2023 Fall Adventure Episode 10: Herbert Hoover Presidential Library Museum and Boyhood Historic Site

It’s a new year, and a new start on this old blog here. We published the final Hannibal, Missouri episode, on November 24, 2024. I thought I could at least finish our 2023 Fall Adventure before the end of 2024. Ha, that’s what I get for relying on wishful thinking.

I hope this post gets me back into updating the blog more often. Perhaps I’ll finish up 2023 in say two to three weeks and then start on 2024. A few months behind is fine with me. An entire year, not so much.

A Strange Site to See

Something strange happened during our drive from Hannibal, Missouri, to Oxford, Iowa, on October 10, 2023. As we drove in the slow lane, a tire and wheel shot across the road in front of us. Yikes! Was the van in the fast lane going to crash?

The tire and wheel bounced toward the shoulder, down a small embankment, into a farmer’s field, and slowed to a stop upright. The van, missing the right front wheel and tire, somehow pulled to a stop on the shoulder as if nothing happened.

As we drove past, I noticed several passengers in the van, including children. Whew! That could have been a disaster. I still wonder how I would react if I had been driving. “Hey, Jon. When did you last check the lug nuts?”

Sleepy Hollow Campground

The rest of our trip to Sleepy Hollow filled us with bucolic vistas of a rolling landscape dotted with farms. We couldn’t put our Solid Steps down (we hate dislike those steps) at the first assigned site, so the manager gave us a better one. The curb side of the trailer looked out over the lake where runner and Muscovy ducks entertained us as they paddled and waddled about. Yeah! More space and a beautiful view.

A Sleepy Hollow sunset

We opted for a dinner out, not wanting to cook after the long drive. In Tiffin, the neighboring town, we found Cheddars, where we had a fine meal. On our way home, we hit low-lying fog, which was unexpected, but it failed to deter us from finding our way back to the trailer.

Herbert Hoover Presidential Library and Museum and Boyhood Historic Site

The next morning, we drove into West Branch to see the Hoover Presidential Museum and Boyhood Historic Site. We started with the boyhood historic site.

Herbert Hoover was born on August 10, 1874, in West Branch Iowa. His father Jesse Hoover was of German, Swiss, and English ancestry. He worked as a blacksmith and owned a farm implement store. His mother, Hulda Randall Minthorn, was raised in Norwich, Ontario, Canada. Both Jesse and Hulda were Quakers.

Jesse’s and Hulda’s combo sleeping quarters/dining room/playroom.
Beds for Theodore, Herbert, and May

Hoover and his siblings—Theodore, an older brother, and May, a younger sister—became orphans when their mother died in 1884. His father had died earlier in 1880.

Tight quarters in the combo kids’ bedroom and sewing room
Pantry and kitchen gadgets
The site of the well used for water in the Hoover cottage
Replica of Jesse Hoover’s Blacksmith Shop
Theodore’s and Herbert’s nicknames were Tad and Bertie, respectfully.

We found the museum building quite small compared to other presidential museums we had seen.

Welcome to the museum
I waited for the school group to finish their tour before entering the galleries.

Hoover moved to Oregon to live with his aunt and uncle in November 1885, where he worked on the homestead and attended school.

Stanford University accepted Hoover in their pioneer class of 1891, where he earned a degree in geology in 1895 and later began a career as a geologist.

Work took Hoover around the world

Hoover traveled throughout the world for work, often with Lou at his side after their marriage in 1899. They met at Stanford University and lived in London, England, between 1914 and 1917.

The Great War display

When WWI began in August 1914, Hoover lead the Commission for Relief in Belgium (CRB), which earned him the title “Great Humanitarian” for feeding up to 10 million civilians during the war in Belgium and France.

The CRB and flour sack display

The CRB, established in October 1914 under Hoover’s direction, provided food relief to Belgium and France between 1914 and 1919. The commission sent 5.7 million tons of food, including flour packed in cotton sacks.

One of many decorated flour sacks received by Hoover

To prevent Germany from commandeering the food, the CRB kept close tabs on the food and the empty flour sacks. They distributed these sacks to professional schools, sewing workrooms, convents, and individual artists. This provided jobs for the women who made clothing, accessories, pillows, bags, and other items, which were then sold to raise money for the war effort.

After the war, several people expressed their gratitude to Hoover by sending painted flour sacks and other products to Hoover. The museum claims their collection of these items is the largest in the world.

The Hoovers moved to DC in 1917 when Herbert accepted his appointment as head of Food and Drug Administration.

Modern conveniences hit the market
Depiction of response to the Mississippi Valley Flood of 1927
First intercity transmission of video imagery on April 27, 1927, a precursor to Zoom

Hoover served as president from March 4, 1929 to March 4, 1933. He signed legislation on June 25, 1929, to build Boulder Dam, which was later renamed Hoover Dam. The Stock Market Crash on October 29, 1929, and subsequent Great Depression plagued Hoover’s presidency for the rest of his four-year term.

Hoover’s response to the depression included the repatriation of approximately one million Mexican Americans, even though some had been born in the United States.

Not the typical oval office seen in presidential museums

After Hoover’s presidency, Harry S. Truman and Dwight D. Eisenhower assigned him to chair the Hoover Commission. The commission’s purpose was to make the government more efficient.

Although praised for his humanitarian and other public service, he is often ranked below average as a president. The 2024 American Political Science Association (APSA) survey ranked Hoover at 36 among all presidents.

Any support he earned during his campaign for office plummeted after his response to the Stock Market Crash and the Great Depression. Yet his humanitarian efforts before his presidency and his work on the Hoover Commission afterward earned him plenty of accolades.

Although Hoover wasn’t one for accolades, the world insisted on thanking and honoring him throughout the years.

What is it about the power of the presidency that can make or break a political career? How can someone work so diligently to save 10-million European people from starvation, and ten years later order the repatriation of Mexicans? Did Hoover dream up that idea on his own? Or did he cave under pressure from other politicians, the media, and outcries from the public to blame someone, anyone, even if they were citizens?

Maybe someday I’ll find the answers to my questions, yet at this point I doubt it. And maybe that’s the problem with the way things are in this country today. Few of us, as a society, take the time to dig deep and find the answers to questions like these. And if we don’t learn from mistakes made in the past, it’s likely we’ll repeat them, as the saying goes.

About the First Lady, Lou Henry Hoover (March 29, 1874 – January 7, 1944)

Raised in California before it became a state, Lou became the first woman to receive a degree in geology from Stanford University. She led the Girl Scouts of the USA from 1922 to 1925 and 1935 to 1937, was an advocate for women’s athletics, and supported women’s rights and independence. She spoke and wrote Mandarin and had a command of Latin.

Portrait of Lou Henry Hoover

Although she refused to accept reporters’ invitations for an interview, she gave regular radio addresses. Lou also dedicated more of her time as first lady to her volunteer work, shunning the White House hostess role.

1920’s – 1930’s Elegant fashions for women

From the small amount of research I’ve read about Lou Hoover, she seems like a person to admire. Maybe some day I’ll read more about her.

Up next: A day trip to the National Czech and Slovakia Museum in Cedar Rapids, and a day in the Amana Colonies.

Safe Travels

2023 Fall Adventure Episode 9: Hannibal, Missouri’s Sodalis Nature Reserve and River Cruise

Mark Twain Riverboat Company

A river cruise is always on our list of what to do whenever we are near water. Add in a narrative of the history behind the sights on shore and we’re on board.

Cruising on the Mississippi

The Mark Twain Riverboat Co. is a family-owned business founded in 1997. They took us on a unique riverboat cruise on the Mighty Mississippi River. They pointed out Pearl Island, also known as Glasscock Island on the Ohio side of the river. Apparently, it was once considered part of Hannibal, Missouri.

One of the islands mentioned in text

We passed Shuck Island and Tower Island, which Mark Twain called Jackson’s Island in his book Adventures of Huckleberry Finn, got up close to the bridge, and gazed up at the Rockcliffe Mansion, and lighthouse from the river.

Another island mentioned in text
The boat will not go if the water is too low
Rockcliffe Mansion
Mark Twain Memorial Lighthouse
Property along the river

The barges are what amazed me the most on the river. During our boat cruise in St. Louis, we learned the newer barges measure up to 209 feet by 50 feet and can hold up to nearly 3,000 tons of cargo, while the older barges are 195 feet by 35 feet. The largest bulk item transported upstream is petroleum shipped from the oil fields in Texas and Louisiana. Various grains are shipped downstream to New Orleans and transferred to ocean vessels.

Barges with the Mark Twain Memorial Bridge in the background
I couldn’t get enough of the barges

According to Iowa DOT, one barge is the equivalent of 16 rail cars or 70 large semis/tractor trailers. No wonder oil producers and farmers depend on the Mississippi River barges to get their products to market.

This photo shows how the barges connect together

The Mark Twain Riverboat Cruise offers two daily cruises: a one-hour sightseeing cruise, and a two-hour evening cruise with dinner and entertainment. Keep in mind that if the water level is significantly higher or lower than ten feet, it could put a crimp in the ship’s schedule.

One of the murals in town

When planning our trip to Missouri, I had contemplated taking the American or Viking River Cruise up the Mississippi. I’m glad we toured on our own by land. We spent days exploring Hannibal instead of the few hours the big cruise lines offer at any one stop. Maybe someday we’ll take a Viking River cruise in Europe. For now, we’ll cruise on land.

Lover’s Leap Park and Overlook

The narrator on the riverboat cruise pointed out this outcropping atop a bluff on the south side of town. The five-acre park is called Lover’s Leap and has great views of the river and town. A plaque details the legend behind Lover’s Leap.

Lover’s Leap bluff
View from atop Lover’s Leap bluff

One version of the legend asserts the daughter of the Fox’s tribe and an Illini brave were deeply in love. After multiple warnings to stop seeing each other, they were discovered together by the Fox chief one night on the cliff. Although the couple leaped from the cliff and survived the jump, it is not recommended that others take the plunge. A different version of the legend claims a more dire ending.

Rockcliffe Mansion in the middle of the photo.

Another plaque placed by the Continental Cement Company in May 2002, dedicated a lighted American flag as a remembrance to September 11, 2001.

Town of Hannibal
Mark Twain Memorial bridge
View of Quincy, Illinois
Pusher boat with barges

Sodalis Nature Preserve

The Sodalis Nature Preserve was an interesting find. Not only does this 200-acre park preserve the bat population, it also provides recreation for the community.

The paved Sodalis trail has plenty of vegetation
Abundance of blooming shrubs line the trail
Grasses and reeds along the trail

This limestone mine, which was closed for about 50 years, is now home to approximately 1/3 of all known Myotis Sodalist bats, also known as Indiana bats, and has the distinct honor as the largest hibernation site for a rare bat. Endangered gray bats, northern long-eared bats, and other species also call the mine home during hibernation.

Pond reflections
Good or bad, I love thistles

Soon after the bat discovery in 2012, the city acquired the mine site and installed gates at 33 mine entrances. Then they developed the surrounding area as a park with walking, hiking, and biking trails for visitors.

This colorful plant pleaded to have its photo taken
Evan’s trail led to a place to view the bat emergence

Visitors will find a 2-mile fully paved loop trail that connects to the Bear Creek Trail. There is also a viewable amphitheater to watch the nightly bat emergence from mid-April to the end of September.

The top tube allows bats to emerge at night while the gate keeps them safe from mankind, who may have nefarious intentions in mind.
Black-eyed Susans?

Mark Twain Memorial Lighthouse

The Mark Twain Memorial Lighthouse beckoned us from the mansion, the riverboat cruise, and other parts of the city. While Tom and the gang scrambled up the side of the cliff, we had the luxury of climbing 244 steps to the top.

Mark Twain Memorial Lighthouse

Once there, we noticed a road could have taken us all the way with only a short trail to the lighthouse. That was fine with me. I prefer steps anyway. Jon’s not much of a fan, although he followed my lead. I eyeballed the trail to the parking area at the top and had to see where it went. And the views around the structure and along the trail were as spectacular as those on Lover’s Leap.

Although the lighthouse is illuminated at night, it is not used for navigation
Mark Twain Memorial Bridge
View of Quincy, Illinois

The Lighthouse park encompasses 10-acres at the top of Cardiff Hill. This is a place where you can imagine the likes of Tom Sawyer, Huckleberry Finn, and the gang hanging out and exploring.

Fried-egg fungi
Pusher boat

The original lighthouse was built in 1935 as a memorial to Mark Twain on his 100th birthday. After a windstorm destroyed it in 1960, it was rebuilt in 1963.

Watch your step and use the handrails
Road back to town

Becky Thatcher’s Diner

We couldn’t leave town without breakfast at Becky Thatcher’s Diner. Themed diners can turn out a hit or a miss. Lucky for us, the delicious corned beef hash told us Becky’s diner was a hit.

Becky Thatchers Diner

We enjoyed our visit to Hannibal, Missouri, and are glad we stopped and explored for the few days we were there. I admire and commend the City of Hannibal for preserving the history, folklore, and nature of the place. The community has much more to offer than what a cheap tourist trap might have presented.

Next Up: Herbert Hoover Presidential Library in West Branch, Iowa

Safe Travels

2023 Fall Adventure Episode 8: Hannibal Missouri, Mark Twain Boyhood Home and Museum

October 8, 2023. Finally, time to explore Mark Twain’s Hannibal, Missouri. I fell in love with my fellow Sagittarius writer at an early age. About the time in my life when I was looking for people to admire, I read the Adventures of Tom Sawyer and Adventures of Huckleberry Finn. Learning more about the author convinced me that Samuel L. Clemens must be on my list of most admired people.

The town has gone all out to honor their favorite son. His name graces business signs, a statue in the harbor honors him as a steamboat captain, a museum details his life story. And homes where he and his friends lived extend the museum experience.

The Boyhood Home

The Boyhood Home was built in 1843 or 1844. The Clemens family lived there until they moved above Grant’s Drug Store.

The Boyhood Home where children can try their hand at painting the fence.
Timeline of the Clemens family in Hannibal, Missouri

A bit of history reveals the John Marshall Clemens family of five moved to Hannibal, Missouri, in November 1839. Eight years later, Samuel’s father died from pneumonia, leaving the family in poverty. Samuel left school to work and help keep the family afloat. He hopped from one job to another, getting fired or quitting work he found boring. These included stints as a grocery, bookstore, and apothecary clerk; he also worked for a blacksmith and delivered papers for the Hannibal Gazette.

Life on the Mississippi and The Prince and the Pauper books by Mark Twain
Twain with his characters

Eighteen months after his father’s death, his mother Jane apprenticed the boy to Joseph P. Ament, the new publisher of the Gazette. Typesetting suited Samuel better than his previous forays in the working world. Later, he worked for his brother Orion on his paper and started writing articles and short stories. And the rest, as one might say, is history I’ll leave to readers to explore on their own. The photos below are but a few of many I took on our self-guided tour.

Sample of interpretations in the museum and homes
Twain stood 5′ 8″, by his account
The parlor room
The boys’ room

The Blankenship Home (Huck Finn)

The following photos are of the rebuilt Blankenship Home, identified as the home of Huck Finn. The original Blankenship house was demolished in 1911. Chris Coons owned the land in 1998 and donated the property with a stipulation the home would be reconstructed.

Rebuilt Huck Finn house

The Parham family funded the reconstruction. The builder used the original plans and materials as a guide, making modifications to correspond to a photo that showed the original house was framed and not built as a log cabin.

The house was completed and dedicated on May 26, 2007.

The Hawkins Home (Becky Thatcher)

The following photo is of the Elijah Hawkins’ house where his daughter Laura (Becky Thatcher) lived. The home went through a full restoration in 2013 and in 2020, a new interpretation was installed.

Becky Thatcher House

Justice of the Peace Office

Inside Judge John Marshall Clemens’ justice of the peace office

Grant’s Drug Store

Hard times hit the Clemens family in 1846, so they moved above Grant’s Drug Store. Samuels’ father died in one of the rooms on March 24, 1847. Mrs. Sarah Marshall Mahan gave the building to the city in 1955. (Imagine living in a house where Twain slept) The building opened for tours to the public in 1959 after extensive rehabilitation. Additional restoration took place in 2017 and the museum installed a new interpretation in 2020.

Grant’s Drug Store, also known as the Pilaster House
Grant’s Drug Store building
Apothecary
Upstairs dining area
Upstairs office

Mark Twain Museum

The museum holds a collection of Norman Rockwell paintings, books, and artifacts.

Mark Twain’s Orchestrelle
Mark Twain’s Pen

In 1935, Heritage Press commissioned Norman Rockwell to illustrate special editions of The Adventures of Tom Sawyer and The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn

Norman Rockwell paintings

Rockwell completed preliminary sketches of the paintings before he visited Hannibal. He had to redraw one of those sketches because it did not match the actual house.

This photo shows a roof and shutters, but this did not match the actual house.
So, Rockwell revised the sketch to include a drain pipe and eliminated the shutters.
Twain converses with his characters

Several years ago, I visited Twain’s home in Hartford, Connecticut, and gained a deeper understanding of the man in his prime. We’ve seen the replica cabin near Angels Camp, California, where Twain gathered material for his short story, “Jumping Frog of Calaveras County” and the semi-autobiographical book Roughing It. And in Virginia City, Nevada, Mark Twain popped up as an editor of the Territorial Enterprise.

On this day, I gained a deeper understanding of the town, the boy, and the friends and neighbors that inspired many of the stories Twain wrote. One of these days I hope to visit Elmira, New York, where Twain and his family spent many summers with his sister-in-law’sfamily.

Up Next: A riverboat cruise, a lighthouse, lover’s leap, and a walk through Sodalis Nature Preserve

Safe Travels

2023 Fall Adventure Episode 7: Rockcliffe Mansion in Hannibal, Missouri

We had a short two-hour drive from Jefferson City to Hannibal Caves and Campground on October 6, 2023. I was eager to explore Mark Twain’s childhood stomping grounds, which inspired his books, The Adventures of Tom Sawyer and The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn.

But first we checked out the Marina and Riverfront Park where a memorial to Mark Twain stood and the American Serenade had docked.

Mark Twain as a Steamboat Captain

We noticed a discernible difference between the Mississippi that flowed by Hannibal and what we saw in St. Louis. Here the water looked cleaner, not as muddy, and the river banks were prettier to look at, not as industrial.

American Serenade in dock

Before we gorged on all things, Mark Twain, we visited the 125-year-old Rockcliffe Mansion that served as J. J. Cruikshank’s family home from 1900 until his death in 1924.

Rockcliffe Historic Mansion

What’s unusual about this historic home is that, except for caretakers who lived there for several years, the family had abandoned it for 43 years. J. J. Cruikshank, a lumber baron, spared not a penny to decorate and furnish the 12,500 square foot home with lavish amenities, art, and possessions, much of which remain intact. The family of six moved into the mansion during the year 1900.

Welcome to the Mansion
Marble fireplace
Restored chair
Unrestored chair
Thermostat

Upon Cruikshank’s death, the remaining family members moved next door to smaller accommodations. They left most everything behind until the mid-1960s when city officials ruled the building an eyesore and slated it for demolition.

Although teenagers often entered the home during its abandonment, they left the bookcases and books untouched. Typical teenagers.
Sitting room with desk
Marble sink counter
Tiffany lamp
Walk-in closet with dresses from the era.
I thought this bedroom had a safari feel to it.
Modern conveniences
Sink and linen closet
Dresser with mirror and trunk in the closet
Card room
Billiards room
Sitting room
Servant’s room with sink
Morocco came to mind when I entered this room.
Formal dining room

Three local families realized the value of the mansion, formed a corporation, purchased the property in 1967, and saved it from destruction. The corporation cleaned up the house and surrounding property and opened it to the public for tours.

Antique stove
Icebox
How far phones have come in 100 years

In June 2005, Rick Rose purchased the mansion and had grand plans for further restoration, adding tours, and offering other activities at the property. Falling on hard times, the property fell into bankruptcy five years later.

Another bedroom and bath
Another closet
Detail of bedspread

Through the bankruptcy court, Warren Bitnner, an attorney from Miami, and Juan Ruiz, a banker, bought the house for $567,000 in April 2010. Bittner and Ruiz continue to operate the tours and renovate the mansion as funds are available. Included on their reno list is rebuilding the original porches that once wrapped around the building on either side of the entrance.

Stained glass window on double staircase landing
Closeup of window and table articles
Back and side of mansion with porte-cochere

Fancy a stay in the Rockcliffe Mansion? The Bed-and-Breakfast offers a handful of rooms to choose from. Amenities include a free tour of the house upon check-in at 4:00 pm, a wine and cheese reception from 5:00 pm to 6:00 pm, and a three-course home-cooked breakfast at 8:30 am. Coffee and tea are available at 7:30 am. Enjoy a private bathroom, room air conditioners, and radiator heating while gazing out at the expansive views of the city and river. Book rooms from March 15 through November 15.

View of city and Mississippi River

Next Up: Finally, all things Mark Twain and a riverboat cruise.

Safe Travels