2023 Summer Solstice Adventure La Paz California Sur – Part 4

We come to the final part of the La Paz series. This one might make you hungry. One of the most enjoyable parts of traveling to a new destination is the abundance of food available to sample and taste. And we had plenty to choose from during our stay.

Restaurants

Draft House at the Oakland Airport is our go to eatery when leaving town in the wee hours of the morning. They have made to order egg dishes and other offerings which taste like real food, unlike the preprepared cellophane wrapped grab and go collections.

Our first meal in La Paz consisted of tacos and beer at Restaurantes Bizmark. Seafood is their specialty.

While we feasted on more tacos and beer at La Parrilla Esterito Grill & Beer Taqueria, the mosquitos feasted on my legs. When in La Paz, eat tacos, drink beer, and fight off mosquitos. Instead of, “where’s the beef,” I had to ask, “where’s the veggies?”

There was only one stall at the Farmer’s Market with veges and fruit, so we shared a few empanadas. Perhaps we arrived too late.

The Aramburo Supermercado was where we bought most everything we needed to prepare and cook meals at the house. We might not have found what we needed the first time we walked the aisles, but success was ours on the second or third time around the store.

We passed Las Chascas de Maria Elotes several times on our walks. They often had a long line out the door late in the evening. We thought they sold ice cream or yogurt. Instead, they offered savory corn and fries and chips topped with bacon, grasshoppers, or other unique crunchy things.

At La Peregrina Restaurantes I was hankering for something refreshing to drink so I tried a mojito. Mojito is now my go-to drink. Even the virgin version is cooling and satisfying. They also served up delicious food and deserts to die for.

Arriving early for our dinner at Casamarte we felt special sitting on the porch as we looked out onto the ocean and sunset beyond the malecon.

The service at Los 32 Sabores was superbly attentive, and the food held its own with the competition.

One late afternoon, we clamored to leave the house for an early dinner even though the heat and humidity had not yet dissipated. We found El Zarape’s with advertised air conditioning and an open sign on the door. We ducked inside to cool off and enjoyed a pleasant meal and great service.

It was a battle picking between La Mentita and El Azteca for breakfast. El Azteca won the debate. We’ll have to visit La Mentita next time.

Chilaquiles, omelets, baguettes, hot cakes, juices, and blended drinks and plenty more gave us plenty to choose from. I enjoyed the fruit plate.

For a group of foodies like us, La Paz offered plenty of places to choose from. We didn’t eat all our meals out, though. Jon, Bailey, and Kevin took turns showing off their culinary skills and supplementing our restaurant meals while I washed dishes.

Captain’s Sunset Sail

Our 2-1/2 hour catamaran tour of the bay on July 4 took off from the Marina Palmira in front of Captains’ Sunset Bar. Included were Margaritas, rum punch, and other drinks along with plenty of fruit and tasty appetizer bites prepared onboard to enjoy with our drinks, while lively music played through the speakers.

The best part was meeting the other guests. Many of them were expats from the US who are spending their retirement days in the city or part timers with a plan to do the same.

One woman told us about the different developments on shore. One such story was of a structure that looked half finished. Apparently, construction stopped midway when the building conflicted with the design of the road. So, there it sits. A hunk of concrete. Sullying the view of the beach.

The quiet, relaxing atmosphere grew in excitement when dolphins came to play around the catamaran.

At the end of the cruise, the crew invited us back to Captain’s Sunset Bar where they served dinner for free to all in attendance. Drinks were extra, of course. The celebration was in honor of the United States Independence Day. A classic rock band played live and a whole lot of dancing ensued. It was an event they do every year as a thank you to the locals, yachties, and expats.

And that concludes our time in La Paz. We braved the heat and made the best of it by staying cool in the pool in the afternoon, joining the festivities on the Malecon in the evenings, or relaxing in the air-conditioned house we rented. And of course, filling ourselves with wonderful Mexican food and deserts. If we return in the future, I think a spring or fall adventure would be in order.

Up Next: Our Fall 2023 Adventure back to Missouri in our new trailer.

Safe Travels

2023 Summer Solstice Adventure La Paz, California Sur – Part 2

We continue our visit to La Paz with a look at the sights we saw around town, plus a guided hike, breakfast, and beach time.

Sights Seen About Town

Murals and architecture, both new and old, gave us a glimpse into the history and lives of the locals. Walking, as our main mode of transportation around town, allowed us an up-close view of the newly renovated or constructed buildings and structures in their last days of decay and everything in between. Each building—some enhanced with painted murals—provided unique personalities my camera lens could not ignore.

Desert, sea, and land
Roadrunner house
I see you and you see me
Pajaro
Hoo, hooo, hoooot
Watch out for the fangs
Abandoned shoes . . . broken strap?
These shoes look perfectly fine.

The contrast between daylight and nighttime tells a whole different story about the the building.

Day into . . .
Night
Oh, the music and dance and stories told here over the past century
No activities this night
Our Lady of Peace Cathedral
Moon over cathedral
Day . . .
and Night
Tattoo anyone?
Museo de Arte de la Ciudad de La Paz at night
Quinceanera pose
Moon over hacienda
Did I mention the metal basket on the left is where trash goes for pickup?
How did the stone mason make those cutouts?
Loved these colors together
Silly Bailey
The peeling paint and sidewalk debris of long-closed businesses often contrasted with the brightly colored storefronts and swept sidewalks.

This was an interesting little park and a great place to stop and cool off in the shade near the water feature. Coro en Armonia (Choir in Harmony) was created by Benito Ortega Vargas. Each mask appears to sing a different note of the musical scale.

Piedras y Pajaros
Do, re, mi, fa, sol, la, ti, do.
Jon and Kevin enjoy the coolness of Piedras y Pajaros
Smile, You’re on Candid Camera.

If we stood long enough under one of these cameras, we could see the face rotate. I pictured someone in a basement somewhere watching a bank of monitors for any trouble that might pop up.
A house squished between two commercial buildings.
The news stand was closed when we walked by
It looked like this building was under renovation.
A private room in Villa Lorena is listed as an Airbnb property
Looks like this house has a courtyard off the sidewalk
Art meets decay

If it hadn’t been so hot, I could have walked for hours taking photos of unique and interesting sites.

Rancho San Lorenzo Guided Hike and Organic Breakfast

We got up early for our Rancho San Lorenzo Guided Hike and Organic Breakfast at a working ranch. A rental car—picked up the night before—was required for us to make the trip to the tip of the peninsula north of La Paz. At 9:00 am, we piled out of the car to meet our guide Eduardo (Lalo) Mendez, from Guadalajara.

View of ranch house from the trail

The 1,000-acre desert ranch and preserve are populated with wild and tamed animals alike. Siting between the Coyote Mountains and the Sea of Cortez, there’s plenty of diverse terrain for the animals to roam. Rabbits, foxes, deer, and the occasional mountain lion have the run of the place, while goats, donkeys, horses, chickens, and ostriches are safe, cozy, and well-fed in their respective pens or corrals.

Vultures cooling their jets

Lalo, gave us an option for a strenuous hike or one less strenuous. We agreed the less strenuous would be best, since I was still nursing my broken wrist and wearing the brace just in case I might fall. Along the trail, Lalo would stop to point out rock formations in the mountains and hills, small caves, and the local flora and fauna, or talk about the history.

Desert flora is tricky. From far away it looks dead.
Up close its leafing and budding out
Even delicate florals survive in the desert
Steer clear of the cholla. It’s everywhere and known to jump and hang on.

We spied a variety of birds in the sky or resting on desert cactus. The vultures were most interesting as they found their perch atop the spikey Mexican cardón, or elephant cactus. Lalo was quick to tell us these saguaro look-alikes are another species entirely. The cardón can grow double the height and weight compared to their cousins to the north and live nearly twice as long.

Paper bark

We stopped to rest and hydrate at a mesa that overlooked the sea before turning back to the ranch house where breakfast waited for us.

There’s a cave up there
A sign the ocean is nearby
Palo Adán perhaps?
Donkeys eating breakfast
Barrel cactus
The cardóns are ready to bloom. Not sure what the orange flowers are.
“See how the nurse bush protects the cardón?”
The pads may look soft and fuzzy, they are not.

On the outdoor patio, fresh squeezed orange and guava juice and plates of fresh fruit (pineapple, papaya, mango, plantains, grapes, cantaloupe) was the first course of our colossal breakfast. Then came the creamy beans, eggs, machaca, toast, and handmade tortillas. It was the best breakfast ever after a hike. Oh, and to top it all off, they brought Jon a giant slice of chocolate cake for his birthday. We all helped him eat it.

Anyone ready for a hammock?
Beach storage palapa
View from our breakfast table
Owl face hill

One would think the guided hike and the breakfast were enough for the day. But no, there was more. Included with the hike was a trip to the beach. Two rancheros loaded up a trailer with a cabana, chairs, kayak, paddle board, and drove us along a dirt back road to the beach. We stayed a few hours sinking our toes in the sand, wading and swimming in the warm water, and watching the pelicans patrol above us.

Playa El Tecolote
Row, Kevin. Row.

Hikes and breakfast are not all Rancho San Lorenzo offers its guests. How about a morning horseback ride and breakfast, or a sunset horseback ride and dinner? There’s also a house that accommodates 12 people, or select the smaller one that accommodates 4.

Lalo and the gang

Up next: We have two more parts to wrap up our La Paz adventure. We’ll look at the art and history museums, an art walk, restaurants, and a sunset sail.

Safe Travels

2023 Summer Solstice Adventure La Paz, Baja California Sur – Part 1

A 13-day trip to La Paz, Baja California Sur? During the 2023 summer solstice? Were we crazy?

The promise of super-hot days could not deter us from accepting an invitation from our son, Kevin, and his partner, Bailey.

Waiting at Dublin/Pleasanton BART Station on our way to Oakland Airport for a flight to San Diego

The Flight

On June 22, 2023, we breezed through Cross Boarder Express (CBX) and Aeropuerto Internacional de Tijuana with Spanish-speaking Bailey leading the way and telling us what to do and when. Had Jon and I been traveling on our own, we might have ended up in La Paz, Bolivia, instead of Mexico.

A recording delivered safety instructions and announcements over the speakers in both Spanish and English during the nearly two-hour Volaris Airline flight. The flight attendants served us snacks and drinks and made us feel welcome. Be forewarned, Uber, or DiDi as it’s called in La Paz, can’t pick up arriving passengers at the airport. It’s either rent a car, take a taxi, or public transportation. We took a taxi because our accommodations were in a central location so we could walk most places.

The House

Turning on the air conditioning was the first order of business when we arrived at the house. The two-bedroom, two-bath home included a functioning kitchen, living and dining area. A courtyard in the back provided a pool, desert landscaping, mood lighting and gecko plaques on the brick wall. This was going to suit us just fine.

Our La Paz vacation home
Living area
Dining – kitchen to the left – bedroom entrances at the back
Don’t drink water from the tap – bottled water is for cooking and drinking.
The kitchen contained all the essentials for meal preparation and eating

The sounds of cooing doves serenaded us in the morning and throughout the day. While out by the pool we’d watch groups of female frigates with their white throats and males sporting a patch of red on their chest fly around in circles above us in the sky. Lizards popped out every once in a while, and Bailey saw a little gecko.

Staying cool in the pool

While in La Paz, we learned pretty quick to do as the locals do. Mornings are for working or exploring, afternoons are for resting and staying calm and cool. Reading while submerged in the pool became a daily favorite pastime.

The Malecon

On our first visit to the Malecon we found a sleepy and quiet atmosphere in the late afternoon. The ocean water lapped ashore in a lazy fashion. Few automobiles or trucks drove past. And it seemed like we had the street all to ourselves. We found a restaurant open with only a few other tables occupied and most of the staff standing around talking among themselves.

Plenty of seating to dine al fresco in the afternoon heat

Art aficionados will enjoy walking along the waterfront boardwalk where many of the city’s sculptures live. I tried my best to restrain my camera from capturing them all, which was my intent when I found the first one.

La Paz was so enamored with Jacque Cousteau, who led expeditions in the area, the government renamed an island after him, much to the displeasure of some. There are also at least two sculptures of him and other references made that honor him. In 2009, Isla Cerralvo became Isla Jacques Cousteau. He’s noted as calling the sea surrounding La Paz, “the world’s aquarium.”

Playful Jacques Cousteau

When the sun goes down, the breeze comes up, and the heat of the day subsides. This is when the Malecon comes alive no matter the day of the week. Patrons crowd into restaurants where the aroma of spiced grilled meat and other tasty bites waft from kitchens. Music blares from cars cruising along the road, causing a traffic jam, which the drivers seem to relish.

Kids and adults pedal rented carts or ride bicycles between the yellow bumpers and the curb. Families, teens, and grandparents, some with dogs, walk or jog along the concrete boardwalk, or find a bench to sit awhile. The temperature drops a few feet out on the pier, cooling our skin. And a few feet up on the top the kiosco we gain a different perspective of the scene.

Restaurant where we ate our first meal the day we arrived

On one night, music blared from the Kiosco del Malecon. It was a “rap off” contest and some of the performers were quite talented.

Kiosco de Malecon

The sculpture below commemorates when Queen Elizabeth and Prince Phillip visited La Paz as part of their official visit to Mexico on February 22, 1983. Apparently, the pearl in the queen’s crown came from La Paz, which had a thriving pearl industry until commercial divers depleted the oyster beds. And then by 1941, there were none.

City Lights from the pier
Before the crowds arrive

On another night, a game of rollerblade broomball was in progress. The players expressed their joy with lots of laughter and smiles.

Rollerblade broomball

On our last night in La Paz, we searched for something fun to do. So we rented two bikes and two carts and rode up and down most of the 3.5 miles of the Malecon. I felt like a little kid. With the warm wind in my face I pedaled along, dodging bicyclists and joggers, and stopping for pedestrians in crosswalks.

Yahoo!

Can you tell we had fun? The Malecon was one big family party for tourists and locals alike that energized me every night we joined the chaos.

Next up: A guided hike, breakfast, and beach time; a sunset sail; art and anthropology museums; sights seen about town; and restaurants. This will take two or three more parts.

Safe Travels