Farmers Market. At first, we were disappointed when crafts dominated the booths. But it turned out that the empty lot on one side of the street was for the craft vendors and the produce vendors were set up in the parking lot behind a bank, along with face painting for the kids, kettle corn, bread, jams, and sauces.

Afterward, an offer of “Free Taters for Out-of-Staters!” enticed us to visit the Idaho Potato Museum. They have a short video on growing and cultivation of the potato. A timeline depicts the introduction of the potato from the Andes to Europe by the conquistadors in the 1500s through the early 1800s when Henry Harmon Spalding, a Presbyterian missionary, introduced the potato to the Oregon Territory in 1836. Also included is the development of the Russett Burbank, or Netted Gem. Historians believe Mormon colonists were the first settlers to plant, grow, and harvest the tuber three years before Idaho joined the Union as a state.

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Idaho Potato Museum

A few things I learned about potatoes:

  • the potato plant and its berry-like fruit are poisonous to animals and humans,
  • farmers can harvest the spuds anytime after the plant dies back and before the first freeze,
  • don’t store potatoes with onions because they emit gasses that cause faster spoilage when they are together.

Oh, and our reward for touring the museum? A box of Hungry Jack Cheesy Scalloped Potatoes. Yum! A side dish to pair with barbecued chicken.

Craters of the Moon National Monument and Preserve was our next outing. As we drove up the road toward the park, visions of the Hawaiian Islands lava flows came to mind when we spotted miles and miles of lava rock, cinder cones, and buttes created between 2,000 and 15,000 years ago by the Great Rift volcanic eruptions.

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Panoramic View Looking East

The monument, at an average elevation of 5,900 feet above sea level, includes three lava fields and about 400 square miles of sagebrush steppe grasslands for a total area of 1,117 square miles. The monument receives between 15-20 inches of rain per year that eventually appears in springs and seeps in the walls of the Snake River Canyon. Now we know at least one source of all the water we saw in Twin Falls, Idaho.

Craters of the Moon was the best example of the National Park system I have seen. With well-maintained paved roads, above par signage with stats on trail mileage, elevation increases/decreases, and even the width of the path, it looked to be a model for other facilities. The park service is currently redoing the campground and as I imagined the landscape draped in moonlight, the word spooky came to mind.

We poked our heads in Dewdrop Cave, but we weren’t prepared like other visitors with their headlamps strapped around their foreheads. A permit is also required to enter Dewdrop and three other caves that spelunkers can explore. I think my favorite part was seeing the out-of-place pine trees, monkeyflower, syringa, and bitterroot growing from the basalt on the older lava flows, the little ground squirrels scurrying around, and pygmy rabbits blending in with the scenery.

We would like to return to Craters of the Moon someday, spend more time, maybe even venture into a couple of caves, and experience the place at night. Although, snagging a spot at the new campground might be a challenge.

On our way back to base camp we stopped at the yellow structure created by John Grade titled Spur, which was inspired by the lava tubes at Craters of the Moon.

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Spur Created by John Grade

Further up the road in Arco, stands a hill speckled with numbers. Each year, high school seniors paint the year of graduation on the hill.

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Arco Graduation Date Hill

The day had arrived for our private tour of Idaho Falls Power. We learned of the Teton Dam collapse in 1977 that destroyed an existing electric power plant along the river and that the construction of the Bulb Turbine project occurred between 1978 and 1982. Matt Evans, our tour guide, led us downstairs to a hatch in the floor that allowed us to see a turbine casing. They are similar in size to the ones used at Shasta and Hoover dams except they are placed on their sides, not upright.

The water flows through the facility at one end (picture with branches in the water) to power the turbines and exits at the other end (picture with swirling water) to continue its journey to Twin Falls and beyond. We had driven by the building a few days earlier and never guessed there was a power plant below the river surface. The distinctive landmark is the orange and white water tower shown in the farmer’s market picture above.

The apparatus we saw along the river walk diverts water for use at the power plant and releases the excess to create the falls. The plant channels 6000 cubic feet per second of water through the turbines to produce up to 8000 kilowatts of energy each. There are two other plant sites in the city and combined they produce approximately 100 million kilowatt-hours of electricity annually.

After the tour, we drove around town and found The Protector, an eagle monument believed to be the largest in the world. Created by Vic Payne and installed in 2006 for McNeil Development, it is the focal point in the center of a roundabout.

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The Protector by Vic Payne

With clean clothes, a stocked refrigerator, and reservations at Yellowstone Mountainside KOA, we were ready to hit the road again for our next adventure.

Twin Falls, Idaho

Golden-brown russet  potatoes, the kind we use for Thanksgiving dinners, came to mind as I switched the map from Nevada to Idaho. But I will forever associate Twin Falls, Idaho with water. Twin Falls is one of eight counties in south-central Idaho known as The Magic Valley. In the early 1900s, an enterprising individual convinced investors to build a canal system to carry water from the Snake River to the surrounding desert populated with sagebrush and grass. Remove the sagebrush, add water, and poof. Out pops fertile farmland.

Lush bright-green acres of potatoes, kale, and corn welcomed us as we neared Twin Falls. Golden fields of hay ready for harvest along with cattle and dairy farms rounded out the agricultural offerings. Our jaws dropped when we passed the first of many farms with giant Rainbirds spraying water on the crops and swamping the fields. Coming from California where every drop is precious and conservation is drilled into the residents at every turn, we could only think how wonderful it would be to have access to such an abundance of water. The reddish-orange color in the sunset sky is smoke from fires burning near Boise, 150 miles northwest from Twin Falls.

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Water, Water, Everywhere

We arrived at Anderson Camp RV Park, our new home for the next three nights, on July 26. The park offered shady, grassy spots with plenty of space between the neighbors. Anderson Camp is a well-maintained older park with a pool and twisty waterslide (for an extra fee). They have cabins to rent and space for tents. If we stop here in the future, we’ll be sure to ask for a site without a walnut tree. The birds and squirrels stripped the nuts of their shells and scattered the debris all over the picnic table, trailer, and truck and in the morning, we woke to little bombs hitting the roof of the trailer.

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Anderson Camp RV Site.

On the drive down the gorge toward Shoshone Falls, water gushed from the basalt canyon walls. One of the locals told us it was the dry season since the farmers had diverted much of the water to drench their crops. His definition of ‘dry season’ was wildly different from ours after living in a drought state for five years.

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Panoramic of Shoshone Falls and Snake River

The Shoshone Falls reminded me of a miniature version of the Niagara Falls. I can’t imagine what the water cascading over the boulders would be like at full strength. We saw pictures that showed the falls stretching from one side of the canyon to the next.

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Shoshone Falls Observation Deck

 

 

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Shoshone Falls

 

 

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House at top of Shoshone Falls

 

Dierkes Lake and the adjacent park, a favorite for residents and visitors alike, offers swimming, fishing, and picnicking in the cool shade of the large trees.

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Dierkes Lake

 

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Dierkes Lake Park

 

The current Hansen Bridge, built in 1966, spans 258 feet and is 350 feet tall. It replaced a suspension bridge built in 1919. Before the bridge was built, travelers used rowboats to cross the gorge. More smoke is evident on the horizon.

 

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Hansen Bridge

 

 

A kiosk on the south side of Hansen Bridge described the impact on the Snake River Plain from the Lake Bonneville Flood, which is believed to have occurred 15,000 years ago. Imagine a late Pleistocene lake covering 19,691 miles in northwest Utah releasing water at a rate of 15 million cubic feet per second into southeastern Idaho and on to the Columbia River in Oregon. The Great Salt Lake in Utah is what remains of Lake Bonneville. Also noted was how the emigrants followed the river on their way to Oregon stopping for a respite in Twin Falls. Another board told of entrepreneurs who developed the canal system promising a Magic Valley, and of other people who provided the goods and services to the new inhabitants of the territory or transport across the divide.

 

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Hansen Bridge Kiosk at the Overlook

 

Twin Falls Visitor Center offers maps and pamphlets of other sites to see in the surrounding areas. A walk under the highway leads to The Twins sculpture crafted by David Clemons and provides one of many perspectives of the Perrine Bridge that rises 486 feet above the Snake River. Its span is 1500 feet from rim to rim.

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View of Canyon from Northside of Perrine Bridge

 

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Snake River

 

 

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Perrine Bridge and Snake River

 

 

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The Twins by David Clemons. Perrine Bridge in background.

 

The dirt berm rising from the right side of the canyon is where  Evel Knievel attempted his jump across the river.

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Evel Knievel’s Snake River Jump Site

On our way to Hagerman Fossil Beds, we came across the Hagerman Sheep Monument, a tribute to the Basque sheepherders who settled in the area. The monument included statues of sheep, a sheepherder, and a replica wagon equipped with stove, sink, and bed just like a small trailer you might see today.

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Hagerman Sheep Monument

 

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Hagerman Sheep Monument

 

 

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Wagon at Hagerman Sheep Monument

 

Access points along the Snake River provide fishing, swimming, and boating. Loaner life vests are also available at some boat launches.

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River Access Point – Fishing Platform

 

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River Access Point

 

Another side trip was The Hagerman National Fish Hatchery. Outside in a demonstration pond, sturgeon and trout swam in the shadows.

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Sturgeon in the Demonstration Pond

Inside the building, we saw the zillion little fish in the tanks that one day will be planted in the lakes and river.

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Hagerman National Fish Hatchery Tanks with itty bitty fish swimming around.

We never did make it to the fossil beds. The ranger at the Forest Service Office recommended Thousand Springs State Park and Ritter Island instead due to the hot weather. More falls, water gushing from the canyon walls, and ankle-deep water  provided  a break from the heat of the day.

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Ritter Island

The Thousand Springs Hydroelectric Power Plant acquired in 1916 and updated in 1921 generates 8800 kilowatts. The castle-like architecture creates a sense of whimsy to what would otherwise be another hunk of concrete and steel.

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Idaho Thousand Springs Hydroelectric Power Plant

Our last day in Twin Falls, we went to the Rock Creek Station and Stricker Home.

 

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Panoramic View of Stricker Home Site

 

The cabin building in the photo was a store, a post office, and polling place from 1879 – 1897. The mounds behind the building are cellars, one wet, and one dry. I wanted to look inside the dark earthen cave, but thick cobwebs draped the doorways. No way was I going to pass through them into a spider infested space. To the right of the store once stood a station where stagecoaches stopped to change out their horses.

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Rock Creek Station

A creek runs behind the white house that was built in 1901. Apparently, there were up to forty buildings during the stagecoach days. This property must have been an oasis after traveling in a stagecoach across miles of dry land and sagebrush. Tours of the fully furnished house are available.

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Stricker Home

One last stop before we headed off to Idaho Falls. Centennial Waterfront Park is a great place to rent a kayak, eat a picnic, hike the trails, find rocks to climb, or . . .. We walked along a path at the water’s edge under shade trees and watched the kayakers glide across the water.

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Centennial Park with Perrine Bridge in the background
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Kayaks gliding across the water. Perrine Bridge in the background.

After three fun-filled days, it was time to move on. “Idaho Falls, here we come.” I expected to see a lot more water coming our way.