Rain tapping on the sliding glass door woke me at 5 a.m. on day 6 of our Alaskan cruise. The ship felt stationary in calm waters. Fog and low clouds swirled around tall mountains rising from the surface of the water. It was time to grab the camera and see the sights.
Glacier runoff waterfall
Glacier runoff and snowmelt rushed down the mountains in waterfalls entering the sea in a splash. Scarred mountain faces wore the signs of a glacier movement from years past.
Glacier carved cliffs
Draped in green, hanging valleys appeared midway down from the peaks.
A waterfall cuts through a hanging valley
The ship sailed through mini icebergs floating in the water, their white and blue colors sparkling under the cloudy skies.
Icebergs come in all shapes and sizes
Years of compression forcing out tiny air pockets between the crystals creates denser glacial ice over time. The dense ice absorbs a small amount of red leaving the bluish tint in the reflected light that we see. Tiny air bubbles are still encased in the ice that we see as white.
Deep blue means denser ice compared to the whiteAnother iceberg
Shorebirds hitched rides on the icebergs. An eagle even gave us an aerial show. Unfortunately, bears, goats, deer, or harbor seals did not appear for a sighting.
Gulls take a ride on an icebergIt’s not everyday we see an eagle
As we navigated toward the Sawyer glacier, the overcast skies, occasional rains, and stately mountains on either side of the ship created a spiritual atmosphere that was humbling given the forces of nature that created this magnificent environment.
Humbling sights
We weren’t the only tourists to experience the scenery. We shared the splendor with a smaller cruise ship and a private yacht.
The Seabourn SojournThe Serenity
The triangular shape of the North Sawyer Glacier came into view. Although the ship had to keep its distance due to the ice floating in the water, it was a sight to behold. The rubber boat, filled with passengers from the smaller ship, gave the massive cliffs perspective.
Sawyer GlacierUp close and personal
Obligatory selfies, of course, were required to document our presence near the glacier.
After seeing the Sawyer Glacier in Tracy Arm from a distance, we wondered what a trip to Glacier Bay might reveal. Hmm, perhaps another cruise is in our future.
Puffy clouds and blue skies in Juneau gave way to cloudy, rainy, and windy weather in Skagway. An early morning walk along the promenade deck revealed majestic mountains rising from the bay.
Arriving in Skagway, Alaska
We weren’t the only ship in port. In the foreground is where the ferry docks. Note the tube that passengers walk through on their way to shore.
Other ships in port
Our excursion for the day was a ride on the White Pass Yukon Railroad, an International Historic Engineering Landmark. We arrived about 30 minutes before the departure time and joined the queue. The best thing to do when waiting in line is to pull out the camera and find things to photograph. Geometric shapes will do.
Raindrops on wrought iron fence
Thank goodness the crew allowed us to board early when the drizzle turned into a full-on rain. Many of the passengers carried umbrellas to ward off the drops. While waiting for the all aboard, I spied this pair walking beside the train.
Watermelon umbrella
Built in 1898 during the Klondike Gold Rush, the narrow gauge train climbed 2,865 feet in elevation from the port to White Pass Summit. Crewmembers pointed out mountains, glaciers, gorges, waterfalls, and historic sites as the train traversed the rails through tunnels and atop trestles during the 40-mile round trip tour. It wasn’t the best day for seeing all the sites as clouds shrouded many of them.
Mountains, valleys, trees, and clouds, oh my
We shared a train car with other tourists and a triplet of older couples from Germany. One woman in the group from Germany was so excited she reminded me of a hyperactive child who forgot to take her Ritalin. In and out the door she came and went, hogging the space on the platform, snapping photos on her mobile phone, humming, and chit-chatting with her family members, all the while with a big smile on her face. I doubt she sat down for more than five minutes.
Waterfall tumbles over rock-faced cliffs
After the woman shoved me aside a couple of times while I attempted to take my photos, I gave up. Perhaps she would cede possession of the platform and let the rest of us take photos on the way back down the mountain.
Glacier runoff on its way to the sea
During the Gold Rush, mounted police stationed at the cabin shown in the photo below checked the provisions carried by people wishing to enter the territory to ensure their supplies were sufficient to sustain every man, woman, and child for at least one year. If provisions were not sufficient, entry into Canada was denied. The flags of the United States, Alaska, Yukon Territory, British Columbia, and Canada fly next to the cabin.
Flags and cabin at White Pass Summit
The train switched direction at Summit Lake. We all stood up, moved the backs of our seats from rear to front, and changed seats from one side of the train to the other. This allowed everyone the opportunity to have views from the windows, either going up the mountain or down.
White Pass Yukon Train engine
Yes, my turn to take photos. I hurried out the door to claim my space on the platform, snapped a few shots and let a couple take my place. I was shocked when the woman barged out the door and muscled her way between the couple so she could click away with her phone.
Crossing a gorge
I must admit I may have been a bit rude myself on the way back to the dock in order to capture the photos I did. The woman just would not budge otherwise. This was my last opportunity to capture the Ghost Trestle and I wasn’t going to miss out.
Ghost TrestleYes, all cars made it across the bridgeAnother bridge on the other side of the canyonMore mountains, valleys, trees, and clouds
Isn’t Bridal Veil Falls beautiful? I wondered how many falls are called bridal veil falls. Wikipedia lists 24 in the United States, 5 in New Zealand, 4 in Chile, 3 in Canada, and 8 in other countries.
Bridal Veil Falls
We looked forward to exploring the little town of Skagway when we returned to the station, except the rain and cold pushed us toward the ship instead. We were sorry to miss out on the Klondike Gold Rush National Park and the seven blocks of shops and restaurants that line the colorful Victorian storefronts along Broadway. Another time perhaps.
Back on the ship, Jon and I opted for a two-top table that night. We needed quiet time to ourselves after a day spent with annoying strangers. Then we posed for a photo, watched comedian Russ Nagel perform his act in the Princess Theater, and ended the night with a stroll around the Promenade deck.
Portrait on the Grand Princess
We hope to return someday to the town incorporated as a city on June 28, 1900, and as a borough on June 5, 2007. I’d like to see how the 750 Skagway residents accommodate up to 8,000 visitors when 5 ships dock for the day.
Next up on the itinerary was a cruise up and down Tracy Arm Fjord to see icebergs and glaciers.
The weather forecast predicted a week of heat-wave temperatures for California and Arizona on April 9, 2018. Since the best places to hang out when it’s scorching hot are a forest at high altitudes or along the coast, we headed for the San Diego Resort-Sunland in La Mesa, California. Although in the 80s, it was better than panting in temperatures that approached 100 degrees.
Urban wildlife
The goal of our recent San Diego visits is to explore places we have never been before. We checked off Mt. Helix, Cabrillo National Park, and Lake Murray on this trip.
Mt. Helix
The children of Mary Carpenter Yawkey built the 12-acre Mt. Helix private, non-profit park as a tribute to their mother in 1925. Open year-round, the park attracts residents and visitors to explore the trail that circles the crown of the mountain; engage in a fitness work out by using the amphitheater steps, seats, and retaining walls; and to marvel at the 360° views. After tackling the steps five or six times, I surprised myself and managed the seats as well.
Mt. Helix AmphitheatreSmile for the photo opContemplating lifeCross at the top of Mt. HelixOne of the 360° views from Mt. HelixNot a clear day in San Diego
Cabrillo National Monument
We visited Cabrillo National Monument a few years back, but that was before I had my National Park Passport. So off to Point Loma to add another stamp in my book.
Gettin’ a bit shaggy there JT
Lucky for us low tide coincided with our arrival. We wandered around the rocky intertidal zone for about an hour, peering into the pools to watch the sea anemones and snails going about their business. Witnessing sea life under the water takes a little patience A quick glance won’t do if the aim is to watch the animals move around. Other creatures clung to the cliffs for a bit of sunbathing while waiting for the onslaught of waves at high tide.
Tide pools at Cabrillo National MonumentGooseneck barnaclesSea anemone and snails in a small poolStaghorn kelp, perhaps?Couples share a moment as the waves roll inOh, how I adore your limpet eyesPink barnacle clinging to a rockA ranger leads students and chaperones through the tide poolsPelican Air Force on duty
We stopped off at the Old Point Loma Lighthouse, cooled off while watching the movie at the visitor center, and gazed out at the views of San Diego’s skyline and watercraft in the bay.
Old Point Loma LighthouseExhibits inside depict life as a lighthouse keeper
The monument recognizes the arrival of Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo in September of 1542. Cabrillo was the first European to explore the west coast of the United States. He described the bay as “a closed and very good port,” and named it San Miguel. Another explorer, Sebastian Vizcaino, changed the name to San Diego 60 years later.
Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo monument statueBlack Phoebe flycatcher, perhaps?
Military uses of the point include a military reserve beginning in 1852, the installation of gun batteries in 1899, and a harbor defense system during World War I and II between 1918 and 1943. Visitors can see remnants of the batteries and an old radio station where an exhibit of “They Stood the Watch,” depicts the military history of Point Loma.
Battlement near the lighthouse
From the ocean to the San Diego skyline, the views are spectacular from the monument.
Ocean viewsSan Diego skylineRosecrans National Cemetery
Lake Murray Reservoir
Less than two miles from our base camp, Lake Murray Reservoir is a convenient park to visit, enjoy a lakeside walk and a bit of nature, or grab a picnic table and eat lunch. A 3.2-mile paved service road outlining the lake’s perimeter and ending at the dam is popular with walkers, joggers, and bicyclists. Fishing is also available. Or, rent a paddleboat or a kayak on a first-come-first-served basis from the concessionaire. We chose a 6-mile walk around the lake, turning around just short of the dam.
Lake Murray ReservoirHere fishy, fishy, fishPaved trail around Lake MurrayRent a paddle boat or kayakOsprey nest
It’s a Wrap
That pretty much concludes our 2018 Winter Tour. We left San Diego on April 15, 2018, took a detour through Lake Havasu to take care of some business and arrived home on April 20. This was our longest tour yet, a total of 81 days, almost 12 weeks.
As much as we love being on the road, we were both glad to make it home safe and sound. Time to dust ourselves off and catch up with family and friends. Oh yeah, Jon has a long list of RV preventative maintenance projects to complete before our next tour.
Before we packed up the rig and hit the pavement again, we needed a little vacation. A roundtrip Alaskan cruise from San Francisco seemed the ideal adventure for these two road-weary travelers.
Onward we traveled to trade in the Orange County crowds for peace and quiet in Borrego Springs on April 4, 2018, the 68th day of our 2018 Winter Tour. We arrived at Palm Canyon Hotel and RV with time to check out the Anza-Borrego Desert State Park visitor center.
We watched the introduction movie and picked up a few pamphlets and maps to plan our days.
Anza-Borrego is known for its fabulous display of spring wildflowers when winter rains provide ideal conditions for the show. The winter of 2017-18 did not bring enough rain.
Wait, stop! A lone ocotillo in bloom. We wondered if someone drove by each day and gave it a drink.
The Hikes
Borrego Palm Canyon Trail
Borrego Palm Canyon Trail is a popular hike that skirts a creek through a canyon. Doves cooed and bees buzzed, and sand-colored lizards dashed about as we walked by, and a few wayward cactus blooms poked out their heads
A white dot appeared on a ridge. Was it a bighorn sheep? I zoomed in to see and wished we were closer.
The 2004 flood uprooted a bunch of palms in the canyon and scattered them along the trail and in the creek bed.
After scrambling over creek boulders, we entered an oasis. The canyon must have been a beautiful site before the flood.
JT navigates the creek crossing
We joined a group of people in the shade and enjoyed our snack before making our way back down.
Resting in the shadeCalifornia Fan Palms
The streaky clouds hardly subdued the heat.
Fallen palms
The Slot
We woke early to hike The Slot, hoping to beat the heat. Although the sun had already risen over the horizon, the valley floor was still in shadow when we started out.
It was a good thing we woke early to hike The Slot. The tight squeeze through the canyon would have been challenging if we encountered people coming toward us.
How’d he fit through there?
Although the walls lacked the variated red of other canyons we’ve explored, the formations were still impressive.
Only a few cliffs showed off iron oxide layers.
Onward
These man-made formations enhanced the interest of the landscape.
The rocks point the way, but which ones?
Yaqui Well
Yaqui Well is located near the Tamarisk campground. Parking along the road is available, some with shade. Sunscreen and plenty of water are recommended during hot weather. This trail is a desert botanical garden featuring several varieties of cactus.
Hedgehog cactus in bloomCalifornia barrel cactusOcotillo blooms but no leaves
Backlit Teddy-Bear Cholla
We didn’t find a well, only a spring. The greenery was a clue water existed, but it was not visible.
Where’s the water?
Narrow Earth Trail
We missed the turnoff for the Narrows Earth Trail and had to turn around. Although tire tracks were plentiful at our turn around spot, they disguised the deep sand. The back tires of the truck stuck hard. Our son, Kevin, and his girlfriend, Bailey, dug out sand from in front of the rear tires, then the three of us pushed the tailgate while Jon drove out, spewing sand all over us. We learned our lesson and now carry a shovel in the toolbox.
Bighorn sheep were our reward once we found the trailhead and started walking. We watched as a bighorn scrambled through the brush and climbed the hill. Then another one came and grazed while keeping an eye on us.
“I’m keeping my eye on you.”
“I see walking people.”“What you lookin’ at?”
They watched as we slowly made our way up the trail and whispered to each other, “Look, look, over there, kids and juveniles.”
“Look, Ma, there’s people down there.”“Come on Joey, watch your step.”
Although it was a pain in the behind to get stuck, our timing was perfect to see the Bighorn sheep up close.
The Town and Surrounding Area
Christmas Circle Community Park
If something is happening in Borrego Springs, it is likely occurring at Christmas Circle Community Park. On Thursday, vendors set up shop at the farmers market. We chowed down on a couple of tamales from a woman who kept busy serving her patrons. The pico de gallo was the perfect complement for the chicken tamales.
Christmas Circle Farmers Market“Hot tamales, come get your hot tamales.”Nice selection of vegetables
Borrego Springs is completely surrounded by the Anza-Borrego Desert State Park and boasts a population of over 3,500 seasonal and year-round residents. It holds the distinction as California’s first International Dark Sky Community due to its distance of 55 miles from the highly populated California coastline.
With tourism as the primary industry, the town includes a variety of resorts and inns for all price ranges as well as restaurants. Borrego Outfitters offer clothing, footwear, outdoor gear, and gifts. Spas, fitness centers, medical services, a grocery store, and a library are other amenities available.
A chock-full calendar of events from October through May provides plenty of events for the tourists and residents.
Galleta Meadows Estate
Visitors to Borrego Springs have fun with the sky art throughout the area. Dennis Avery turned his private estate into an art museum when he commissioned Ricardo Breceda to create a series of sculptures inspired by the history and nature of the Anza-Borrego Desert.
Permission is granted!
Dirt roads weave in and around the sculptures, which began arriving in April 2008, allowing visitors to get up close for photo opportunities.
“Settle down now, Colt. I’m bigger than you are.”
The detail of the metal structures speaks to the craftsmanship that went into their creation.
Detail of the horse
From prehistoric creatures to this miner and his mule, Breceda depicts life in the desert throughout the years.
“Just one more pan full and we’ll go, Betsy.”
Not only does he depict a mule burdened with the miner’s supplies, he sets it in motion as if the jenny is spooked and pulling away from something that has frightened it.
“What am I? A beast of burden?”
Breceda pays tribute to modern times with the jeep navigating boulders in the backcountry. In Anza-Borrego State Park and surrounding area offroaders have a dilemma figuring out which of the many primitive roads they want to explore.
Whoa, Nelly!
Visitors crowd around the serpent that crosses the road, taking one photo, two photos, and more. We waited several minutes in order to take our selfies. The tail of the serpent continues on the east side of the road.
Serpent’s head on the west side of the road and tail on the east side
Serpent detail
And here are a scorpion and a grasshopper poised for battle.
“I’ll give you 5 to 1 the scorpion clobbers the grasshopper.”
I can’t wait to get back to Borrego Springs and Anza-Borrego State Park to explore all the places we weren’t able to visit. In the meantime, I’m praying for lots of rain during the 2018-19 winter. Come on, rain, bring on the wildflowers.
The Traveling Todds 