Our last post was on December 5, 2023, which featured our visit to the Dwight D. Eisenhower Presidential Library and Museum during our Spring Adventure. Jon’s hernia surgery, my broken arm, and various medical appointments limited my time at the keyboard for several weeks. I’ve been playing catchup ever since. A word of caution: Jetways may be slippery when wet, so hang onto the handrails.
Now, on to this week’s post. A short one as we get back into the groove.
We headed from Salina, Kansas, on May 1, 2023, and traveled to the Goodland, Kansas, KOA. We arrived early enough to poke around close by. Goodland’s claim to fame is the “Big Easel,” a reproduction of van Gogh’s painting “Three Sunflowers in a Vase” by Cameron Cross. At 80 feet tall, it is known as the World’s Largest Easel, according to the World Record Academy.
The Big Easel
Down the road is the High Plains Museum, operated by the City of Goodland. Artifacts include items donated, such as a replica of the first patented helicopter, the Goodland’s Flying Machine co-invented by William J. Purvis and Charles E. Wilson.
Replica of first helicopter to receive a patent
The displays also included a 1902 Holsman Auto owned and driven by Dr. A. C. Gulick, a Sherman County Physician. The car is missing a few safety features compared to our modern vehicles.
1902 Holsman Auto
Dioramas reflect the town as it might have appeared during its founding, along with various machinery, equipment, and household goods.
One of many dioramas
Next door to the KOA sits a historic farmhouse under renovation. I wondered who once lived there and who might live there again some day. According to the owner, they bought the house 37 miles away and moved it to its new location. She was out watering the trees, which were not doing well because of the drought in the area.
Historic home under renovation
If we pass through this area again, we might stay more than one night and take in other roadside and historical sites. I hear the Giant Grasshopper made from tractor parts is a must see quirky tourist sight.
As we approached the Dwight David Eisenhower Presidential Library and Museum on April 29, 2023, I tried to remember what I had learned about this man. Only three tidbits popped up: 1) he was a military general, 2) had something to do with the country’s interstate system, 3) and his nickname was Ike.
Eisenhower had been my president for the first eight years of my life as I obliviously watched Romper Room, donned my cowgirl outfit—complete with pistol, holster, and boots—and later played with my Barbie. I also attended Eisenhower Junior-Senior High School in my hometown. Go Eagles! Shouldn’t I have learned more about the man, at some point? Maybe I did and don’t remember, or maybe I didn’t because my dislike of World War II history never held my interest.
Eisenhower as a young boy
Here are the highlights of what I learned about the president that polls rank in the top 10 of all presidents. As with all the presidential museums we’ve visited, we walked through Ike’s life, starting with his boyhood.
Dwight David Eisenhower (nicknamed Ike) was born on October 14, 1890, in Denison, Texas. His family moved to Abilene, Kansas, in 1892, where Dwight lived with his parents and five brothers.
Ike entered West Point on June 14, 1911, and graduated on June 12, 1915, as a Second Lieutenant. Although he didn’t make the baseball team, he played varsity football as a halfback until a knee injury ended his sports career.
Ike, the West Point graduate
In October 1915 while stationed at Fort Sam Houston, Texas, Eisenhower met Mamie Geneva Doud while visiting friends in San Antonio. Was it fate she and her Denver, Colorado, family had rented a house in San Antonio for the winter? Dwight’s and Mamie’s romance was a whirlwind, announcing their engagement on February 14, 1916, and married by July 1, 1916. They had two boys, the first of which died of scarlet fever within four months. The military family moved extensively from post to post until World War II broke out and Mamie settled in at the Wardman Park Hotel in Washington, DC.
Fun Fact: Dwight David Eisenhower II, Ike’s and Mammie’s grandson, is married to Julie Nixon, Richard and Pat Nixon’s daughter. Richard Nixon was Eisenhower’s vice president.
Dresses worn by Mamie during Eisenhower’s presidency
Between 1915 and 1922, Eisenhower served in the Infantry and Tank Corps, earning promotions along the way. In 1919, he volunteered to participate as a Tank Corps observer in the First Transcontinental Motor Convoy. The lack of roads that could accommodate the heavy equipment the Army moved across the country made the task difficult.
During the 1920s and 1930s, Eisenhower racked up promotion after promotion while serving in various posts under the command of several generals. Then, on December 7, 1941, the attack on Pearl Harbor dragged the US into World War II.
The War Years
In May 1942, Eisenhower was designated Commanding General, European Theater, London England. By November 1942, he was named Commander-in-Chief, Allied Forces, North Africa. In December 1943, he was appointed Supreme Commander, Allied Expeditionary Forces and commanded forces of the Normandy Invasion on June 6, 1944.
On December 20, 1944, promoted to General of the Army with 5 stars and after the German surrender on May 8, 1945, he was appointed Military Governor, US Occupied Zone, Frankfurt, Germany.
He held the position of Supreme Allied Commander of NATO in Europe and had operational command of US forces in Europe from December 1950 to July 1952.
In Abilene, Kansas, on June 4, 1952, Eisenhower announced his candidacy for the Republican party nomination for president. He won the nomination and the presidency against Adlai Stevenson II and beat Stevenson again for a second term.
Campaign memorabilia
During Eisenhower’s presidency, the economy boomed. I suspect the pent up demand after the bans, restrictions, and rationing during the war had as much of a hand in the bounce back as the president in office did.
From 1950 to 1960, the number of cars on the road increased by nearly 22 million and home ownership increased from 55% to 62%
Eisenhower occasionally drove the car below. It belonged to Mamie’s mother, Elivera Doud. It cost $4,300 when new and the driver could use either the front or rear seat controls.
1914 Rauch & Lang electric car
The National Interstate and Defence Highways Act (1956) was one of Eisenhower’s notable achievements as president. This display claims, “No public works project comes close to equaling its impact on the country’s economy, security, people, and culture.”
Map of projected Interstates by 1971
Eisenhower’s foreign policy focused on reducing military aid and preventing the spread of communism. These policies ended the fighting in Korea with the Korean Armistice Agreement signed in July 1953. They also increased the country’s nuclear weapons and delivery systems and prevented other countries from acquiring or using them against the US.
Eisenhower relied on secret CIA missions to fight communism in Southern Asia, South America, and the Caribbean instead of using the military. Some critics argue these actions have left the US with unresolved foreign policy issues that continue to cause havoc to this day.
Desegregation was another contentious issue his administration dealt with. Eisenhower continued President Truman’s orders to desegregate the federal workforce and armed forces. The Supreme Court decision in Brown vs the Board of Education, came down in 1954, which led to the Civil Rights bill.
The bill established a bipartisan congressional commission to investigate civil rights violations, created a civil rights division in the Department of Justice, and gave the Attorney General authority to pursue contempt proceedings against violators of civil and voting rights.
After exploring the museum, we took a break outside and discovered a statue of Eisenhower in the “Champion of Peace” circle. In the background are memorial pylons. Phrases on the pylons commemorate Eisenhower’s life from birth through presidency.
Across from the museum is the library building. During our visit, we found the Women’s Suffrage Centennial exhibit upstairs. It celebrated the women who campaigned for Eisenhower and those who served in his administration. His was the first presidential campaign to focus on the vote of women.
Library entrance
Eisenhower and troops in the library
Below is the chapel, or mausoleum, where Dwight and Mamie are buried.
Inside are quotes from Eisenhower’s speeches. The one on the back wall is from his Guildhall Address, London, June 12, 1945. It says, “Humility must always be the portion of any man who receives acclaim earned in blood of his followers and sacrifices of his friends.”
Also outside is Eisenhower’s boyhood home, which we toured with a guide. Under the National Archives website, is a video tour of the house and historical detail for those who are interested.
Eisenhower painting of his boyhood home
A few photos of the surrounding area in Abilene, Kansas.
Is that Ben Franklin reading the paper?
Well, I finally learned about my first president and I’m not sure what to think. He impacted the country in positive ways when you consider he ended the Korean War, authorized the construction of the Interstates and signed the Civil Rights act, among other good deeds. Yet the use of the CIA for covert operations has left lasting damage to relationships with other countries.
Analyzing all of his actions to determine if Eisenhower deserves a top ten rating would require more research than I wanted to do. So I read the Farewell Speech he gave before leaving the White House. He made several points I found interesting and relatable to current affairs around the world and in today’s political climate:
1) He talked about how the President and Congress need to work together to find the best solutions to shape the nation’s future.
2) He said, “America’s leadership and prestige” does not rely only on our “unmatched material progress, richs and military strength, but on how we use our power in the interests of world peace and human betterment.”
3) He spoke at length about the buildup of the country’s military-industrial complex during the previous years and the importance to “guard against the acquisition of unwarranted influence, whether sought or unsought, by the military-industrial complex.” And he recognized that “the potential for the disastrous rise of misplaced power exists, and will persist.”
4) On conservation, he said we must, “Avoid the impulse to live for today, plundering … the precious resources of tomorrow. We cannot mortgage the material assets of our grandchildren without risking the loss also of their political and spiritual heritage. We want democracy to survive for all generations to come, not to become the insolvent phantom of tomorrow.”
And his parting prayer at the end of his speech asked for a utopia for the world I fear will never exist. However, that doesn’t mean we should stop striving for the dream.
“We pray that peoples of all faiths, all races, all nations, may have their great human needs satisfied; that those now denied opportunity shall come to enjoy it to the full; that all who yearn for freedom may experience its spiritual blessings; that those who have freedom will understand, also, its heavy responsibilities; that all who are insensitive to the needs of others will learn charity; that the scourges of poverty, disease and ignorance will be made to diappear from the earth, and that, in the goodness of time, all peoples will come to live together in a peace guaranteed by the binding force of mutual respect and love.”
Reading the speech brought me closer to agreeing with Eisenhower’s ranking in the top ten of all presidents. I like how he laid out the threats to the country that existed then and gave warnings or advice about the future. And I’m sad more people didn’t pay attention.
Up Next: We stop in Goodland, Kansas, for a few days
After our visit to Springfield, Illinois, we headed back to Missouri to spend time at Lake of the Ozarks and meet up with our daughter Laura and her family. On the way, we stopped in Warrenton, Missouri, for a bite to eat. Social House 227 looked promising with parking for the rig nearby.
Social House 227’s décor caught my attention as I walked through the door. The framed boxes and crates with plants added a hint of comfort and coziness.
And then I saw a contraption hanging on the wall. What the heck? Ahh. A modern-day jukebox.That’s the source of the background music. It reminded me of cafes back in the day when jukeboxes sat against a wall or little ones sat at each table. We would select the song we wanted to hear, put coins in the slot, and wait for our song to play. Modern times call for modern ways to select music and pay. TouchTunes has an app for that to go along with their jukeboxes.
“Smash” burgers seem to be the foodie fad of the moment, so I tried one at Social House 227. The word “smash” refers to the patties being smashed by hand. Although, I submit it also means having to smash the two 4-oz patties topped with lettuce, tomatoes, pickles, peppers, bacon, cheese, onion rings, and a fried egg in order to stuff the thing in my mouth. I’m glad I tried it, although I’m not sure I’ll order another one anytime soon. It was the kind of messy where I had to hang on to the thing with both hands until the last bite as the juices and sauce dripped off my chin.
Here are few places we visited while in the Ozarks:
Bagnell Dam Strip
Bagnell Dam Strip seems the place to be for food and shopping in Lake Ozark, Missouri. There we saw Marty Byrde’s Gastropub. I wondered which Marty Byrde came first, the gastropub or the Netflix TV series Ozark? It turns out Jason Bateman’s character on Ozark was the inspiration for the name of the restaurant. I understand a few drinks are named after other characters in the series.
Marty Byrde’s Gastropub
There are several other restaurants on the strip, some with nighttime entertainment, waiting to cater to every hungry mob’s desire. Shoppers will also find stores where they can scratch their itch to find the perfect gift for someone special.
Willmore Lodge
The Willmore Lodge contains the visitor center for the Bagnall Dam. The Adirondack-styled 6,500 square foot building contained twenty-nine rooms when completed in 1930 for Union Electric.
Willmore Lodge
I thought it fascinating to learn the entire building was cut and assembled in Oregon. Then it was marked, disassembled, and transported by train to Missouri. It took three months to reassemble the structure using square wooden pegs and “overlapping corner-saddle notching” to hold it together. I’m not a woodworker and have no idea what notching is, but “overlapping corner-saddle notching” sounds extra sturdy to me.
Jon waits patiently to go inside
Union Electric sold the property at some point, setting off an exchange of owners over the years. In 1996, Union Electric repurchased it with the purpose of retaining it as a National Historical site and housing the history of the region.
Inside, the massive fireplace and open beam ceiling should have given off a cavernous vibe. Instead, the warmth of the wood, the comfy-looking furniture, and the natural light made me want to curl up on one of the chairs, pull out a book, and settle in for a cozy reading session.
The lobby was the perfect spot to visit with our daughter and her family when they came to visit us.
Check out the carving on this chair
Reception area
Jon checks out the view from the window
A hallway on the fireplace side of the lobby leads to a museum. The museum contains artifacts, photos, and descriptions of the area before the dam was built, how the dam works, and the local wildlife visitors might see in the area.
A few Bagnell Dam facts:
Named after William Bagnell, a railroad man who founded a town on June 30, 1883
The dam was completed in 1931
To make way for the dam, houses and farm buildings in 22 communities were moved or destroyed.
The dam is one-half mile long and 148 feet high from bedrock (equivalent to a 12-story building seven blocks long)
It holds back 600 billion gallons of water in the Lake of the Ozarks (the largest man-made lake in the world covering 86 square miles)
The current owners, Ameren Missouri, upgraded the dam in 2017 and 2018 at a cost of $53 million.
Osage Energy Center produces more than 500 million kilowatt hours (equivalent to the needs of 42,000 average households)
Ameren Missouri’s goal is to achieve net-zero carbon emissions by 2050.
Outside, is a walkway around the building with views of the shoreline across the lake.
And a path leads to a garden, a huge fireplace with a grill, a gazebo, dogwood trees, and expansive views of Lake of the Ozarks.
Condo buildings next door to Willmore Lodge
Ha Ha Tonka State Park
In need of stretching our legs, we found Ha Ha Tonka State Park. With 31 miles of trails, we were confident of finding something interesting. The park displays the karst geological formations for which Missouri is known. The dissolving action of water on bedrock is what created the caves (approximately 7,500 are known), sinkholes, springs, and natural bridges throughout the state.
Natural bridge
From under the bridge
Lakeshore park
The something interesting we found was the ruins of a European-style castle. The castle was the vision of Robert M. Snyder, a wealthy Kansas City businessman. Construction began in 1905, but one year later, Mr. Snyder died in one of the state’s first automobile accidents.
Jon, Laura, Chris, and Maya check out the ruins
Hey, Papa. Wait up.
The structure is unstable so stay behind the fence
It wasn’t until 1922 that the structure was completed under the direction of Snyder’s sons. The Bagnell Dam divided the property in the 1930s, much to the dismay of the Snyders. Eventually, the property was used as a hotel. In 1942, a fire broke out, gutting the castle, and destroying the carriage house.
Then in 1976, vandals burned the water tower. In 1978, the property was included in the newly created Ha Ha Tonka State Park.
Don’t step on the prairie ring-necked snake
Lake of the Ozarks sprawls out into arms and fingers looking a lot like a tentacled serpent
From the castle ruins we saw heavy equipment at the water level and gravel haulers driving in and out along the sandbar. Apparently for years, gravel had washed from Dry Hollow Road into the underground karst system and deposited into the Ha Ha Tonka Spring. This created gravel bars in Trout Glen Pool. Besides dredging the pool and spring to remove 10,000 cubic yards of gravel, a paving project along Dry Hollow Road will prevent further problems.
Ha Ha Tonka Spring dredging project
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This brightly colored restaurant stood out among the green and blah
Although there was plenty more for us to do and see while at Lake of the Ozarks, we took advantage of down time before hitting the road toward home. Neither of us were looking forward to a week of back-to-back driving days, so I built in a few extra days along the way.
Next Up: Dwight D. Eisenhower Presidential Museum and Home in Abilene, Kansas
On April 21, 2023, we drove to Springfield, Illinois, to tick off another presidential museum: Abraham Lincoln’s.
Abraham Lincoln Museum
What can be said about Honest Abe that has not already been said, portrayed, or written? School history lessons, books, stage productions, television programs, and movies have all dealt with the man whose presidency consistently rates in the top three of all presidents.
When I saw Abe and his family standing in the center of the plaza posing with visitors, I knew this museum didn’t follow the standard National Archives and Records Administration (NARRA) specifications for presidential libraries. In fact, the museum is operated by an agency of the State of Illinois and the Lincoln Library also contains the Illinois State historical collections.
The Lincoln family welcomes visitors in the plaza
The museum opened on April 19, 2005, generating around $1 million in its first six months with a steady increase in visitation each year. The museum also sparked debate over the design of the exhibits and how history is presented, which did not follow the standard used by most museums at the time.
The multi-media exhibits with a Disneyesque feel are what may have caused both the criticism and the museum’s popularity, especially after Steven Spielberg’s movie Lincoln premiered on October 8, 2012, at the New York Film Festival.
The set decorations and expressions on the mannequins dressed in 1800s attire, the hologram theater presentation, and the depiction of the assassination were like entering Abe Land at a Disney Amusement Park.
We started our tour at Journey 1 where we found exhibits and dioramas of Abe’s boyhood in a Kentucky cabin and ended with his campaign for president in 1860.
Abe in the background next to a cabin
Abe the thinker and reader
Cozy cabin
Abe and Mary at home
Imagine these two rambunctious kids in the room while working in the office
Journey 2 covers his presidency, the Civil War period, his and the country’s struggle with slavery, personal loss, and his assassination on April 14, 1865.
Frederick Douglass visited Lincoln’s White House in 1863 and Sojourner Truth visited in 1864
Union officers confer
Family separated at auction
Cabinet debate over Emancipation Proclamation
Other exhibits included the Treasures Gallery where artifacts from President Lincoln, his family, and the Civil War were displayed.
At the Union Theater, we watched Lincoln’s Eyes, a look at Lincoln’s life and legacy.
Lincoln’s Eyes played in the Union Theater
One fateful night at the theater
One angry actor gone wrong
In the Holavision ® Theater, we watched a hologram presentation about research libraries and their importance to society.
Various temporary exhibits are also included throughout the year.
Lincoln Home National Historic Site
Within walking distance of the museum is the National Historic Site of Lincoln’s home and neighborhood, operated by the National Park Service. Take a tour in person, or click the link on the NPS website for a virtual tour of the home. Here are a few photos I took.
Side and front of Lincoln home
Rear of Lincoln home
Parlor 1
Parlor 2
Mary’s bedroom
Maid’s quarters
Kitchen
Then walk the neighborhood as Abe or Mary might have and learn about some of the neighbors who lived there. Some of the homes are open with exhibits inside.
A few lots down the street from the Lincoln home is an empty lot, which is part of the National Park Service National Underground Railroad Network to Freedom. It was where Jameson Jenkins, a free person of color, lived. It is documented that Mr. Jenkins successfully transported escaped slaves north to Bloomington, Illinois, on January 16, 1850.
Political poster
Note the step for accessing a horse drawn carriage in front of the Robinson house
Old Illinois State Capitol Building
Across the street from the Lincoln Museum is the Old State Capitol Historic Site. The Greek Revival style building was constructed during 1837 and 1840 and served as the state house from 1840 to 1876. Unfortunately, the historic site was, and still is, undergoing a $15 million renovation project.
Old Illinois State Capitol Building
Current Illinois State Capitol Building
We only had time to take photos outside of the current state capitol building during our visit. Guided tours are available to visit the building which was constructed over twenty years beginning 1868 at a total cost of $4.5 million.
Current State Capitol Building
Quiet street scene on this cold and rainy day
Lincoln Tomb at Oak Ridge Cemetery in Springfield
Mount Rushmore’s sculptor, Gutzon Borglum, sculpted the larger-than-life bust of Lincoln on the plaza outside of the tomb. In his hand is a copy of the Emancipation Proclamation allowing African-American soldiers in the Union Army.
The obelisk, an Ancient Egyptian symbol for leadership, is a fitting tribute to a man who is honored and respected by so many people.
The bronze statues on each of the four corners honor soldiers during the Civil War Infantry, Artillery, Cavalry, and Navy. A chain of unbroken links lists the initials of each state in the union.
Notice how shiny the nose is on the bust below. Some people believe rubbing Abe’s nose will bring good luck. And yes. Of course, I rubbed his nose, followed by squirts of hand sanitizer. I could not resist. Who doesn’t want a bit of luck in their lives?
Rub my nose for luck
Inside the tomb are several bronze statues of Lincoln depicting the various stages and roles of Lincoln during his professional life. The hallways conclude at the burial chamber, the final resting place of Abraham Lincoln, Mary, and three of their four sons.
For people unable to visit the tomb, there is a YouTube virtual tour online here.
A close up Pink flowering Dogwood tree in bloom at Abe’s gravesite
Pink flowering Dogwoods decorate either side of Abraham Lincoln’s tomb
Love these tree tunnel roads
After our visit, I came to the conclusion that I liked how the museum presented the information. It made history come alive, especially the exhibit of the children playing in Abe’s office, the assassination portrayal, and the slave auction scene. It also made history less academic and accessible to more people through the multi-media stories told.