We had a short two-hour drive from Jefferson City to Hannibal Caves and Campground on October 6, 2023. I was eager to explore Mark Twain’s childhood stomping grounds, which inspired his books, The Adventures of Tom Sawyer and The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn.

But first we checked out the Marina and Riverfront Park where a memorial to Mark Twain stood and the American Serenade had docked.

We noticed a discernible difference between the Mississippi that flowed by Hannibal and what we saw in St. Louis. Here the water looked cleaner, not as muddy, and the river banks were prettier to look at, not as industrial.

Before we gorged on all things, Mark Twain, we visited the 125-year-old Rockcliffe Mansion that served as J. J. Cruikshank’s family home from 1900 until his death in 1924.

What’s unusual about this historic home is that, except for caretakers who lived there for several years, the family had abandoned it for 43 years. J. J. Cruikshank, a lumber baron, spared not a penny to decorate and furnish the 12,500 square foot home with lavish amenities, art, and possessions, much of which remain intact. The family of six moved into the mansion during the year 1900.

Upon Cruikshank’s death, the remaining family members moved next door to smaller accommodations. They left most everything behind until the mid-1960s when city officials ruled the building an eyesore and slated it for demolition.

Three local families realized the value of the mansion, formed a corporation, purchased the property in 1967, and saved it from destruction. The corporation cleaned up the house and surrounding property and opened it to the public for tours.

In June 2005, Rick Rose purchased the mansion and had grand plans for further restoration, adding tours, and offering other activities at the property. Falling on hard times, the property fell into bankruptcy five years later.

Through the bankruptcy court, Warren Bitnner, an attorney from Miami, and Juan Ruiz, a banker, bought the house for $567,000 in April 2010. Bittner and Ruiz continue to operate the tours and renovate the mansion as funds are available. Included on their reno list is rebuilding the original porches that once wrapped around the building on either side of the entrance.

Fancy a stay in the Rockcliffe Mansion? The Bed-and-Breakfast offers a handful of rooms to choose from. Amenities include a free tour of the house upon check-in at 4:00 pm, a wine and cheese reception from 5:00 pm to 6:00 pm, and a three-course home-cooked breakfast at 8:30 am. Coffee and tea are available at 7:30 am. Enjoy a private bathroom, room air conditioners, and radiator heating while gazing out at the expansive views of the city and river. Book rooms from March 15 through November 15.

Next Up: Finally, all things Mark Twain and a riverboat cruise.

Safe Travels