2023 Summer Solstice Adventure La Paz, California Sur – Part 2

We continue our visit to La Paz with a look at the sights we saw around town, plus a guided hike, breakfast, and beach time.

Sights Seen About Town

Murals and architecture, both new and old, gave us a glimpse into the history and lives of the locals. Walking, as our main mode of transportation around town, allowed us an up-close view of the newly renovated or constructed buildings and structures in their last days of decay and everything in between. Each building—some enhanced with painted murals—provided unique personalities my camera lens could not ignore.

Desert, sea, and land
Roadrunner house
I see you and you see me
Pajaro
Hoo, hooo, hoooot
Watch out for the fangs
Abandoned shoes . . . broken strap?
These shoes look perfectly fine.

The contrast between daylight and nighttime tells a whole different story about the the building.

Day into . . .
Night
Oh, the music and dance and stories told here over the past century
No activities this night
Our Lady of Peace Cathedral
Moon over cathedral
Day . . .
and Night
Tattoo anyone?
Museo de Arte de la Ciudad de La Paz at night
Quinceanera pose
Moon over hacienda
Did I mention the metal basket on the left is where trash goes for pickup?
How did the stone mason make those cutouts?
Loved these colors together
Silly Bailey
The peeling paint and sidewalk debris of long-closed businesses often contrasted with the brightly colored storefronts and swept sidewalks.

This was an interesting little park and a great place to stop and cool off in the shade near the water feature. Coro en Armonia (Choir in Harmony) was created by Benito Ortega Vargas. Each mask appears to sing a different note of the musical scale.

Piedras y Pajaros
Do, re, mi, fa, sol, la, ti, do.
Jon and Kevin enjoy the coolness of Piedras y Pajaros
Smile, You’re on Candid Camera.

If we stood long enough under one of these cameras, we could see the face rotate. I pictured someone in a basement somewhere watching a bank of monitors for any trouble that might pop up.
A house squished between two commercial buildings.
The news stand was closed when we walked by
It looked like this building was under renovation.
A private room in Villa Lorena is listed as an Airbnb property
Looks like this house has a courtyard off the sidewalk
Art meets decay

If it hadn’t been so hot, I could have walked for hours taking photos of unique and interesting sites.

Rancho San Lorenzo Guided Hike and Organic Breakfast

We got up early for our Rancho San Lorenzo Guided Hike and Organic Breakfast at a working ranch. A rental car—picked up the night before—was required for us to make the trip to the tip of the peninsula north of La Paz. At 9:00 am, we piled out of the car to meet our guide Eduardo (Lalo) Mendez, from Guadalajara.

View of ranch house from the trail

The 1,000-acre desert ranch and preserve are populated with wild and tamed animals alike. Siting between the Coyote Mountains and the Sea of Cortez, there’s plenty of diverse terrain for the animals to roam. Rabbits, foxes, deer, and the occasional mountain lion have the run of the place, while goats, donkeys, horses, chickens, and ostriches are safe, cozy, and well-fed in their respective pens or corrals.

Vultures cooling their jets

Lalo, gave us an option for a strenuous hike or one less strenuous. We agreed the less strenuous would be best, since I was still nursing my broken wrist and wearing the brace just in case I might fall. Along the trail, Lalo would stop to point out rock formations in the mountains and hills, small caves, and the local flora and fauna, or talk about the history.

Desert flora is tricky. From far away it looks dead.
Up close its leafing and budding out
Even delicate florals survive in the desert
Steer clear of the cholla. It’s everywhere and known to jump and hang on.

We spied a variety of birds in the sky or resting on desert cactus. The vultures were most interesting as they found their perch atop the spikey Mexican cardón, or elephant cactus. Lalo was quick to tell us these saguaro look-alikes are another species entirely. The cardón can grow double the height and weight compared to their cousins to the north and live nearly twice as long.

Paper bark

We stopped to rest and hydrate at a mesa that overlooked the sea before turning back to the ranch house where breakfast waited for us.

There’s a cave up there
A sign the ocean is nearby
Palo Adán perhaps?
Donkeys eating breakfast
Barrel cactus
The cardóns are ready to bloom. Not sure what the orange flowers are.
“See how the nurse bush protects the cardón?”
The pads may look soft and fuzzy, they are not.

On the outdoor patio, fresh squeezed orange and guava juice and plates of fresh fruit (pineapple, papaya, mango, plantains, grapes, cantaloupe) was the first course of our colossal breakfast. Then came the creamy beans, eggs, machaca, toast, and handmade tortillas. It was the best breakfast ever after a hike. Oh, and to top it all off, they brought Jon a giant slice of chocolate cake for his birthday. We all helped him eat it.

Anyone ready for a hammock?
Beach storage palapa
View from our breakfast table
Owl face hill

One would think the guided hike and the breakfast were enough for the day. But no, there was more. Included with the hike was a trip to the beach. Two rancheros loaded up a trailer with a cabana, chairs, kayak, paddle board, and drove us along a dirt back road to the beach. We stayed a few hours sinking our toes in the sand, wading and swimming in the warm water, and watching the pelicans patrol above us.

Playa El Tecolote
Row, Kevin. Row.

Hikes and breakfast are not all Rancho San Lorenzo offers its guests. How about a morning horseback ride and breakfast, or a sunset horseback ride and dinner? There’s also a house that accommodates 12 people, or select the smaller one that accommodates 4.

Lalo and the gang

Up next: We have two more parts to wrap up our La Paz adventure. We’ll look at the art and history museums, an art walk, restaurants, and a sunset sail.

Safe Travels

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