Spring 2023 Adventure Episode 18: St. George, Utah

On Monday morning May 8, 2023, we left Moab for a long drive to St. George, Utah. We planned a few extra days there to visit our niece and her partner and check out the area before a couple back-to-back driving days.

This is Living by Damian Radice

St. George City

Had we known St. George possessed a rich array of art in the city, we would have stopped before on one of our trips along Interstate 15. Murals grace sides of buildings, sculptures stand center stage in the middle of roundabouts, and bronze statues and other art pieces pop up on sidewalks.

Utah Pioneer Robert Gardner Jr. by Jerry Anderson

Athletics are another attraction in St. George with a Triathlon in April and the North American Ironman 70.3 Championship Qualifying event in May. Whether outdoor enthusiasts prefer hiking, biking, walking, or running they are sure to find a trail to satisfy their wants and needs among 23 trails covering 62 miles around the city.

Flight Time Girls and Boys by Gary Lee Price

Morman families settled the area in 1861 to raise cotton. While the cotton crops never became an important commodity, the communities consisting of farmers, masons, blacksmiths, businessmen, and men in other occupations continued to thrive and grow.

Desert Trumpet by Reven Marie Swanson

Elder Erastus Fairbanks Snow served as the president over the Cotton Mission from 1861 to 1888. He also supervised the construction of the St. George Tabernacle and the St. George Temple at the same time.

Elder Erastus Franklin Snow Memorial

A couple invited us into the tabernacle and told us about the history of the building and the recent renovations made during 2016 to 2018. The renovations updated the structure and returned the interior and exterior to represent its 19th century appearance.

Mormon Tabernacle

While collecting my resources on the history of the tabernacle, I noticed a discrepancy in dates. One source stated, “a place for community gatherings since 1869—before its completion in 1876.” Yet a plaque below the clock tower and steeple claims, “Holiness to the Lord Commenced A.D. 1863 Completed A.D. 1871.” What was correct?

The construction timeline in another resource showed the first cornerstone laid on June 1, 1863, the limestone foundation completed on July 30, 1865. The timeline further states last stone laid on December 29, 1871 and the last roof shingle placed the following day dates consistent with the plaque.

So, was it completed in 1876 or 1871? The timeline continued and finally I found the missing piece to the puzzle. Although the exterior of the building was completed in 1871, it took almost five more years to complete the interior work before Brigham Young Junior dedicated the building on May 14, 1876. Whew! Mystery solved. It shouldn’t have been so hard to find the pieces that fit. I must be losing my sleuthing skills.

Ascent by Gary Lee Price
Spiral Spirals #2 Yellow by Christopher Thomson
Oh what fun it is!
Book Peddlers by Jack Morford
Gold Star Families Memorial Monument
Ready to Play by Deveren Farley
I never saw a carousel without taking a ride
The old next to the new
We ate lunch at Kairos. Sad to read they closed permanently. They had good food.
Mural by TJ Eisenhart who used local athletes as models
Brigham Young by Ed Hlavka
Hitchin’ A Ride by L’Deane Trueblood
Nice pony!
Honoring the Ironman 70.3 Competition
Bird Woman by Cheryl Collins and Trent Ripplinger

Snow Canyon State Park

Our niece Denice and her partner John took us on a short hike in Snow Canyon State Park. Like much of the land in Utah, artifacts reveal human activity in the park dating back to 500 B.C. way before the 19th-century settlers.

One of the Snow Canyon State Park trails

Hmmm, Snow. Was the park named after Elder Snow who we met at the tabernacle? Yes indeed, according to the park pamphlet.

Visitors will find rolling petrified dunes, red and white sandstone cliffs among the shiny black of lava flows. Activities include hiking, climbing, canyoneering, biking, equestrian, and camping. I counted 22 hiking trails ranging from easy to difficult with distances from 0.5 mile to 16 miles.

John and Denice had recently moved into the house in the photos below. I was impressed at how the home integrated with the surrounding landscape as if it had invited the outside inside.

Welcome. Come on in.

So, what was our assessment of the St. George area? It was a great place to stop and spend time. There are other things we could have done had we planned to do so such as: explore more of Snow Canyon State Park, visit Sand Hollow State Park, check out the Gila monster in The Red Cliffs Desert Reserve, paddle board in Ivins Reservoir, and take in more of the city offerings.

On May 11, 2023, we left St. George and Utah behind as we continued west. We crisscrossed the Virgin River a few times as we drove through the red rock canyon until, bam! As if someone pulled the stage curtain to reveal a desert backdrop. We continued on Interstate 15 through Las Vegas until we arrived at the Barstow KOA to rest for the night. The next day we slid into the Lost Hills KOA, and then on to the Bay Area and home.

Wrap Up

Over two months and eighteen episodes, we incurred a broken trailer axle, spent time with family, and visited four presidential museums or historic sites, two railways, an heirloom seed company, gardens, lakes, nuclear museum, caverns, a national park, and much more.

Thanks to everyone who came along for the ride. We appreciate the dear readers who take time from their busy days to read about our adventures.

It’s always good to pull up in front of the house after a long trip and after this one, it was especially gratifying to go behind the house to see how our four-month-old plants fared while we were gone. We were pleased to see they had not suffered from our absence, thanks to the drip irrigation system Jon controls with a phone app.

Our backyard

Next up: We sleep in a tent cabin and go on safari.

Safe Travels

Spring 2023 Adventure Episode 17: Arches National Park in Moab, Utah

Arches National Park had been on our must-see list for at least six years. Each time we were near Moab, we either didn’t have time to stop or we couldn’t get reservations near enough to make it worthwhile. I braced for disappointment again when I called the first RV park on my list. When I heard the words, “Yes, we can accommodate you on those dates,” I felt like I won a jackpot and jumped for joy around the fifth wheel until I made myself dizzy.

Wilson’s Arch: drive-by photo taken June 4, 2019

But first we had one more stop. On May 5, 2023, we continued traveling west on Highway 50, noticing the difference between prairie and high deserts as we passed through the continental divide. The awe-inspiring scenery captured my attention as the landscape zipped along outside the windshield. Through Canon City and Royal Gorges, advertisements flashed by for helicopter rides and river rafting and historic towns to explore. Budding trees rose above dry grasses, yellow sage brush, and junipers served as the foreground to the distant snow-capped mountain ranges and peaks. Spring is a wonderful time to travel.

Gunnison KOA

We stopped at the Gunnison KOA in Gunnison, Colorado, for the night. Burros, a small horse, and other farm animals had the run of the place, grazed on the grass in between the RV sites, and provided entertainment for the campers. When walking around, we kept an eye out for road apples.

Nibble, nibble
This rig had all the toys

The next day we arrived at Sun Outdoors in North Moab, thankful we had finally made it, and in time to run a few loads of laundry through the washer and dryer. Laundry done, we ate dinner and retired early so we could make our 7:00 am reservation for park entrance. Timed reservations are required from April-October between 7:00 am and 4:00 pm. And even with reservations, the lines to enter the park can be long.

Arches National Park, boasting over 2,000 arches (the largest in the world), became a national park in 1971. Before congress named Arches as a national park it held the distinction as a national monument from April 12, 1929, the date Herbert Hoover designated it as such. Wow! Almost 100 years ago.

Balanced rock
Plenty of snow on them thar hills

We had only a short wait to pass through the Arches gate and begin our tour. After a stop at Balanced Rock, we headed to the top of the park and worked our way back down, stopping at various sites for short hikes to rock formations and views.

View on the trail
Jon holding up a tree
Walking the trail
Not sure what this formation is called. Looks like bales of wool to me.
Landscape Arch

Besides Herbert Hoover, two other people deserve our thanks for saving Arches from development: Loren “Bish” Taylor who editorialized the marvels of Moab in the Moab newspaper in 1911, and John “Doc” Williams who teamed up with Rio Grande Western Railroad in 1923 to bring visitors to the area by train and promote Arches as a national park.

Not sure of this Arch’s name
Posing with one fine juniper tree
Wooly Locoweed
Closer view with sunlight

Behind us in the photo below was a tight squeeze and slanted, sandy, shale. This was a year after breaking my wrist, so I wasn’t about to tempt fate and risk another slipper slope.

Scaredy Cats

A permit obtained through Recreaction.gov is required for a self-guided tour of Fiery Furnace.

Fiery Furnace Viewpoint 1
Fiery Furnace Viewpoint 2

Wolfe Ranch (also known as Turnbow) was a one-room, 17′ x 15′ wood-floored cabin built by John Wolfe in 1906 to house a family of six. A root cellar, irrigation dams, and a corral rounded out the ranch where the family grazed 1,000 head of cattle on the surrounding land.

Wolfe Ranch Cabin and Corral
Wolfe Ranch Root Cellar

The Zuni, Hopi, Ute, Paiute and other American tribes are known to have traveled through and camped in the area where they hunted and gathered plants and made their marks on the rock walls.

Petroglyph panel

Beyond the petroglyph panel was a 3-mile roundtrip strenuous trek to Delicate Arch. We opted for a view from Upper Delicate Arch Viewpoint.

We arrived at the same time as a small tour group, yet we all had plenty of room to spread out and enjoy the view. Some people took off across the sandstone to the Arch itself. Zoom in close and they look like ants crawling around the foot of castles.

Delicate Arch and Other Formations

Delicate Arch from the Upper Delicate Arch Viewpoint was my favorite view. The rock formations in a row reminded me of a caravan traveling along the ridge with Delicate Arch leading the way.

Closer view where specs of people at the foot provide perspective of the arch’s size
Close up of the nooks and crannies in this boulder
Desert Primrose

The rocks and formations in Arches were formed from volcanic ash containing iron. Mostly we see the red rocks, sand, and hills which were created in an oxygen rich environment. The green rocks and hills were formed in a low-oxygen environment typically under water during the Jurassic period.

View showing a mix of the red and green rocks

Claret cup or scarlet hedgehog cactus in bloom. I like the way they cuddle up to each other. The hedgehog cactus is native to the southwest from California to Texas.

Claret Cup Hedgehog

Although the reservations are timed, that doesn’t mean no lines. If the park is too congested, park officials will restrict access for up to to 3-5 hours. Come prepared with food, plenty of water, sunscreen, and don’t forget to use the restrooms before lining up and entering the park.

Whew! We enjoyed our visit to Arches and would love to return one day in the future if possible. For now, though, we are satisfied we finally made it.

Next Up: St. George, Utah, then on to California and home.

Safe Travels

Spring 2023 Adventure Episode 16: Manitou Springs and Pike’s Peak Railway

We missed riding the Broadmoor Manitou & Pikes Peak Cog Railway during our visit to Colorado Springs in September 2018 because it was closed for renovation. Instead, we made it to the top by driving about halfway up the mountain and taking a shuttle the rest of the way.

2018 Visit to Pikes Peak summit by truck and shuttle

So, on our way back to California in May 2023, we made a point to stop and ride the brand-new train and allow a couple days to acclimate to the higher altitude. We arrived at Pike’s Peak RV Park in Manitou Springs on May 2, 2023. Dinner at the Cliff House Hotel was a good idea after our long drive. The salmon and trout were delicious entrees accompanied by the tastiest rosemary bread I’ve eaten and the peach cobbler was the perfect choice for dessert.

Cliff House Hotel and Restaurant

We booked reservations at The Miramont Castle for the next day where we enjoyed high tea at the Queen’s Parlour Tea Room. They serve up mouthwatering sweet and savory bites that satisfy the taste buds, along with several varieties of teas.

Miramont Castle

City of Manitou

After stuffing ourselves, we needed a walk along the streets of Manitou. We hadn’t taken the time to wander the streets the last time and were surprised to find the colorful buildings, spring water fountains, and art pieces along the sidewalks.

A spring runs through it
Shops along the street

We stopped at the Stratton and Cheyenne Springs for photo opportunities. In all, there are eight carbonated springs that flow under the town.

Spring Maiden sculpture by Fred Darpino

For anyone wanting to take a tasting tour of the springs, stop by the Chamber of Commerce and Visitors Bureau to pick up a map and collapsible souvenir cups for $2.00.

Untitled sculpture by Paul Roger

In front of the Armadillo Ranch Bar, Restaurant, and Live Music Venue is where the guitar sculpture “Comforting Melody” by Flaminio Antonio was installed in September 2022 under a one-year contract.

Armadillo Ranch Bar, Restaurant, and Live Music

On January 30, 2024, Creative Alliance Manitou Springs began a campaign to raise $6,000 to purchase the scrap metal sculpture for a permanent installation. As of March 11, 2024, they have collected $4,525 toward the purchase. To learn more or to donate, visit Here.

“Comforting Melody” by Flaminio Antonio
Detail of guitar sculpture

Broadmoor Manitou and Pikes Peak Cog Railway

We have Zalmon G. Simmons to thank for the creation of the Pikes Peak Cog Railway. In 1888, after a two-day trip by mule up Pikes Peak while surveying Englemann Canyon for telegraph lines, Simmons wanted a mode of transportation that was a quicker and more comfortable ride to the summit. Fortunately he had the means and the will to fund the construction of a railway. Construction began in 1889, limited service opened in 1890, and by 1891, the trains reached the top of Pikes Peak.

Railway yard and barn
Depot
Cog railway tracks
Inside the railway car

We boarded the train, excited to see what changes had been made at the visitor center. In a word, it was ‘awesome’. Where the cramped shed-like building commanded the top spot, a sprawling multi-story building with glass walls took its place. The views from inside the building were as spectacular as those outside.

Come on everybody, here we go

Steam locomotives were the first workhorses, then diesel in 1938, followed by self-propelled railcars purchased from Swiss Locomotive and Machine Works in 1964.

Balancing rock
Aspen grove

To accommodate the increase in tourism in the 1970s, two passing sidings were built at Minnehaha and at Windy Point to allow trains to pass on the hill. This allowed the railway to operate eight trains per day instead of only three. And business boomed.

First passing siding
Second passing siding

While preparing for a major maintenance project in the fall of 2017, the work crew realized the maintenance project would not be sufficient. A complete overhaul was required. In March 2018, the railway was closed indefinitely.

The owners, Anschutz Corporation, and the City of Manitou Springs signed an agreement in November 2018 to fund the estimated $36 million renovation through tax breaks over a 50-year period. The project consisted of replacing the track infrastructure; rebuilding the visitor center, depot, other facilities, and older railcars; and purchasing three new trainsets. Work began in March 2019 and reopened on May 20, 2021.

We’re here

It’s interesting that the railway took three years to build initially, and 138 years later, it took a little over two years to completely rebuild the world’s highest and longest cog railroad in the Northern Hemisphere.

Pikes Peak Visitor Center

All interior and external areas surrounding the visitor center are ADA compliant. Inside, guests will find a snack bar, interactive and interpretive exhibits, and a gift shop. And the 1,500 pound donut machine has returned to the delight of previous travelers to the mountain.

Snow piled high
View from second floor of building

Although we enjoyed the ride up and down the mountain, we found that one day was not sufficient to acclimate to conditions at the peak. Within minutes, Jon’s altitude sickness attacked him so badly that he returned to the railcar.

View from top deck

I ignored the awful feeling the best I could and walked slowly on the ice and snow while taking photos. I wanted to enjoy the views as much as I could since I figured we’d never make it to the top again. The air is too thin at fourteen thousand feet for our bodies to function properly.

View from upper level
Time to go

We recommend riding the Broadmoor and Pikes Peak Cog Railway when traveling near Colorado Springs. Just be aware that altitude sickness is real, especially for those of us who live near sea level. More days of acclimating and staying hydrated can help reduce symptoms, but they may not eliminate them.

If interested in reading about our trip to Colorado Springs in 2018, go here.

Next Up: We continue west toward Arches National Park

Safe Travels

Spring 2023 Adventure Episode 15: A One-Night Stop in Goodland, Kansas

We’re Back! And We’re Glad!

Our last post was on December 5, 2023, which featured our visit to the Dwight D. Eisenhower Presidential Library and Museum during our Spring Adventure. Jon’s hernia surgery, my broken arm, and various medical appointments limited my time at the keyboard for several weeks. I’ve been playing catchup ever since. A word of caution: Jetways may be slippery when wet, so hang onto the handrails.

Now, on to this week’s post. A short one as we get back into the groove.

We headed from Salina, Kansas, on May 1, 2023, and traveled to the Goodland, Kansas, KOA. We arrived early enough to poke around close by. Goodland’s claim to fame is the “Big Easel,” a reproduction of van Gogh’s painting “Three Sunflowers in a Vase” by Cameron Cross. At 80 feet tall, it is known as the World’s Largest Easel, according to the World Record Academy.

The Big Easel

Down the road is the High Plains Museum, operated by the City of Goodland. Artifacts include items donated, such as a replica of the first patented helicopter, the Goodland’s Flying Machine co-invented by William J. Purvis and Charles E. Wilson.

Replica of first helicopter to receive a patent

The displays also included a 1902 Holsman Auto owned and driven by Dr. A. C. Gulick, a Sherman County Physician. The car is missing a few safety features compared to our modern vehicles.

1902 Holsman Auto

Dioramas reflect the town as it might have appeared during its founding, along with various machinery, equipment, and household goods.

One of many dioramas

Next door to the KOA sits a historic farmhouse under renovation. I wondered who once lived there and who might live there again some day. According to the owner, they bought the house 37 miles away and moved it to its new location. She was out watering the trees, which were not doing well because of the drought in the area.

Historic home under renovation

If we pass through this area again, we might stay more than one night and take in other roadside and historical sites. I hear the Giant Grasshopper made from tractor parts is a must see quirky tourist sight.

Next stop: Colorado Springs, Colorado

Safe Travels