Elko, Nevada – Part 3

Always on the lookout for a tour of some kind, Jon and I lucked out getting reservations for one at a working gold mine. We met the bus and tour guide, Derek Sikes, at the Northeastern Nevada Museum in Elko. Derek showed a short video of how the Newmont Mining Corporation produces 60-pound gold bars from tons of earth that contain microscopic traces of gold. We boarded a bus that took us to the Gold Quarry Mine thirty miles west of Elko and north of Carlin. Once the bus entered the gate, traffic switched to the UK pattern of driving on the left side of the street. This is so the drivers of the earthmovers can see objects in their way. I found it disconcerting to see these giants lumber toward our dwarfed bus in between tall berms that mark the streets’ route.

The bus pulled up next to one of the gigantic earthmovers, and we all got out marveling at the big yellow beast with tires almost twice Jon’s height of 6’ 2”. A petite young woman climbed into the driver’s seat, started the motor, and caused the behemoth to shimmy like an elephant wearing a tutu. Then she raised the bucket to simulate how the ore is dumped.

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Perspective – JT is 6’2″
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Two-story Earthmover. The berm in the background conceals a road on the other side.

Our next stop was the pit where the company started its mining activity in 1979. Since then this site has produced 20 million ounces of gold and estimates show an additional 7 million remains. The pit is 1.5 miles across and 1900 feet deep. Production plans call for them to dig down another 300 feet.

On the left side of the pit, are terraced walls while on the right side the wall slopes evenly. This is due to a slide that occurred. Engineers monitor sensors that detect such an occurrence. Fortunately, the company was able to stop activity at the mine so no one was injured during the slide.

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Gold Quarry Mine Pit
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Earthmovers waiting for a load on the other side of the pit.

Newmont is also working an underground mine at this location. Buildings, a tractor, and an entrance to a tunnel are shown here. From the rim of the pit, the tunnel entrance appeared small but after watching one of the earthmovers disappear through the dark hole in the side of the mountain we got a sense of its size.

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Underground Mine Tunnel

The technology of mining for gold sure has changed since the Gold Rush era when men waded up to their knees in a river and sifted sand and pebbles with tin pans to find little nuggets.

The next day we took NV-225 north from I-80 on the way to Tuscarora Ghost Town. Left at NV-226 took us through canyons, rolling hills, and sagebrush where ranches sprinkled the landscape. The turn off at County Hwy-723 made us a little leery about driving on the gravel road, but we found that it was in better condition than many of our California paved roads. Although considered a ghost town, people still live and even work in Tuscarora.

The Tuscarora Cemetery greets visitors on the right and as the road curves into town, the post office sits on the left. Next to the post office is the museum, which is only open on Sunday. Evidence of old mineshafts is marked with mounds of dirt used to cover the gaping holes. Many of the lots contain ruins of homes, rusted out cars and trucks. Even tin cans and bed springs litter the grounds of what once was a large house or hotel with facing fireplaces. Although some of the buildings look like rundown shacks with their weathered wood siding, tin fences, and overgrown grass, a few residents inhabit other homes, and modern cars seem out of place in this once thriving community.

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Tuscarora Nevada Cemetery
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Gas Station Ruins Tuscarora Nevada
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Tuscarora Nevada Museum
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Bed springs and tin cans littered the area near the fireplaces
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Facing Fireplaces. Was this a house or a hotel?
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Tuscarora ruins or occupied cabin and trailer?

Whenever I cross paths with a cemetery, a desire takes hold to stop and wander among the mausoleums and tombstones with etched names and dates on granite or simple crosses, and around the protective wood and iron fences. I wonder about the lives of the people laid to rest. Take the simple markers for Kate and T.C. Plunkett. Who was this couple, when did they come to Tuscarora, was James their son, and what was the secret to their long lives?

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Tuscarora Cemetery Gravesite
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Plunkett Gravesites Tuscarora Cemetery

The town boasts The Tuscarora Summer Pottery School where a person can spend two weeks learning about and creating pottery. Our friendly tour guide, one of the students, said she had made some 60 pieces so far. Simple but comfortable accommodations are provided in the once-upon-a-time hotel, along with three meals per day.

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Tuscarora Hotel and Pottery School
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Students at Tuscarora Pottery School
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Tuscarora Pottery School Kiln
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Finished Pottery Pieces
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Art in the Garden Tuscarora Nevada

Not interested in making pottery? Nancy Harris McLelland, a retired writing teacher from Mendocino, offers one-on-one writing retreats. Her accommodations include a vintage Airstream  trailer or a cozy sheep wagon. Click on Nancy’s name above for more information.

We had been in Elko for six days, and every night we counted the RVers that pulled into their site and set up for the night. Each morning, the couples and families coiled up their electrical, water, and sewer hoses and stored their camp chairs and stoves before driving up the steep hill to the main road. I wanted to shout, no, don’t leave, stay awhile and explore. I was somewhat glad we ended up stuck in Elko. We would have missed a lot had we just passed through.

On Saturday, we took in a little local culture at the Nifty Fifty Family Fun Day held at the senior center. The advertisement announced a carnival, ’50s music, a soda shop menu, and a car show. We didn’t expect the show to be as big as the events produced by the GoodGuys four times a year at the Alameda County Fairgrounds, but we expected more than nine cars.

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Nifty Fifty Family Fun Day Elko Nevada

We decided to skip the outdoor 1950s movie night at the museum and headed out to Carlin Canyon. The National Historical Trail and wayside interpretive kiosks provided us another opportunity to visualize ourselves camping along the Humboldt River on our way from Missouri to California.

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A short stop at the Chinese Garden Nature Study Area and its algae infested pond completed our trip for the day.

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Pond at Chinese Garden
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Purple Thistle at Chinese Garden

On Monday, July 18, we arrived early for our appointment at the dealership and dropped off the truck with the anticipation we would be back on the road by Tuesday or Wednesday. No such luck. It would be another week before the parts would arrive. We enlisted help from General Motors customer service whose function is not to provide service, only to listen to complaints and pass them back to the dealership. At first, I was okay without having a vehicle to tool around in for a day or two. It gave us time to relax after our long drives to see the sights and catch up with the clothes washing. By the fourth day, however, I had developed camper fever from having our travel radius restricted to only a couple of miles. Finally, a loaner came in. My attitude improved markedly when I snuggled into the soft leather seats of the GMC loaner pickup. Yeah! We were free to roam again.

Now that we had wheels again, visiting a few more sights was in order. First up was a drive to Ruby Lake on the other side of Harrison Pass on County Road-718. We didn’t actually see the lake, though. A miscalculation of the fuel range in the loaner truck required us to turn around so we would make it back to town before running out of gas. The drive wasn’t as beautiful as Lamoille Canyon. It’s more of an off-roaders dream with different routes to explore the Ruby Mountains.

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Ruby Mountains Rock Formation

Our next drive was to Rio Tinto, another ghost town, and an abandoned National Forest Service complex on NV-225.

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Rio Tinto Ruin
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Abandoned Forest Service Complex
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Well House at Abandoned Forest Service Complex

The highlight of the ride was Wild Horse State Recreation Area and reservoir. The campground (not shown) looked like a great place to spend a couple of nights.

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Wild Horse State Recreation Area

Two weeks had been a week too long to stay put in one place. Now when I saw the RVers loading up and driving away, I wanted to shout, wait, take me along. We wished, hoped, prayed, and crossed our fingers and toes that we would be back on the road Tuesday morning.

 

 

 

 

Elko, Nevada – Part 2

Western movies and television shows sparked my interest in early American history. Stories about families loading up their possessions and joining a wagon train to travel 2,000 miles from Missouri to California are among my favorites. Hollywood rarely invests in this genre anymore, but the Bureau of Land Management’s California Trail Interpretive Center allowed me to imagine what life was like on the emigrant trail.

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California Trail Interpretive Center

The building sits above Interstate 80 on the west side of Elko, Nevada. Easy hiking trails behind the building take hikers to overlooks of the Humboldt River, South Fork, and the California Trail.

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JT reading California Trail outdoor display

A replica wagon train camp illustrated life on the trail. I tried to picture myself wearing a dusty and dirty petticoat, cotton dress, and bonnet, cooking the evening meal over a hot fire fueled by chopped wood or cow pies.

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California Trail Interpretive Center Wagon Camp
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Wagon Camp Cooking Pit

Inside, dioramas depict the daily chores and entertainment engaged in by the emigrants. Pioneer letters, lists of provisions, statistics on deaths, maps, timelines, and other information, rounds out the displays. I have to admire the courage of the emigrants who dared to make the 4 1/2-month trek, suffering disease, tragic accidents, starvation, and even death along the way.

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California Interpretive Center Diorama

Today we zip along the highway at 70 miles an hour tugging our mobile house with a bathroom, galley, refrigerator, and soft mattress. The next time an urge to complain about how far we have to drive, the trailer’s tiny bathroom, or my stuffed closet, takes hold of me, I’ll think about the emigrants walking next to their oxen and wagon and be thankful for our modern conveniences.

***

On Wednesday, a loop drive on Highway 229 took us through rolling green hills, another beautiful canyon, and cattle ranches.

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Lush Canyon Vegetation – No water shortage here

We marveled at the blue sky we encountered everywhere we turned. The rolled bales of hay, fermenting in the sun, dotting the wide-open landscapes were an unfamiliar sight. We were used to the rectangular bales.

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Rolling Green Hills and 900 LB Rolled Bales of Hay

In front of the gated Mustang Monument property was a perfect place to stop and eat a snack. We could see a few buildings in the distance but no farming equipment, no horses or other farm animals, and no other type of activity. My curiosity was peaked. It was time to search the internet. If you are in the market for an eco-resort or American safari, you can tailor your adventure to your liking for the reasonable price of $1950 a night for a cottage or $1650 a night for a luxury tipi. All meals, alcohol, and adventures are included. I wonder if we could get a discount for bringing our own accommodations.

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Mustang Monument Eco-Resort

We gave the truck a work out on Highway 231 for the 11 miles up to Angel Lake, our last stop on the loop drive. Waterfalls feed the small alpine lake at an elevation of 8,500 feet where fishing and canoeing are popular. Several picnic areas near the parking lot are tucked in around the vegetation, giving visitors a sense of privacy. Angel Lake Campground is adjacent to the lake, and Angel Creek Campground is down the hill at an elevation of 6,800 feet for campers who wish to stay overnight.

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Angel Lake Waterfall
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View of Angel Lake from Trail to Waterfall
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Angel Lake after Sunset

The truck continued running at full power. We had four more days traipsing around Elko. Would we find enough to do?

Elko, Nevada – Part 1

On Sunday, July 10, we left Sparks in our rearview mirror and headed across the desert toward Elko, Nevada, with a quick stop in Lovelock for lunch. The courthouse parking lot gave us plenty of space for our rig in this quaint town.

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Lovelock County Court House
A walk around the building to stretch our legs seemed like a good idea and what should we see but clusters of locks hooked to chains stretched between short pillars.

img_8918There must have been thousands, from old rusty locks to shiny new locks, engraved locks, and plain locks. Name a brand. I’m sure it’s represented somewhere in Lovers Lock Plaza. Had we brought along our own lock to add to the bunch, I’m not sure where it could have been clipped.img_8922

We pulled into Iron Horse RV Resort where we planned to stay for three or four nights. Iron Horse is unique in that customers also have access to the Hilton Garden Inn up the hill, including a discount for a hot breakfast. Although they advertise a pool at both the RV section and the hotel, they are not large enough to propel your body for more than one stroke. We did, however, make good use of the treadmills and dumbbells at the inn, using the walk up the steep hill to the Hilton as our warmup.

Let the sightseeing begin.

Anxious to start poking around, we packed a lunch and hit the road the next morning. A few minutes later, a check engine light flashed on the dash. Now what? A quick look in the manual revealed a possible problem with the deisel exhaust fluid (DEF) system, which is the equivalent of smog control for diesels. Great! The situation wasn’t critical so off we drove.

What a surprise to find an oasis like Lamoille Canyon after 290 miles of crossing the flat and rolling desert hills from Reno.

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Ruby Mountains – Still snow on them hills

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View of valley from overlook
The geology, flora, and fauna of Lamoille Canyon reminded me of sights in Yosemite and Mammoth Lakes.

The canyon, twelve-miles long, is the largest valley in the Ruby Mountains and includes waterfalls, sparkling pools, snow-dotted peaks, campgrounds, picnic areas, and hiking trails. I felt sorry for all the travelers up on Interstate 80 missing this experience. It’s a perfect respite from the monotony of driving through the desert.

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Indian Paintbrush
Large sections of tree stumps showed evidence that beavers had been hard at work.

 

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Beaver Chew Marks

Except in pictures and movies, I had never seen a pond built by beavers. This one reminded me of an infinity pool.

 

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Beaver Infinity Pool

When driving through Elko, Nevada, the short detour through Lamoille Canyon is a great place to break up the monotony of freeway travel.

 

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Hanging Valley

 

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Canyon’s End

Back in town, it was time for a visit to the local GMC dealer. The service writer hooked up his diagnostic scanner and confirmed there was an issue with the DEF sensor(s). The fix usually results in pulling and replacing the reservoir. “The earliest we can get you in is next Monday. The worse that can happen is the truck will lose power.” What? That didn’t sound good. Losing power while pulling 8,000 pounds up a hill, was not something we wanted to tackle.

We were stuck in Elko for at least another week. Everyone we talked to before our trip had encouraged us to make reservations. We were glad we hadn’t listened. No reservations, no need to cancel. We prefer to keep our options open to explore a place in more depth, leave when we want, or pivot when complications arise beyond our control.

A week wasn’t so bad. We had more time to explore.