2024 Wisconsin Vacation Episode 2: Washington Island and Ferry

Washington Island and Ferry

Oh, boy. A ferry ride to Washington Island. What will we see there? We drove north from Egg Harbor through Sister Bay and Ellison Bay to Northport to catch the ferry. While I enjoy riding ferries, I’m always nervous while watching the crew direct and organize the vehicles on the platform. One confusing hand signal or command could end in a crash or injury. I’ve never witnessed a mishap, so I’m not sure why I worry.

We piled into our rental Hyundai Palisade
Cars off loading
Waiting for our turn to board

Visitors can explore the 36-square-mile island, traveling by car or bike or by hopping aboard the 1½- to 2-hour Cherry Train tour. The tour operates from May to October. Activities include water sports, hiking, and swimming at beaches. Museums, restaurants, and overnight accommodations are also available.

Stavkirke (Church of Staves)

Our first stop was the Stavkirke. Local carpenters and volunteers built the church in the style of the Stavkirke built in 1150 AD in Borgund, Norway. The Trinity Evangelical Lutheran Church of Washington Island owns, maintains, and operates the church that honors the island’s Scandinavian heritage.

The doors are open 24 hours for personal spiritual needs, and it’s also available for baptisms and weddings. The church conducts evening services on Wednesdays at 7:30 pm during July and August.

David Ranney—local author, actor, director—designed the four dragon heads from a Stavkirke book.

The work on the foundation began in October 1991, and by the summer of 1995, the church was completed and dedicated. Landscaping and the addition of the tower soon followed. Inside, 12 center staves, or masts, support the roof and walls.

Carpenters used Viking shipbuilding techniques that called for heavy-beamed, ship-like construction. These techniques included tongue-and-groove wood joints, wooden dowels, and heavy wrought iron fastenings. Twelve center staves (masts) support the ceiling and walls.

On the altar are the words “HAN ER OPPSTANDEN” Translation: He is Risen, or He is standing above us.

A model of a Mackinaw schooner named Deborah K hangs from the rafters. Sailors used this type of vessel during the 1800s for fishing and transporting goods around the islands. John Herschberger, head carpenter for the Stavkirke, created the schooner as a memorial from cedar net buoys used in the 1920s by Carl Richter, an island fisherman.

Model of the Deborah K

Carvings and adornments blend both pagan and Christian symbols.

Jackson Harbor Soup and Sandwiches

Line up to order, find a spot to perch, and wait for the delicious food to come to you. This soup and sandwich shop has been in business since Memorial Day weekend 2016 after completion of a restoration project that began in 2011. The project included the restoration of a storage shed and its move to the current location.

Dredging for the State Dock in 2013 supplied soil that allowed for landscaping. The proprietors have strong family ties to the area. The Hanson and Gibson families trace their family trees back to great-grandparents and grandparents who once owned and/or lived and worked on island property.

Golden Lab photo bombs Laura

Jackson Harbor is the place to catch the ferry to Rock Island State Park. Bikes and motorized vehicles must remain at Jackson Harbor. Visitors may bring a cart or wagon. On the island, visitors will find a rustic Icelandic boathouse, an old-growth forest, a lighthouse in the woods, and trails. Primitive camping is available.

The Karfi ferry takes people across to Rock Island

Here are a few views from the Jackson Harbor:

Next door to the restaurant are the Jackson Harbor Maritime Museum and The Ridges Nature Preserve. The museum occupies two sheds, and other outbuildings are remnants of a fishing village.

1930 Model A Snowmobile with a “Sno-Bird” conversion kit
Model ships and ferries and outboard motors
Riding on an ice sled
The Alex C needs a bit of restoration

School House Beach

This unique beach features limestone pebbles instead of sand. The pebbles, shaped over years of wave action, are the perfect size and shape for skipping across the water surface. The area is part of the Niagara Escarpment, a geological formation that runs from New York through Wisconsin, and into Canada. Refrain from putting any of the stones in your pockets to take home.

Swimming, sunbathing, and skipping rocks at School House Beach

Removing the stones may cost up to $250 in fines. Crystal-clear water, aquatic life, and snorkeling also draw visitors to the beach. Cedar trees, picnic grills, tables, benches, and restrooms are other amenities available to make the most of a day at the beach.

Chris, Maya, Laura, and Jackson pose on the pebble beach

Fragrant Isle Lavender Farm & Shop

The lavender farm was a treat for the senses. Founder Martine Anderson and her husband have created a destination for visitors to explore on their own. Or, they may choose to join a curated 30-minute tour of the fields and oil distillery. Check the website for dates and costs.

The Shop at Fragrant Isle Lavender Farm

The farm has planted 20,000 plants representing 14 varieties of lavender and does not use any chemicals. Harvest is performed by hand and machine with care to protect the plants and the product.

Lavender-loving guests will enjoy “All Things Lavender” in Fragrant Isle’s Shop, where they will find 300 products to purchase. Products include personal care, fragrant candles, and essential oils.

Besides sandwiches and salads, Le Café has croissants, chocolates, cookies, and macaroons. Visitors can also purchase lavender lemonade, wine, and other lavender alcoholic drinks. Laura and Maya liked the lavender ice cream they bought.

Washington Island is a place I wouldn’t mind coming back to explore more of what the island offers, and maybe even take the ferry over to Rock Island for the day.

Next Up: Peninsula State Park, Eagle Bluff Lighthouse, Fish Creek Scenic Boat Tour

Safe Travels

2024 Wisconsin Vacation Episode 1

On this trip, we left the RV at home. As we boarded the plane to fly to Milwaukee Airport on August 8, 2024, we cried, “Wisconsin, here we come!” We were meeting our daughter, Laura, and her family in Egg Harbor, Wisconsin.

Our plan had been to grab something to eat when we changed planes in Las Vegas. That didn’t happen because a delayed landing in Las Vegas caused us to rush through the terminal to catch our connecting flight. When we arrived in Milwaukee, everything had closed at the terminal and around Hyatt Place, where we stayed for the night.

Coming in late to Milwaukee

We were thankful for the hearty breakfast we ate before we left Oakland, California. Our next meal wasn’t until the next morning, not counting the flight snacks or the hotel’s chocolate chip cookies. My body craved something more substantial than sugar. Next time I fly across the country, I’m packing a peanut butter sandwich and an apple. Like a Girl Scout, we’ll be prepared.

After a few hours of sleep, we picked up our rented Hyundai Palisade, found a place for breakfast, and drove three hours to Egg Harbor in Door County, Wisconsin.

The Landing Resort

We found our king studio at The Landing Resort in the Village of Egg Harbor, a quiet, comfortable place to stay. The kitchenette allowed us to purchase food and drinks to have on hand for breakfast, lunch, and snacks, so we didn’t have to eat every meal in a restaurant.

Entrance to The Landing Resort Lobby

For relaxation, I enjoyed a chair in the lobby for reading and writing.

Cozy lobby for reading and writing

A wooded trail around the buildings and a quick walk to the harbor, restaurants, and stores made it convenient to get around without the car. Other amenities included an indoor and an outdoor pool, video arcade games, gas grills with a picnic area, and other items guests will appreciate.

Grassy area with picnic tables
Trail through the woods
Logs among the vines

Village of Egg Harbor and Town of Egg Harbor

The Town of Egg Harbor, established in 1861, broke apart in the early 1960s. The downtown businesses wanted to focus on inviting tourism to the area, while the rest of the town wanted to retain its rural roots.

Harbor View Park
Sit awhile and watch the world go by.

In 1964, the Village of Egg Harbor hatched, and since then has become a popular resort community within the boundaries of the Town of Egg Harbor. The greater Door County area attracts visitors from throughout the United States and from other countries.

The harbor
Luscious garden

One might ask, “How did Egg Harbor get its name?” Apparently, three stories exist. The first one credits Mr. Increase Claflin, an early pioneer, for the name when he found a nest full of duck eggs. Others say the name came from when residents collected eggs from seagull nests along the shore.

This memorial commemorates the crew of the steamer Erie L. Hackley in 1903
Grandiflora
Testing the water

A more exciting story appeared in the Door County Advocate on April 26, 1862. In this story, as documented in the journal by Mrs. Elizabeth Baird, the name came from The Great Egg Battle. Sailors in a six-boat trading flotilla carrying furs from Mackinac Island stopped in the harbor to rest for the night.

The Seafarer by Jeff Olsen 2012

As they rowed to shore, the sailors began throwing hardtack at each other. When they depleted their supply, they engaged in a friendly battle with eggs as their ammunition. Mrs. Baird reported that eggs even pelted her on the head. Apparently, the sailors camped along the shore strewn with eggshells. I think I like the Egg Battle the best.

Across the harbor

The image of sailors hurling ammo, eggshells cracking, and yolks oozing is more entertaining than someone stealing eggs from a gull’s nest.

Alpine Resort and Cottages
Egg Harbor Beach
Jetty, walkway, and fishing pier.
Private docks
Whirlygigs in the park
One proud rooster
Cupola House

Placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1979, the Cupola House houses a collective of retail spaces. Inside, visitors will find a cosmetics store; the Cupola Cafe; a selection of wine, beer, and spirits; a children’s store; and a photography studio. In one room, a gallery displays work created by local artists.

Shopping and bites to eat and drink at the Cupola House

Julie’s Park Café & Motel

On Saturday, August 10, 2024, we loaded everyone into the Palisade for the drive to Fish Creek for breakfast. After a wait of 20 minutes, we slid into our seats. Unfortunately, the day must have been a rotten one for our server.

Julie’s Park Cafe & Motel

It’s been a long time since I’ve encountered such an unfriendly server. I hoped she wasn’t indicative of the type of treatment we could expect from other people in town. Otherwise, we had a fine breakfast, and she finally smiled after we paid and were leaving. Maybe we should have paid in advance.

Sister Bay Historical Society Corner of the Past Museum

Sister Bay Historical Society Corner of the Past Open Aire Market

Before heading back to Egg Harbor, we stopped at Sister Bay Historical Society Corner of the Past Museum to check out their Open Aire Market. Farmers, vendors, artists, and crafters displayed their wares under canopies.

Reminds me of a pickup my grandfather had, minus the Green Bay Packer colors.
Historic buildings add to the early American ambience

Outside and inside the historic Koessl Barn, we spotted various farming implements and equipment used in years past. The welcoming vendors and docents at the museum dispelled any apprehension about unfriendly people.

Inside the barn
Historic farming implements and equipment

We enjoyed talking to everyone at the market and learning about the history of the area.

Blacksmith shed

Our next stop was the Piggly Wiggly, and my first visit. I used to think the name of this grocery store was a joke. I’ve since learned the grocer began in 1916 as a self-service grocery in Memphis, Tennessee, and later began franchising the concept. Today, over 500 stores operate as independent grocery retailers under the Piggly Wiggly name.

That evening we went to the Third Avenue Playworks in Sturgeon Bay to watch their production of Jeeves Saves the Day, by Margaret Raether. The play was based on the characters of PG Wodehouse. The large comfortable seats allowed for maximum enjoyment of the play without being squished between the people on either side. The actors’ character portrayals and the set design made it clear this theater strove for professionalism. If we ever return to the area, we will come to the theater again.

Up Next: Washington Island Ferry, Stavkirke (Stave church), and other sites.

Safe Travels

2024 Pacific Northwest Adventure Episode 12: Eureka, California, Sequoia Park Zoo and Redwood Sky Walk

Sequoia Park Zoo and Redwood Sky Walk

Located on land of the Wiyot people, a federally recognized tribe in California, the Sequoia Park Zoo was established in 1907. The oldest California zoo is also the smallest accredited zoo in the country. Many zoos we visit spread out over acres of vast open spaces. Not so Sequoia. It sits along the edge of the City of Eureka’s 67-acre Sequoia Park, which is home to old-growth redwood trees. Finding shade was not a problem among the giants.

Sequoia Park Zoo entrance

The park is open daily from 10:00 am to 6:00 pm (or 10 am to 5 pm Tuesday – Sunday during winter) and attracts folks of all ages and abilities. Be sure to check their website in case of adverse conditions that may require them to close.

Flamingos are a popular draw at many zoos.

Their mission is to “inspire conservation of the natural world by instilling wonder, respect, and passion for wildlife.”

A redwood survives

The zoo offers student field trips; age-appropriate zoo camps from ages five to fifteen; and conservation-related programs, projects, and initiatives.

Curious kids learn all about owls.
Circle time led by one of the Keeper Aides.
Kids can experience life in an eagle’s nest.

The zoo cares for over 150 animals, representing over 50 species. Among these are animals that cannot return to their natural habitat because of injuries they’ve sustained or from too much human contact. The zoo’s website includes stories of survival for some of these animals that I found interesting to read about.

A broken wing prevents this eagle from enjoying freedom in the wild.

The California Department of Fish and Wildlife (CDFW) places abandoned or injured animals assessed as unfit for release in the wild in zoos. Sequoia Park Zoo is one zoo that cares for such animals. On their website are stories about Tule, Ishǔng, and Nabu, the bears that cannot return to the wild, as well as others, like the eagle above.

Black bear, not likely to regain his fur, calls the zoo its home

Other Animals Seen at the Zoo

The Barnyard

Besides the animals, two other exhibits are a draw for visitors. Guests can connect hands-on with domestic animals such as miniature horses, guinea pigs, chickens, and donkeys at the Barnyard. Learning about the animals, practicing farm skills, and brushing goats and sheep are activities to enjoy. There’s also a dedicated butterfly research lab at the Barnyard.

Ahh! That feels good.

Redwood Sky Walk

The other big draw is the Redwood Sky Walk, opened in 2021. We loved our leisurely walk up the ramp along with the views of the zoo below from a height of 100 feet. One resource listed the Sky Walk as the longest in the Western United States. I wonder whether that claim still stands.

The sturdy wood structure with non-slip walkable treads felt safe and secure, especially with thick posts and 3.5- to 4-foot guardrails on each side of the ramp. It took me a few seconds to get used to the “adventure leg” though because it swayed and bounced when other people navigated across in front or behind me.

Backlot paths among the ferns
It’s amazing how these trees can survive.
Whimsical rest area

We found the zoo’s compact size easy to navigate and a respite among the giant sequoias and would definitely visit there again.

Once we left Eureka, we made one more overnight stop at the Cloverdale/Healdsburg KOA in Alexander Valley, California. The RV park was about six miles south of Cloverdale in an oak-covered, hilly canyon. One of its inviting features was the fishing lake. Families came out in the late afternoon with fishing rods and reels to try their luck catching fish for the night’s dinner.

Here, fishy, fish, fish
A place to reflect.

We ended our adventure after thirty-six days when we pulled in front of our house on July 26, 2024. To say we enjoyed every bit of the trip is an understatement. While unpacking and washing piles of laundry, I reminisced about where we had been and what we had seen, and was grateful we had returned home safe and sound.

Next Up: We leave the RV at home while we fly and drive to Egg Harbor in Door County, Wisconsin.

Safe Travels

2024 Pacific Northwest Adventure Episode 11: Sleeping with Elk and the Sights in Eureka, California

We left Florence, Oregon, on July 22, 2024. While driving through Oregon, we noticed quite a few glassblowing studios. Perhaps influenced by Dale Chihuly’s artwork? The Gilded & Ethereal Blue Chandelier is located at Global Aviation in Hillsboro Airport, Hillsboro, Oregon. Other creations have been or are displayed at Willamette University, the Portland Art Museum, and in various galleries.

Pacific Ocean views from US 101

For the first time this trip, we had no reservations. I noted two casinos and a KOA where we might find accommodations for a night or maybe two. The first casino we pulled into was too sketchy for our taste. The first thumbs down was its location in the middle of a residential area. The second was the junky motorhome a few spaces down the row that was running its outdoor open-frame generator. We certainly didn’t want to listen to it all afternoon and night.

Wished we had time to walk on the beach

We next drove through the KOA, but of course they had no space. Our third try was the charm at Elk Valley Casino, owned and operated by the Elk Valley Rancheria. It sat up on a hill overlooking the valley, where a herd of elk grazed. The casino had plenty of parking designated for RVs, a restaurant, and other amenities inside. All we had to do was sign in with security and dine on a pair of awesome hamburgers at the Warriors Bar & Grill.

Elk Valley Casino has RV Parking
Plenty of vegetation and water nearby for the elk
Sentry watching for danger?
Trail to the Elk Valley Fuel Mart

Redwood Coast Cabins and RV Park in Eureka, California, was our next destination, where we planned to stay for four nights. We arrived early enough to get our laundry cleaned. When I saw the one washer with a coat of dark sandy dirt all over it, I walked out and hoped we’d find a decent laundromat somewhere in town. I sure didn’t want my clothes coming out dirtier than when they went in. Fortunately, we found a laundromat in Arcata. I gladly paid the extra cost for clean machines and an attendant on duty.

City of Eureka Street Scenes

I never tire of the Victorian styled buildings in these historic towns, so they often end up in these posts. No need to peruse them if they’re not your jam. If they are, you’re welcome.

Historic Mansions

One of the most iconic buildings in Eureka is the Carson Mansion, completed in 1885 by William Carson, who made his fortune in lumber. Its tower is visible in many places throughout town. In the late 1940s, after the last of his heirs abandoned the property and could not find a buyer, the mansion faced destruction.

Isn’t she a beauty?

Local business owners J.H. Crothers and Carl Gustafson, along with other residents, formed the Ingomar Club. The group took over the property and began maintenance and improvements. In 1988, the club initiated an extensive renovation that included replacing replicas of 1889 architectural details where needed.

A closer look at the ornate detail
And even closer detailed view

The Queen Anne style Pinc Lady Mansion (formerly known as the Pink Lady) was built in 1889. New owners still offer the B&B experience and can accommodate wedding and special event rentals. William Carson built this home as a wedding gift for his son and his wife.

Pinc Lady Mansion

At the end of M Street, across Second Street from the Pinc Lady Mansion, stands a newer styled building. Its style is reminiscent of architecture used in the 1940s or 1950s with its sleek, clean lines and lack of ornamentation. This building houses the Mathews, Kluck, Walsh, & Wykle law firm.

Mathews, Kluck, Walsh & Wykle

Other Buildings and Sites Around Town

A search revealed two independent bookstores in Eureka: Eureka Books Historic Bookstore (selling new, used, and antiquarian books) and Booklegger (selling used books).

Eureka Books Historic Bookstore

In addition, on the second floor of the city’s library is Serendipity Bookstore. Operated by Friends of the Redwood Libraries, the bookstore sells used books, magazines, and videos. That’s a lot of options for a city with a population of 25,000.

Try Booklegger for used books
Humming Bird Public Art
Cafe Waterfront Oyster Bar & Grill
Singin’ at the water feature
My allergy to wool limited my time in the Irish Shop.
The Historic Eagle House Inn and Phatsy Kline’s
Restaurant and Bar
Chapala Restaurant
A sample of the many murals around town.
Dedicated to seafaring men of Humboldt past, present, and future, this dolos weighs 42 tons. Structures made of these concrete blocks are used to dissipate waves. They usually weigh around 8 tons.
Cal Poly Humboldt research vessel
Coast Guard vessel
The Fisherman
A bit of whimsy
Dick Taylor Craft Chocolate Factory and Store had yummy-tasting chocolate bars.
No tours on the day we visited.

The Zombie Trains

I took photos of these locomotives in the spring of 2014. In December of that year, the City of Eureka declared them a public nuisance. Legal actions, changes in responsibility, and the decline in scrap metal prices prevented their removal until September 2024.

Photo taken on May 9, 2014

The owner tried to appease the city by painting them gray in 2015. As the photo below shows, the paint didn’t last. Although not everyone will agree, I prefer the look of the graffiti to the blotches of rust and paint.

Photo taken on July 24, 2024

A September 11, 2024, article by the Lost Coast Outpost reported on the status of the Zombie Trains removal piece by piece on site, using heavy machinery. Thus ending the debate between paint, rust, and graffiti. I’m sure the City of Eureka cheered at the removal of the locomotives. Our next trip through Eureka won’t be quite the same without seeing the rusty, graffiti-sprayed hunks of metal. I’ll be watching to see what will take their place.

Next up: More in Eureka, California, including the Sequoia Park Zoo and Redwood Sky Walk

Safe Travels